i was trying to replace the 02 sensor and it just snapped off i busted my hand up pretty good.,..

what now i cant drive like this... can i drive to my local muffler shop and they could weld it back on...
please dont tell me i have to remove my exhuast piping. i just had a new cat muffler installed...

The threads are still in the hole. A muffler shop should be able to heat it and remove with an easy out.

It looks like the entire mounting bung broke free, that may be a bit of a problem in that location. You could call the muffler place and see if they would be willing to weld in that location, they may not though with the pipe being right in the engine bay.

the entire mounting did brake off... you can clearly see it in the pics....... my question is can i drive like this to the shop to have it fixed ? its friday my only day off please dont tell me im stuck at home...

quote Originally posted by freedom0226: the entire mounting did brake off... you can clearly see it in the pics....... my question is can i drive like this to the shop to have it fixed ? its friday my only day off please dont tell me im stuck at home...

IMHO, yes. Removing the O2 sensor and driving the car for a short distance is how I test for a plugged cat. If I can do this for testing, I don't see why you can't for a repair. Good luck.

You can drive it it will just be loud and have a check engine light. Just be aware of where that hot exhaust air is goiong to blow, hopefully not on wires. How far are you driving?

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 06-24-2011).]

ill will respond in 45 min with results this sucks a royal di**

Sorry, missed that... I thought the sensor threads broke. Yup, it will need to be welded back on. YOu can drive, but hopefully for only a short distance.

quote Originally posted by freedom0226: ill will respond in 45 min with results this sucks a royal di**

45 minute drive? Thats a long ways. I think I'd hose clamp a piece of metal over the hole or some other temp fix for that long of a drive.

quote Originally posted by 2.5: 45 minute drive? Thats a long ways. I think I'd hose clamp a piece of metal over the hole or some other temp fix for that long of a drive.

yup...

quote Originally posted by 2.5: ...I think I'd hose clamp a piece of metal over the hole or some other temp fix for that long of a drive.

Yup. Would suck even worse to set your car on fire. It's happened.

if i remember correctly a quarter is about the right size to fit over that hole in the pipe. just put a hose clamp over it and it should hold untill you get to the shop.

no I said I will respond in 45 minutes. I'm already here it was only 5 blocks away. but it looks like they wanna cut the new pipe that was just installed to gain access... what happens if I just block up the hole..?? it cost me 180 to run all that new pipe and now just to cut it..

Any high temp jb weld easy fix,,,,

they said take off the whole manifold

They probably want to take the cross pipe (V6) or the manifold on the 4 cyl. If, you could swap the manifold also, but it doesn't cost much for a gasket on a 2.5l.

They shouldn't have to cut any pipes.

its a four cyl.. and yes the told me to remove the manifold.. they dont do mech. work .. im going to have to sacrifice my only fing day off to do this now... and knowing my luck im going to have rusted rounded bolts and im going to get stuck ....

please any helpful hints on how to attack this id like to try to do this today ..... im going to hit them with liquid wrench and heat them up... what size are the manifold bolts so i dont start off rounding them... it seems to be pretty easy.. just about 8 bolts.. am i correct here??

just take off the air filter housing and get to it ?????????????????

I can't remember the bold size. I have removed a duke manifold, but I did it after removing the head. If you don't want to do that, remove the dog bone and use a strap to move the engine towards the rear of the car, to give you more working room.
I think there are only 7 bolts -- two on each end port, and three on the middle double port.

Here's hoping all goes well for ya. Exhaust manifold bolts are the most prone to breaking usually, don't rush let it soak in penetrating oil, I find PB blaster best. Remember most penetrating oil is flammable. I bet theres other shops that would weld it , "in car".

The bolts to the downpipe are probably the rustiest.

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 06-24-2011).]

YEA MAN THESE BOLTS LOOK LIKE THEY JUST WANT TO MESS MY DAY UP..

the ones leading to the downpipe are full of rust...

anyone try this.. scroll down to the high heat stuff it says 2000 degrees...man this sucks.
http://www.caswellplating.c...permrepairprods.html

Well if you are going to drive it anyway without the O2 sensor at least you should clamp a piece of steel (1/2 a piece of exhaust pipe) over the open hole.

It will run and get terrible gas mileage, but it will run.

Just wondering if you could get a “cat delete” pipe with the O2 sensor threads in it and splice it in down before the cat (clamp it in), at least until you could find the time to do it correctly. Would be better than no O2 at all.

quote Originally posted by freedom0226: YEA MAN THESE BOLTS LOOK LIKE THEY JUST WANT TO MESS MY DAY UP.. the ones leading to the downpipe are full of rust... anyone try this.. scroll down to the high heat stuff it says 2000 degrees...man this sucks. http://www.caswellplating.c...permrepairprods.html

I've used it but after a cat on an old Bronco II with 3.0, it could work, you have to let that suff set 12 hours or something before you run the engine.
Somethign else that may work and is easier (you still have to let it set likre 24 hours though)is the orange high temp permatex silicone, some people say don't but I have used it as header gaskets on an old V8 and it holds up to the heat.

Here is the minimum torch required to heat exhaust bolts/nuts till they are glowing red so they can be removed

http://www.thetoolworkshop....torchkit2880538.aspx

This socket will still grab your rounded nuts

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/...&ci_sku=00947078000P

Make sure your socket is ready, the wrench is set to the correct direction. Heat the nuts/bolts till they are glowing red. Hand the torch to your helper who is instructed on turning it off and quickly get the socket over your rusted/rounded nut and it will screw off. For whatever reason the nuts always make that strange noise when the start to turn. You know the nut is hot enough when it takes only a fairly normal force to get the nut to come off.

Buy an extra bottle of O2 when you buy the torch. You will go through 10 bottles of O2 for each bottle of MAPP gas.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 06-24-2011).]

quote Originally posted by freedom0226: Any high temp jb weld easy fix,,,,

Thermosteel is the product that you need.

http://epoxyputty.com/thermosteel.htm

I know Advance Auto Parts carries it. Try a pipe plug that is roughly the same size, check to see if it screws in place. If not, a couple hose clamps, a tin can (or pipe plug) and themosteel will at least make it so that it can be driven. Clean the area with a wire brush, mix up the thermosteel and spread it generously over the hole (or on the threads of the pipe plug) . Use a piece from a tin can (maybe 4"x4") and hose clamp it over the repair. Let it dry overnite. Fire it up in the morning at IDLE ONLY, Let it warm up for about 10-15 minutes to cook. Shut down the motor for 20 minutes, fire it up again for another 10 minutes. Shut it off and let it cool for a few hours. I've seen a repair like that last 20K miles. Certainly it should be enough to get you by in the short term. Of course without the 02 sensor in the pipe, you'll run like crap..... but at least you can drive to an exhaust shop for a proper repair.

[This message has been edited by Joe 1320 (edited 06-24-2011).]

thank you all for the replies... i went to the junk yard and after talking to 4 different muffler shops one guy had the balls to do it...
everyone wanted to remove the manifold or cut the pipes from under neath . no other way i was told..this one mexican dude said 100 and he not only did a great job he welded the threaded part from another manifold so i was able to drive to auto zone buy a new o2 sensor and yup the car runs great now.. actually feels and runs better than before this accident..

he also noticed a hairline crack in the manifold and also welded that up for me also...

so i ran the car on the highway like hell. and no more code 13... i love the junk yard...
300 for removing the manifold my ass....

thanks guys for all the advice but i didnt feel like killing my only day off dealing with rusty bolts.. but im still going to buy some of that putty....