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1987 four banger trouble spots? by Tork
Started on: 09-03-2011 10:50 PM
Replies: 6
Last post by: ltlfrari on 09-05-2011 10:58 PM
Tork
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Report this Post09-03-2011 10:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TorkSend a Private Message to TorkDirect Link to This Post
Went and looked at a 1987 fiero today. It has the inline four in it. They're asking 800 for it. The interior is pretty rough, its leaking oil from the valve cover, but it seemed to run pretty alright. The e-brake didn't work, but I understand that is a common issue. I was wondering what else to look for as far as mechanical issues. Im very unfamiliar with these cars. I'm just wondering where all the weak spots are with these cars. Thank you very much
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Garrettpen98
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Report this Post09-03-2011 11:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Garrettpen98Send a Private Message to Garrettpen98Direct Link to This Post
Make sure it isn't burning coolant 2.5's are notorious for cracking cylinder heads
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kzelisko
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Report this Post09-04-2011 09:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for kzeliskoSend a Private Message to kzeliskoDirect Link to This Post
I have never heard of the cylinder heads on these motors having any tendencies to crack, being cast iron and all. They are pretty stout motors. By 87 most of the issues had been worked out. It will probably leak oil from just about everywhere, and the valve guides will probably leak. This is the newer style head on this motor, but it does not have the balancer unit like the 88's did, which was prone to failure. Trouble spots with the car, watch out for rust on the frame, the battery tray, and the trunk. The body panels on these cars are plastic and don't rust so it many times gets over looked. It is a 24 year old car so any standard maintenance stuff like suspension parts and brakes probably have degraded by this point. Expect to have little gremlins popping up frequently if you plan to daily drive it.
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solotwo
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Report this Post09-04-2011 10:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoDirect Link to This Post
New head design or not. They can crack. The head gaskets on all duke/tech 4 2.5's are prone to failing. My 88 did at 160,000. Some people do not understand what the warning lights/gauges mean and keep on driving. Rust, as mentioned before, under battery tray, Trunk pull back the carpet in both corners. Check the coolant tubes to see if they are bent or have scrap marks on them. Most so called "our best tech"'s don't know or don't care and lift the car up on the tubes! Check for alignment. These cars require a GOOD 4 wheel alignment. Check the rubber brake hoses that attach to the caliper. If soft and mushy, they need to be replaced. Check the color of the brake fluid. Dark is not good. Means some possible repairs ahead. Check the clutch fluid. Check the Fluid level. Headlights do they open and close? Check for leaks at the back of the fuel tank where the rubber hoses attach to the tank and the fuel line. Why? because the cat. converter is next to the area. As you know gas and hot cat dont mix.

Steve W.
NE Grand Rapids, MI
88 Coupe
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Fiero84Freak
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Report this Post09-05-2011 01:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero84FreakSend a Private Message to Fiero84FreakDirect Link to This Post
How many miles? If it's relatively high, like above 120,000, buy a spare coil (there's two of them on the '87-'88 DIS cars) if you buy the car. They're about $26 each from Autozone. While not as notorious as the L44 as having ignition issues, the later DIS duke cars can have a coil go out and it'll leave you stranded. A spare will allow you to swap out until the car fires.

All the above is good things to look out for. The valve cover leak is relatively common. It's very easy to service on the duke - maybe an afternoon job. They do hold up like a tank. Get all the gremlins sorted out, check what the others have mentioned, and it'll likely be good to go.

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mike-ohio
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Report this Post09-05-2011 09:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mike-ohioClick Here to visit mike-ohio's HomePageSend a Private Message to mike-ohioDirect Link to This Post
Like all Fiero’s the hose connecting the fuel pump to the line in the tank splits open and requires dropping the tank to replace. Mine went at 114K miles. If they sit for awhile they usually go out faster.

I’ve never replaced mine but the crank position sensors have been known to deteriorate and fall apart around 150K miles.

Temperature sensors are always something to check as well as the O2 sensor.

The 87 Duke also has a coolant line attached to the bottom of the intake manifold. Check for leaks and be careful when working in that area not to snap it off or break the line.

Valve cover gaskets on the 2.5 have to be installed carefully or they leak. Mine does not and I’m not touching it until it does. Do a search for threads on valve cover replacement on the duke. Follow the instructions carefully.

Purchased mine with 80K miles and it sounded like a truck from the valve noise. Have been running synthetic oil since then (147K currently) and it is a lot quieter now (just my opinion).
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ltlfrari
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Report this Post09-05-2011 10:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ltlfrariClick Here to visit ltlfrari's HomePageSend a Private Message to ltlfrariDirect Link to This Post
OK, here's the deal. the car is 24 years old. EVERYTHING is suspect.

Rust. Upper frame rails are the main problem because you cannot see them, hidden under plastic bodywork. The best you can do is use the rest of the car a a guide as to how the frame rails might be. The trunk corners (under the trunk carpet) are good indication but beware sneaky people that make them look good to hide the bad (ask me how I know!).

Brakes. Expect to replace everything. That means new rotors, new hoses and reman calipers all around.

a/c. god only knows. If it's good, fine, if not, you could end up replacing everything. Black death (google it) is an ac/ killer.

Engine. Who knows. after 24 years of abuse you could be lucky, you might not be. You can at least use the general appearance of the engine/car as some sort of indication as to it's condition. If it looks looked after, if may well be (bit detailing can hide a lot of sins!).

Trans. Ditto engine.

At best any Fiero bought on the 'open' market (vs from someone on here) is likely not to have seen anything other than 'keep it on the road' type of maintenance for the last 15 years so you are more than likely going to have to address all those issue that have been papered over for the past 15 years. If you are prepared to address the issues then you can end up with a great car although it will still need more TLC than your average new car. Basically, there is no such thing as a 'cheap' Fiero.

A lot of the cosmetic stuff really is cosmetic, headliner (easy fix), paint (how much do you want to spend!) etc. As long as the basics are OK (ie the chassis) you can work wonders with these cars (like most cars, that means, given enough money!).

Id' also add that Fieros make great hobby cars but if yo really NEED a car on daily basis, have a reliable backup!. Once you have spent enough on a Fiero it can become a daily driver but even them it's still an old car and liable to failures of one sort or another. But if you want to learn about cars, Fieros are a great car to do that on and pretty much EVERY problem you will ever encounter has already be experienced by someone on here. Best place on earth (may in the universe) for Fiero knowledge.

Typed after a few beers and a couple of Whiskies (of the Scottish variety) so apologies for any gibberish!

Oh, and welcome to the madness. You can't stop at one!!

If you really want to know what it's like to own a Fiero (or three), read the diary section of my web site (long and probably boring) for the 'real' experience!

------------------
Dave

www.ltlfrari.com

[This message has been edited by ltlfrari (edited 09-05-2011).]

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