i got an 88 gt 5 speed with about 84,000 miles on it, which i have only owned sense march this year. i have noticed that its getting hard to get into gear some times and its no particular gear either. i have noticed it more on first when coming to a stop, going into fifth, and reverse grinds or "cluncks" in if i dont wait a few seconds or go into fourth when i stop and then reverse....learned that trick from my old chevy truck. any ideas what could be happening or is it normal?

Sounds like your clutch isn't fully disengaging. Top off the brake fluid in your clutch master cylinder (next to the brake master cylinder)

Don't force it into gear, it only makes more things broke.

Try pumping the clutch pedal after you fill up the Master Cylinder. Pumping the pedal collapses the air bubbles in the line. Here is a kinda strange thing - Sometimes after filling the M C, the problem gets better on the second day. So if it doesn't improve it right away, let it sit and then see what happens.

Going into reverse - if you wait and it doesn't grind - then your clutch IS fully disengaging however.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 08-13-2011).]

Have you replaced your clutch pedal?

Sounds like a slave/master issue. When my 5 speed had issues the master was leaking and after it was replased the slave was bad. If you want to replace the slave, get one from www.rodneydickman.com as it is the right one.

like i said i havent owned the car for two long, sense march, so im not sure if maybe the peddle was replaced before me. ill check the fluid level and top it off if needed, but last time i tried to get the cap off it wouldnt turn loose. so instead of breaking it i left it alone, didnt feel like having to repair that.

Yeah they tend to jam on. Hold it as firm as you can with the second hand.

Have you ever bled it before? It might help.

From V8 archie, "Archism #1"
http://www.v8archie.com/v8Archie/home.htm

Clutch bleeding procedure
You can do it your way, But this method always works for me.
After checking to be sure there are no leaks in the Clutch Hydraulic system.
Complete ALL of the following steps before test driving the car:
1) Install a helper in the drivers seat to push in and let out the clutch pedal on command.
2) Remove the cover from the Master Cylinder reservoir.
3) Top off fluid in the reservoir.
4) During the course of this procedure DO NOT allow the "helper" to "pump" the pedal. The "helper" is to depress and release the pedal on command only, DO NOT PUMP THE PEDAL. (See theory below)
5) You will be opening and closing the bleed screw on the slave cylinder as instructed below. CAUTION: During this procedure protect your eyes from squirting brake fluid.

Step 6.5 (added by Tbone) Compress your slave rod all the way in, and put a small piece of 1X2 or a wooden doorstop inbetween the slave pushrod and the clutch arm to hold it all the way open while bleeding the clutch. This prevents airbubbles from building in the slave cylinder itself.

6) (Helper) Press clutch pedal in fully and hold.
7) (You) Open the bleed screw to allow fluid to escape.
8) (You) Close bleed screw.
9) (Helper) Release pedal completely
10) (You) Top off fluid in reservoir.
11) Repeat steps #6 thru #10 no less than 5 times before going to #12 below. NO PUMPING!
12) You have now bled the Master Cylinder and the hydraulic line. YOU ARE NOT DONE YET!!!!! We must now bleed the Slave cylinder. (This is what the manual doesn’t tell you)
13) With no further action to be done with the clutch pedal, you can no remove the "helper" from the drivers seat and have him (her/it) help you do the following.

Step 13.5 (added by tbone) - Remove wooden block/door stop, allow slave rod to return fully to the clutch arm.

14) After topping off the Master Cylinder, completely remove the bleed screw from the slave cylinder.
15) Have the "helper" stand at the ready with the bleed screw and the appropriate wrench for installing the bleed screw.
16) PROTECT YOUR EYES!
17) With the bleed screw removed. With both hands grab the push rod coming out of the slave cylinder and push it into the slave cylinder as far as it will go AND HOLD it in.
18) Your "helper" will now install and tighten the bleed screw while you hold the plunger in.
19) When bleed screw is tight release the rod and as it comes out guide it into the proper position on the clutch arm.
20) Top off the Reservoir and the job is complete.

[This message has been edited by tbone42 (edited 08-14-2011).]

quote Originally posted by Old Lar: Sounds like a slave/master issue. When my 5 speed had issues the master was leaking and after it was replased the slave was bad. If you want to replace the slave, get one from www.rodneydickman.com as it is the right one.

Yup. I replaced my master cylinder with an aftermarket unit less than a year ago. It leaked (out of the seal and onto the carpet) like a sieve. I put a Rodney Dickman master cylinder on, and there was an IMMEDIATE improvement.

i also noticed today that when i started the car cold it wanted to roll forward a little, clutch in and in first.

i was finally able to get the clutch cap off and it was completely empty! lol, guess this could be my problem. im gonna go pick up some fluid, any recommendations?

It may be a good time to give the car a good once over checking also trans oil (drain and refill), brake fluild, coolant, ect... :-)

quote Originally posted by diabloroadster: It may be a good time to give the car a good once over checking also trans oil (drain and refill), brake fluild, coolant, ect... :-)

break fluid was good, coolant is good so far after my sensor change (but the overflow hose leaks on the bottom of the tank), and i have been wanting to change the trans fluid.....what weight does it take in a 5 speed?

Replace the tranny fluid with Synchromesh. (I know that Pennzoil makes Synchromesh. I don't remember who else.)
It's expensive, but most people have had the best results with it.

------------------
Raydar
88 Formula IMSA Fastback. 4.9, NVG T550

Praise the Lowered!

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 09-04-2011).]

I've been using Amsoil MTF synchromesh and i'm happy with the shift quality. I don't have anything to compare it to though.

I wanted a synthetic gear oil and the regular stuff isn't.

quote Originally posted by Old Lar: Sounds like a slave/master issue. When my 5 speed had issues the master was leaking and after it was replased the slave was bad. If you want to replace the slave, get one from www.rodneydickman.com as it is the right one.

Also get the master cyl from Rodney. I had a brand new aftermarket master cyl and it leaked like hell. I put Rodney's on, and there was INSTANT improvement. I still think I need to replace the aftermarket slave. Most of these are a POS. Rodney makes good stuff.

Also, have you completely bled your clutch fluid? If it is anything but nice and clear, then it has all kinds of crap in it, and the system won't work well.

THE FLUID THAT GOES IN YOUR CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER IS BRAKE FLUID.

The syncromesh is what goes into the transmission itself.

i figured that the clutch fluid was the same as break fluid, but i found some labeled clutch fluid at O's. now im gonna try and bleed this thing, but im not sure whats what on the system (still new to the car). where do i bleed the master, and where is the slave bleed at? the only thing i can see is the part coming out of the trans with the bleed screw on the top. which is which and where are they so i get it right? thanks again

The thing with the clutch cap is the master.....

the slave is on the transmission.