| | | quote | Originally posted by Tha Driver:
Here we go again....
Roger prefers to re-shoot the whole panel with clear to fix a spot the size of a quarter. I prefer to blend in the spot to save time & money on expensive clear. My blends DO NOT ever "dull out all around it". I also wet sand the whole panel with clear with 1000 instead of just scuffing it, if for some reason I'm re-painting a whole panel. I guess if you shortcut everything you can do a whole rear clip in a 1/2 hour....I can't. Of course most of the time the panel is already sanded & buffed. Lets see him scuff, re-clear, & then sand & buff the whole panel again in anywhere NEAR the amount of time I can blend the spot in.
Roger, you NEED to come down & WATCH me do it if it's the ONLY way you're EVER going to believe me!
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"
Custom Fiberglass Parts |
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Ill just have to take your word. Ive never seen anyone here do it I couldnt tell immediately.
My example Lincoln was already masked (just painted). I wet sanded the small spot. I lightly scuff sanded the whole hood Id just painted. I sprayed color (already had it) on the spot.
I sprayed 1/4 cup of new clear on the whole hood. I was done. Took me 30 minutes. I lost only the days drying time and maybe $5.00 for material. Turned out perfect. My way is not the short cut as you call it, yours is. Ive got a brand new $100,000 Jag with a scraped bumper corner. Im scuffing it, masking it, spraying color on the scuff and clearing the whole panel. This dealer specific tells me not to short cut his jobs as he dont want his customer coming back ever. He tells me (his words) " dont do any of that spotting in crap ". Ive done them for him for 20 years now.
Again we just have to agree to disagree. When someone here, or anywere for that matter, asks me a question in my field of expertise, I tell them how 'I' do it. Others may or may not do it the same way. I in no way tell anyone 'this is the ONLY way it can be done correctly '.
