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Fixing stripped stud holes in rear spoiler by DLCLK87GT
Started on: 09-19-2011 11:52 AM
Replies: 11
Last post by: rogergarrison on 09-20-2011 03:30 PM
DLCLK87GT
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Report this Post09-19-2011 11:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for DLCLK87GTSend a Private Message to DLCLK87GTDirect Link to This Post
I’ve got an aftermarket spoiler, it looks just like the factory wing but it’s all 1 piece and fiberglass. 2 of the 4 holes for the studs are stripped and the other 2 aren't great so might as well fix them too.
What’s the best way to fix these?
I was thinking about opening up the existing holes, rough them up, then drilling a hole in the side of the stand and squirting in several oz’s of 2 part epoxy, let set for a couple days then drill and tap new holes. Or possibly put the studs in wrapped in 1 layer of teflon tape, then fill.
Or I could cut a large hole in the side and fill sold with fiberglass, fix hole, then drill & tap.
Are there better ways? I don’t want this to fly off at highway speed and kill somebody.
Again, wing and stands all 1 piece fiberglass. Thanks.
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Bloozberry
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Report this Post09-19-2011 12:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryDirect Link to This Post
It's a little out of focus, but here's what a customer's OEM wingstand looked like when he brought it to me:



I did as you've already suggested, roughened up the inside of the stand, and filled it with two part epoxy. Rather than drill and tap the new holes though, I put a thin amount of vaseline on the threads of the screws and then dipped them in the epoxy making sure it got well into the threads of the screw before finally sinking the screw into the wingstand. Basically casting the threads instead of tapping them... same diff. It worked well. Here's a pic part way through the process:

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Tha Driver
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Report this Post09-19-2011 03:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverDirect Link to This Post
Depending on how thick the fiberglass is, you might just get bigger coarse-thread screws & screw them in, or tap for bigger bolts (coarse thread is better). Or drill & put in nutserts. Another alternative would be to build up the entire base with several layers of fiberglass (grind with 24 grit first) & then drill & screw in the studs. Cutting it open is not the best way to go: you open a whole 'nother can of worms trying to fill in the hole in the side.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

[This message has been edited by Tha Driver (edited 09-19-2011).]

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DLCLK87GT
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Report this Post09-19-2011 03:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DLCLK87GTSend a Private Message to DLCLK87GTDirect Link to This Post
Maybe I should have posted these first; there’s no way to get to the back side of the holes....without making another one




the fiberglass thickness is about 1/2" and as you can see it needs a little work anyway. Maybe doing both will be best, fill with epoxy AND glass on a few layers. I'd rather not use larger studs as I'd have to drill larger holes in the deck lid. Unless i can find some studs with larger threads on one end only...hmmmm. Mabe do all 3?

[This message has been edited by DLCLK87GT (edited 09-19-2011).]

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Bloozberry
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Report this Post09-19-2011 04:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryDirect Link to This Post
I think I'd go with Tha Driver's suggestion and use nutserts (the all-metal kind that swage into themselves).
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Old Lar
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Report this Post09-19-2011 04:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Old LarSend a Private Message to Old LarDirect Link to This Post
I filled the holes with Liquid Nails then re drilled the holes.
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rogergarrison
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Report this Post09-19-2011 05:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
Liquid Nails prob works fine. Myself I fill the stripped area with epoxy or resin, then put the studs in while its still wet. Tape or be very carefull not to get any epoxy on the threads where your nuts are going. I let them set up overnite before mounting them. Thats how I mounted my side and hood scoops on my Coronet. I also do the same thing to mount studs on aftermarket ground effect parts that usually go on with 2 sided tape.
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Tha Driver
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Report this Post09-19-2011 08:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by DLCLK87GT:

Maybe I should have posted these first; there’s no way to get to the back side of the holes....without making another one


Yeah I got that which is why I suggested three ways to fix it without cutting into it. Can't hurt to squeeze some epoxy into the holes before doing some of my suggestions, though.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts
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Reallybig
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Report this Post09-20-2011 02:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ReallybigSend a Private Message to ReallybigDirect Link to This Post
If you go to a auto body shop, you should be able to buy automotive grade "nut-serts". They are like those drywall anchors that have a built in washer on one end, and expanding section to hold onto the back inaccessible side, and a nut that pulls it all together.

http://www.avdel-global.com...hreaded-inserts.html
Based on your pictures, these look like they could help.
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Tony Kania
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Report this Post09-20-2011 10:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Tony KaniaSend a Private Message to Tony KaniaDirect Link to This Post
Nut serts. When I did my TLG wing stands a few years back, I pulled out two of the studs on the wing. I decided to just insert the new nuts on all four studs, and epoxy them in. It has held up quite well, and I am able to remove or install my wing as many times as I like without worry of stripping the threads.

Tony
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DLCLK87GT
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Report this Post09-20-2011 11:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for DLCLK87GTSend a Private Message to DLCLK87GTDirect Link to This Post
My only concern it that the nutcerts would spin but they probably though of that when they designed them Ok I’m going to put a couple layers of glass on the bottom as it needs some fixin anyway, then epoxy in nutcerts. Thanks for the info guys, always a big help.
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rogergarrison
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Report this Post09-20-2011 03:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
I personally never found nut serts to be very reliable on their own. Automotive ones just sort of 'bell' out to hold them in. All it takes is a little rust or wear and they spin. I cant tell you how many roof racks, decklid racks, etc ive had to chisel or drill out in 40 years. If you use them, a little epoxy or gorilla glue sure wouldnt hurt...just dont get any on the threads. On metal cars and vans, I prefer going under the headliner and welding in nuts on the inside.
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