I'm going to replace the A/C compressor on my V6 '88 Formula this weekend. I've been told that it helps to take the exhaust hangers off. Anyone have any advice for replacing the compressor?

My Murray (I know they aren't great) compressor went out after a month. Are there any better ones out there?

One more question: how do I switch the climate control to/from blowing out the vents or the windshield? I don't see a button, and it changes by itself.

btw, it's about 3.5 hours of labor for a shop to do it. I'm going to have the shop do the rest.

When I replaced the belt on my 85 v6 I found I while I could get a wrench on the top bolt but there’s no way to turn it as it hits either the firewall or the compressor bracket. My solution? Make a right angle ratchet:



With the ratchet on the bolt I still could not get enough leverage to move the bolt and if I put a piece of tube over the ratchet handle, the tube hit the deck lid so I came up with the ‘bent bit of tube’. Slip one end over the ratchet handle and the other end had enough clearance to miss the deck lid. A couple of swear words later and the bolt was loose!

After swapping the belt I used my custom bracket thingy between the pulleys to tension the belt while I tightened the bolts. I replaced the original belt with a 17380 one. It’s a bit thicker than the stock belt and sits higher on the pulleys. So far it seems to be working well, no belt squeal and the a/c is cold again because it’s actually running now when it should instead of slipping!

It's been so long since I was under this car that I can't really comment on the difficulty or otherwise of removing the compressor. In fact I don't think I have done that, just pulled the whole engine last time (gearbox died).

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Dave

www.ltlfrari.com

[This message has been edited by ltlfrari (edited 07-22-2011).]

Remove the deckid, take dogbone loose, rachet motor forward, loosen Alt, remove belt, loose compressor, remove belt, remove top two bolts, remove bottom bolt, drop out bottom...Will make it easier to remove hanger right under that area....Get ready to cuss and hollar cause it is not a fun job.....One of the bolts on the top has a nut on it so you have to hold it with one hand and turn rachet with the other.....

quote Originally posted by MstangsBware: Remove the deckid, take dogbone loose, rachet motor forward, loosen Alt, remove belt, loose compressor, remove belt, remove top two bolts, remove bottom bolt, drop out bottom...Will make it easier to remove hanger right under that area....Get ready to cuss and hollar cause it is not a fun job.....One of the bolts on the top has a nut on it so you have to hold it with one hand and turn rachet with the other.....

What do you mean by ratchet motor forward?

With the dog bone off, you can use a ratchet strap to move the motor. I'm not sure he meant "forward", though.

quote Originally posted by TopNotch: With the dog bone off, you can use a ratchet strap to move the motor. I'm not sure he meant "forward", though.

Yeah meant backwards....torward rear of car....this gives u alot more room...

Ok, so I'm going to wrap a strap around the plenum and hook it into the dogbone mounting hole. Do I need to unbolt any other engine mounts?

I bought a 4" long 3/8" socket today in case it's needed since it is so short. I'll return it if I don't use it.

quote Originally posted by Rolling Thunder: Ok, so I'm going to wrap a strap around the plenum and hook it into the dogbone mounting hole. Do I need to unbolt any other engine mounts?

Not if you have stock, rubber mounts. If you have poly mounts, they won't "give" enough.

if you rear cradle bolts are not rusted in the nuts you can remove them and with the body blocked up lower the rear of the cradle. That gives you even more room with the dog bone removed and struts loosened..

Well, I've decided to pay to have it installed. I determined that I could indeed do it myself, but there is a problem. The shop requires that I keep the plate (plug) on the compressor to keep in the oil I put in the compressor (the lines need to be flushed before they are hooked up). However, the plate is plastic and about 3 inches from the header heatshield. I see disaster here. The engine will be fully warmed up by the time I get there, and I expect the temperature to be 300F at that point. I do have some aluminum tape (no insulation backing) that I can bolt on it, but I'm not that confident in it. Anyone have an opinion?

Edit: I just remembered that I have some insulation that might work. It's a thick foil backed by 3/8" of recycled cotton. I'll just bolt that in place if I can find a bolt the right size.

[This message has been edited by Rolling Thunder (edited 07-23-2011).]

I have a metal plate on mine. A bolt holds it on the rear of the compressor. Mine has the green 'O' rings on the back , not the flat sealing washers.
-Joe

Am I just better off paying the shop to do everything, including the markup on the parts, for them to cover their work? This last compressor lasted a month. If that happens again, I'd rather them be liable. I provided the parts last time, so they aren't liable this time.

Edit: Should I look into one of those used car warranties for the future?

[This message has been edited by Rolling Thunder (edited 07-23-2011).]

I only replaced a 2.8L compressor once and it was a real PITA. I used an extention bar and a universal joint on the socket to get the mountian bolt loose working behind the compressor. Also used a shorty ratching box wrench at some point.. Getting the compressor out was difficult but getting the compressor aligned and the bolt back in was a bear. Its a job that I don't want to do ever again.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

quote Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: I only replaced a 2.8L compressor once and it was a real PITA. I used an extention bar and a universal joint on the socket to get the mountian bolt loose working behind the compressor. Also used a shorty ratching box wrench at some point.. Getting the compressor out was difficult but getting the compressor aligned and the bolt back in was a bear. Its a job that I don't want to do ever again.

lol, worth paying 3.5h worth of labor?

If this thing goes out again, I'll finish my 3800 swap and use a brand new delco compressor. That'll be my summer car and my formula will be my winter car. The words of a coworker are echoing in my head. "Buy a POS new Chevy Aveo and don't have to worry about out it for a few years." I'd hate to think of my car as just an appliance, not a form of self-expression.

Just replaced mine again. Little bit more than 3.5 hours. I just jacked up the back of the car and placed it on jack stands. This could account for my longer replacement time. Hardest part is by far the removal and replacement of the compressor.

My procedure;

The top bolts can be gotten from underneath the car, remove both. My method was/is remove top bolts from below, I did loosen them from above, I did not remove the trunk lid. Next, I remove the a/c adjustment bolt, remove the bolt on the bracket by the little shock, then remove bolt on the block on the a/c bracket and remove the bracket.

Next disconnect the electrical lines on the back on the compressor. Then disconnect the bolt that connects the hoses to the compressor. Then remove the electrical connector at the front of the compressor. The compressor then can be angled between the exhaust and the frame front right corner.

To re-install don't tighten the three bolts on the back bracket, it will make it easier later. After filling the compressor with oil use some plugs to allow you to put it up in the space. Reconnect the front electrical connector. With the compressor in place, put in the bracket reverse put the bolt in by the shock first. Then the bolt by the pulleys on the bracket. Now the compressor will be resting on the bracket. Next, slide the compressor up into the top bracket. Use the bolt with the nut to hold the compressor in place and then put in the bolt on the other side. You should be able to tight both of the these up from the bottom. You may need to tighten the outside bolt (by the pulleys) from the top.

Now tighten up the three bracket bolts on the back end of the compressor. Then install and tighten hose. Reconnect the electrical lines on the back of the compressor.

Probably took 4.5 hours, by the time I got the new orifice tube and accumulator in place

That top bolt is a PITA, but I was able to get at it with a small 1/4 drive ratchet, 3/8 adapter, and drive socket.