My AC hasn't blown cold air since I bought my car 4 years ago. But the DASH FAN has always provided enough comfort. Recently the fan only worked on HIGH SPEED. it stopped running if you turned the speed to medium or low, and wouldn't restart even when the knob was turned back to high.... If you left the knob on HIGH It would randomly start on it's own. Playing with the knob and all the buttons has no affect. When it wanted to run, it would run, usually until I turned the speed down or the system or engine OFF, and then it wouldn't restart. LATELY I CAN'T GET THE FAN TO RUN AT ALL. I have a meter and some electrical knowledge, but don't want to disassemble my car to resolve the issue. Can someone suggest a few tests?

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WAYNES' WHEELS: White 84 SE from eBay with 17K.
A touch of blue: body trim, wheel highlights and front pegasus decal.
"Sweet little Peggy, You'll know her if you see her"

Look at the fan - under the front hood. You can see the two leads that run to it. If there is +12v and ground to the fan it should run.

Next to the fan is a panel that is in the blower box that is resistors for the lower speeds. While you are down there first check to make sure the wires are on the resistors the way they should be. Next pull the resistor panel out and clean the leaves out of there. Then check to see if any of the resistor coils are broken.



(video mainly just for reference)

The fan kicks out a lot of torque if you start it in your hand btw. Yeah you can just connect it to the battery to test it.

Super easy to get to as you can see from this video. 5 hex head screws and it is in your hand.

btw also - the fuse box - check the fuse - and there are two latches on the side of the fuse box. Feel them and squeeze them in while pushing up to release the tension. Then the fuse box will swing down to a vertical position so you can test the fuse.

How to test the fuse - This is the best way to do it in a car - turn the key on, fan on - now ground your negative lead of your meter - then take the positive and touch one, and then the other test points on the back side of the fuse. Using this procedure there is no need to remove the fuse in question.

Power on both sides - good

Power on only one side - bad fuse

Power on no side of the fuse - Circuit (key) is turned off or you have some deeper problem

It's an easier procedure than pulling the fuse PLUS it gives you a whole lot more information about what is happening electrically.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 07-21-2011).]

Thanks,
I now have direction, but don't have the time till the weekend.