ok so my car has been throwing code 13.
i figure bad o2 sensor since not too long back i had an injector go bad and dump fuel like crazy. i changed the o2. (old one was crazy black and filled with carbon.)
new one worked great....until today....the same symptoms came back as before....and then bam code 13 again. i have only driven the car for 2 days and the o2 went bad?

i just put a new catalytic converter on and it does smell really bad. (sulfur-rotten eggs.)

so whats going on? could another sensor go bad and cause all this? map sensor perhaps? are they all essentially the same. from fiero to fiero? i have my 84 that i hardly ever drive. so i can yank the map off it if need be.

need help asap as im trying to smog the car today.

its a 86 se with a 3.4 5 spd. truleo headers.(dont think they would do any harm.)

what do your "Spark Plugs look like ? (all 6 ) maybe another injector, maybe a "batch" misfiring)

What would cause the batch to misfire? I got rebuilt injectors. Came with a flow chart and such.

Sounds like it's too rich. There are a lot of things that could cause this. Intake air temp sensor, map sensor, coolant temp sensor, throttle position sensor. I would take a look at those things before putting a new o2 sensor in. You'll probably need a new o2, but you might end up recking the new one if it gets sooted up. Have you pulled the (new) old one out yet? Is it sooted up? Your converter might be getting punished too if it's overly rich.

I'm a moron......here I sit on my laptop....right next to it is dodgerunners aldl cable....so off I go. Any body know I'm looking at? Or what I'm looking for as far as a bad sensor reading?

If you started the log to save it defaults to the Program Files\Winaldl folder.

Yes an exhaust leak can affect O2 readings greatly. The O2 compares the exhaust gases to outside air to work. If your leak is allowing exhaust to flow over the outside of the O2 it will affect it's function. If the leak allows air to suck into the exhaust it can affect readings.

https://www.fiero.nl/downloa...DLViewSetup0.3-2.exe

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 08-04-2011).]

email sent to you dodgerunner. contains log.

quote Originally posted by Dodgerunner: The O2 compares the exhaust gases to outside air to work. If you leak is allowing exhaust to flow over the outside of the O2 it will affect it's function.

O2 sensors don't take readings of the outside air. Just readings of the exhaust stream.

quote Originally posted by 1fatcat: O2 sensors don't take readings of the outside air. Just readings of the exhaust stream.

They operate electrochemically, on the Nernst principle [Walther H. Nernst (1864-1941)]. When the ceramic electrolyte is heated to 350°C or higher it conducts oxygen ions. Then, since one porous platinum electrode is exposed to the atmoshere and the other to the exhaust gasses, the differences in ionic density of the gasses on either side of the electrolyte want to come into equilibrium--this "balancing act" creates an ion flow from the atmospheric air through the ceramic and into the exhaust gasses. It is this ion flow through the ceramic that produces the measurable voltage.

Even though you don't see a vent for outside air often simply vents along the sides of the wires into the atmoshere side of the sensor. I know a guy that though he would be smart and put some silicone sealer around the wires of the sensor to keep it water proof.. He then wondered why his new O2 would not work at all...

Update.
I replaced the o2 and fixed the leak.(broke egr tube in the process) I put a spare on.
Still runs rich. And now idles high. If I put my finger over the iac port it dies instantly.

Would a bad egr valve be an issue? I tried spraying carb cleaner. The only place it changes is at the very bottom of the egr valve. But I have the egr tube block off right now until I get new gaskets.

What other sensors could go bad and not nessisarily throw a code? I did swap the map sensor out with a spare I got off a caddilac. I'm not sure if they're different.

All I know is I have until Friday to get this issue fixed so I can smog it.

Your throttle position sensor is a little out of adjustment. It should read 0. You can key on, engine off loosen the screws and adjust the sensor so it reads 0. It won't change much however.

So one thing that would cause the ECM to idle the engine high and dump in quite a bit of gas is if your CTS is telling the ECM that the engine is cold.

Does the CTS reading when you scan the ECM look right?

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Sensors can be off but not be giving you an code. Codes will tell you that the ECM is saying that the reading the sensor is getting is out of range, however that doesn't mean that sensor is bad.

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A leaking EGR tube will make the engine idle fast. That lets air into the intake manifold. A leaking EGR VALVE lets exhaust gasses into the intake manifold. Thus a leaking EGR valve makes the idle slower and unstable.

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You covered the IAC hole and the engine stalled or almost stalled. That means you don't have any air leaks.

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Does the SES light come on after the engine has been idling fast (engine warm)? If not, that means the ECM is opening the IAC enough to get that idle. The idle has to be above what the ECM thinks it should be for over what I would call, a long red light, for the ECM to go into alarm.

The IAC motor could be stuck. One quick test is to jumper A-B and turn the key on, but don't start it. The ECM in that mode closes the IAC passage fully. So key on, A-B jumpered and wait 45 seconds. You should hear the IAC 'clicking' during this time. Now start the engine. You may need to press the throttle a bit to get it to start. If the IAC was working, when you went to start it the idle should have been quite slow, or not even idling. Then the ECM should be turning the IAC out to increase the idle. If that starts happening that means the ECM is controlling the IAC.

A-B jumpered - engine off - the ECM closes down the IAC passage. A-B jumpered - engine on - the ECM runs the IAC per the ECM's program.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 08-07-2011).]

I think I'm just gonna change the cts and air temp sensor. Ill mess with the tps and get it set right.

Ok so here the update. I changed the regulator....blms went from 120 to 128 which Is good. Then....if I rev it past 2000rpms the rich flag pops. And yet again code 13. Still haven't got my los5t power back. Wtf guys. I did notice its seeing the intake air temp as 108 when is was like 86 outside. Might that cause it?