Hey guys, I remember reading this somewhere... Possibly in an LED bulb thread but I didn't find it in the search. A few months ago, I took apart my cluster to fix my odometer that fell apart. While I was at it, I removed my fuel/ temp needles cause I thought I was going to paint them since they are a bit faded.. However, I remember the process for correctly calibrating the needles is a pain in the @$$ after removal.

I'm thinking of just taking off all the needles and painting them since I'm anal, so whats necessary to reset them correctly? Thanks.

For your fuel gauge, all you have to do is plug it back in at the instrument panel, then unplug the fuel pump connector in the engine bay (yellow three pin connector), turn the key to run (engine off) and ground the pink wire at the unplugged connector. Then stick your needle on the gauge at empty.

For the coolant temp gauge, plug it back into the instrument cluster, then unplug the sender on the cylinder head. Buy yourself a 55 ohm resistor (or close to 50 ohms) at Radio Shack and turn the igniton again to run (engine off) and ground the gauge sender wire with the resistor between the end of the wire and the ground. Then stick your needle on the gauge at 260*F (127*C)

For the volt meter, turn the ignition to run (engine off) and stick the needle on at approximately 12.5V.

For the tach, you can use your digital timing gun to find the actual idle RPM and stick the needle on to match the gun readout.

For the oil pressure gauge, set the ignition to run (engine off), unplug the oil pressure sender and place a 90 ohm resistor between the tan wire and ground. Stick the needle on at full scale on the gauge.

Thank you sir! Damn so my memory did serve me correctly, that IS a PITA just to change needle colors . I still have my cluster apart, but not sure if I'll attempt this cause I don't have a timing light.

How is the speedo set? If I turn the key to run, it should zero out?

Someone else will have to answer for the speedo. To duplicate the signal it receives, you'd need an AC signal generator (like the one I have here in my back pocket )set to a particular frequency... or drive at a known speed and have a helper pin it on.

I just plugged in my gauges. With the key on, engine off, most should be at zero.... speedo - 0 mph, tach - 0 rpm, oil - 0 psi, water temp only goes down to 100 F, so I set it just slightly below that when engine was cold, outside temp was 80s. I filled up my tank and put the fuel gauge on full (key on). And yeah, volt gauge around 12.5 volts (key on engine off) if your battery is fully charged. Haven't blown up my engine, gotten a ticket or ran out of gas yet.

[This message has been edited by Fiero_Adam (edited 05-11-2011).]

quote Originally posted by Bloozberry: Someone else will have to answer for the speedo. To duplicate the signal it receives, you'd need an AC signal generator (like the one I have here in my back pocket )set to a particular frequency... or drive at a known speed and have a helper pin it on.

Same as the other with key on set the needle a zero . Speedo has to be connected

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...070315-2-075734.html

I believe only the later back-lit instrument panels ('86 and later) had "return-to-zero" gauges, so you might want to consider that before taking "the easy way out".

Yep mine is an 87, I'll double check next time to see what positions the gauges take before I take the needles off for painting. Thanks everyone!

quote Originally posted by Bloozberry: I believe only the later back-lit instrument panels ('86 and later) had "return-to-zero" gauges, so you might want to consider that before taking "the easy way out".

I have an 88 so this is the procedure i followed .