Here's a little background.

I have an 86 GT that I converted to a six speed about three years ago that has been sitting for two years after the F40 ate itself. I finally bought a 6L to start my turbo Trans Am build which leaves me with the "stock" LS1 from my 2000 Trans Am. I have been wanting to put together an LS1 Fiero before I even had both cars. I pulled the engine and cradle from the Fiero a few weeks ago and plan to pull the LS1 from the Trans Am mid October after a few more track days. I have already purchased a new F40 transmission.

A few questions I have.

Will I need the stock Fiero engine wiring harness or flywheel for anything? I listed the Fiero engine locally yesterday and today someone wants to buy it if I provide the engine harness and flywheel.
Is there anything off of the Fiero engine that I would need that I need/should keep (I think I've seen the factory Fiero A/C compressor used)?
I know that Archie sells the conversion kit for the LS1 to F40 but does anyone else sell kits or adapters?
I also haven't been about to find any pictures of Archie's clutch adapter plate for the setup and was curious if it uses a pilot bearing or bushing.

Thanks for any help. I'm just trying to get somethings sorted out so that I can figure out which way I want to go with this setup.

I would love to hear more and see pictures of the fragged F40. I might even be interested in purchasing the carnage (I am about 4 hrs from you)

I have been working on an LS4/F40 swap for a while:
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum3/HTML/000123.html

You will not need anything from the 2.8 engine except the 203 and 500 connector ends of the harness. Not sure if the LS1 flywheel spacer plate is the same thickness as the 2.8 one, but if it is you might want to keep it, if it is not, then you might want to sell it in the mall.
You could try and reuse the AC and alternator or just use the components that come with the LS1 engine.
Only one who markets a LS(x) kit is Archie.
Once a few LS4/F40 swaps have been done that method could be adapted to the LS(x) family of engines with a thin adapter plate using the custom 142 tooth LS4/F40 flywheel and transmission mounted starter.

Indeed, a lot of people on here would love to know how you managed to destroy your F40. Pics or it didn't happen.

quote Originally posted by dobey: Indeed, a lot of people on here would love to know how you managed to destroy your F40. Pics or it didn't happen.

I let a friend drive the car to Cleveland, Ohio and back, about 5 hour round trip and he said that on the way back it wasn't driving the same. He park it at his house and when I went to pick it up it would not move until I finally gave it hell and what was seized together broke loose and I was able to limp it home. Found that all but about half a quart of fluid had leaked out of the input shaft. There for the trans must have gotten extremely hot and seized together when he parked it. I haven't torn it appart to see what exactly happened but that's what we are figuring.

quote Originally posted by starkmaster03: I let a friend drive the car to Cleveland, Ohio and back, about 5 hour round trip and he said that on the way back it wasn't driving the same. He park it at his house and when I went to pick it up it would not move until I finally gave it hell and what was seized together broke loose and I was able to limp it home. Found that all but about half a quart of fluid had leaked out of the input shaft. There for the trans must have gotten extremely hot and seized together when he parked it. I haven't torn it appart to see what exactly happened but that's what we are figuring.

OK. So it was unnoticed leaking seal around the axle or something then, that wasn't properly taken care of in time.

fieroguru pretty much said it as it is. Archie is the only one selling kits these days. Though if you're sticking with an F40 when you do the swap, there's less stuff you'll need to buy out of his F40 kit. Hopefully fieroguru and I can get our LS4/F40 builds don soon, and we'll have some on the road using that setup.

quote Originally posted by dobey: OK. So it was unnoticed leaking seal around the axle or something then, that wasn't properly taken care of in time. fieroguru pretty much said it as it is. Archie is the only one selling kits these days. Though if you're sticking with an F40 when you do the swap, there's less stuff you'll need to buy out of his F40 kit. Hopefully fieroguru and I can get our LS4/F40 builds don soon, and we'll have some on the road using that setup.

I had only put a few hundred miles on the car and there was never any fluid on the ground. Then my friend took it so I think it either started leaking or something happened while he had it. The leak was from the input shaft of the transmission which makes me wonder if it was caused by the adaptor plate not having a pilot bushing or bearing for the input shaft to rest on. The end of the shaft is floating in the air which would make it more asseptable to move under pressure.

Are you designing your adaptor plate to accept a pilot bearing or bushing?

quote Originally posted by starkmaster03: I had only put a few hundred miles on the car and there was never any fluid on the ground. Then my friend took it so I think it either started leaking or something happened while he had it. The leak was from the input shaft of the transmission which makes me wonder if it was caused by the adaptor plate not having a pilot bushing or bearing for the input shaft to rest on. The end of the shaft is floating in the air which would make it more asseptable to move under pressure. Are you designing your adaptor plate to accept a pilot bearing or bushing?

The LS4 and F40 share bell housing bolt pattern, so an adapter plate is not necessary. fieroguru made a custom aluminum flywheel out of aluminum that is the correct thickness for the LS4/F40 combination. I will probably do something similar. I think he is using a bushing for the input shaft, but am having a little trouble finding the relevant post in his thread at the moment.

quote Originally posted by fieroguru: I would love to hear more and see pictures of the fragged F40. I might even be interested in purchasing the carnage (I am about 4 hrs from you) I have been working on an LS4/F40 swap for a while: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum3/HTML/000123.html You will not need anything from the 2.8 engine except the 203 and 500 connector ends of the harness. Not sure if the LS1 flywheel spacer plate is the same thickness as the 2.8 one, but if it is you might want to keep it, if it is not, then you might want to sell it in the mall. You could try and reuse the AC and alternator or just use the components that come with the LS1 engine. Only one who markets a LS(x) kit is Archie. Once a few LS4/F40 swaps have been done that method could be adapted to the LS(x) family of engines with a thin adapter plate using the custom 142 tooth LS4/F40 flywheel and transmission mounted starter.

What are the 203 and 500 connectors and what do they connect too?
I was going to look into getting the F40 rebuild and see if there was a way to strengthen it up. I just had the Trans Am at the dyno this past weekend and it put down 495HP and 551 torque so I expect this won't be the last one I change but I'm always open to an offer.

quote Originally posted by starkmaster03: The leak was from the input shaft of the transmission which makes me wonder if it was caused by the adaptor plate not having a pilot bushing or bearing for the input shaft to rest on. The end of the shaft is floating in the air which would make it more asseptable to move under pressure. Are you designing your adaptor plate to accept a pilot bearing or bushing?

The input shaft is already supported by 2 bearings (vs. 1 on the RWD transmissions), so using a pilot bearing/bushing would be a bad idea.

quote Originally posted by fieroguru: The input shaft is already supported by 2 bearings (vs. 1 on the RWD transmissions), so using a pilot bearing/bushing would be a bad idea.

What he said. No transverse mount GM manual FWD transmission uses a pilot bushing, so using one would be a bad idea. The input shafts on a FWD GM trans use a roller bearing, using a pilot bushing, no matter how well aligned would put a side load on the input shaft & cause a failure of that roller bearing.

The only time you can use 3 bearings on one axis (shaft) is if you have all the bearing locations & bores on the same axis. Having the roller bearing on the input shaft is the equivalant to having 2 bearing on that shaft......adding a pilot bushing would put that roller bearing in a bind.

For most front engine rear wheel drive transmissions the input shaft has a ball bearing. Without a pilot bushing that input shaft would wiggle side to side. So you must use a pilot bushing in that type of application.

Archie

quote Originally posted by Archie: What he said. No transverse mount GM manual FWD transmission uses a pilot bushing, so using one would be a bad idea. The input shafts on a FWD GM trans use a roller bearing, using a pilot bushing, no matter how well aligned would put a side load on the input shaft & cause a failure of that roller bearing. The only time you can use 3 bearings on one axis (shaft) is if you have all the bearing locations & bores on the same axis. Having the roller bearing on the input shaft is the equivalant to having 2 bearing on that shaft......adding a pilot bushing would put that roller bearing in a bind. For most front engine rear wheel drive transmissions the input shaft has a ball bearing. Without a pilot bushing that input shaft would wiggle side to side. So you must use a pilot bushing in that type of application. Archie

I sent you a PM a few weeks go for a price quote put I haven't heard anything back. I'm curious if you've had a chance to look at it.

I'm sorry, I must have missed it. I'll find it & send you something via EMail.

Archie

quote Originally posted by starkmaster03: I sent you a PM a few weeks go for a price quote put I haven't heard anything back. I'm curious if you've had a chance to look at it.

quote Originally posted by Archie: I'm sorry, I must have missed it. I'll find it & send you something via EMail. Archie

I'll be looking forward to it.

I'll start posting some pictures as well as this two projects start moving along.

quote Originally posted by starkmaster03: I was going to look into getting the F40 rebuild and see if there was a way to strengthen it up.

I'm not sure if that would be the best route? To rebuild it (just the parts) may cost just as much as a new F40. You might be better off to buy another new unit and have it re-worked for strengthening. Then again, it may not need strengthening. It sounds like it failed from lack of oil. Even a strengthened unit will fail without oil. I would look close at anything that may have caused the input seal to fail. Maybe the clutch lost a rivet or something and became off balance? Maybe an adapter plate is being used that is not centering the crank and input shafts correctly?

quote Originally posted by 1fatcat: Maybe an adapter plate is being used that is not centering the crank and input shafts correctly?

That what I thought as well but according to the other posts I guess the G6 doesn't use a pilot bearing or bushing.