sooo i am nearing the finish line on my 4.9 swap and pretty much all i have left is this no spark problem. i have compression and fuel, i took a spark plug out and turned it over and saw nothing so i know its not getting power or something. on the distributor cap there are spots for 2 plugs. one plug i have and its says c+ grd b+. i know grd is ground as for the other two beats me. and the other spot for a plug is tach and batt. now i dont have the tach batt plug but i ran a wire from batt to the battery and still nothing.

my brain hurts on this one a little and tomorrow i send out my computer to stick pony for a reprogram and then im outta state for a week.
soooooo id love to figure this out before then but if not oh well. also i was wondering what does the VATS cut off to stop the car from being stolen? because my starter works fine......

any and all help is always welcome oh guru gods of the 4.9, bless you for your infinate paitence with this youngster :-)

Hey Niterrorz,
There should be a three wire connector (which comes from the Distributor) that plugs into the back of the coil connector on the top of the Distributor cap. Also there are two other spade terminals in front of that, the one to the left takes 12+ ignition power, the right one is a Tachometer lead. Try hooking power to the distributor (+) power lead and see what happens... Good luck, I've had my 4.9 auto on the street for 2 years now and love it.

------------------
85 Notchback 4.9 4T60E
88GT 3800SC 282 Getrag

[This message has been edited by 2MidV8 (edited 05-11-2011).]

thanks i did hook that up to the battery and still nothing.

[This message has been edited by Niterrorz (edited 05-10-2011).]

VATS - in the Caddy, the starter and fuel injectors are disabled - in the Fiero, the fuel injectors are disabled, but the car will run for a sec or 2.

I would double check the dist. wiring, check the coil, rotor. Possible the crank sensor not feeding back to the ECM.

ok ive checked the coil and rotor.. where is the crank sensor located? i dont see it on you wiring thread for where it would be feed into the ecm.

quote Originally posted by Niterrorz: ok ive checked the coil and rotor.. where is the crank sensor located? i dont see it on you wiring thread for where it would be feed into the ecm.

inside the distributor - feeds ECM C5 and D9:

[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 05-11-2011).]

ah ok the cam sensor i was looking for crank sensor lol. i actually sent my chip off to stickpony for programing and im going to Arizona for a week on vacation so i will have to tackle this when i get back. thanks for pointing that out ill sift thru wires when i can.

quote Originally posted by Niterrorz: ah ok the cam sensor i was looking for crank sensor lol. i actually sent my chip off to stickpony for programing and im going to Arizona for a week on vacation so i will have to tackle this when i get back. thanks for pointing that out ill sift thru wires when i can.

patience my friend, you'll nail it down, dont worry... time makes all things possible..

ok got my chip back today and ive tried grounding the engine better but im still getting nothing im really at a loss here. and i was just putting the rotor cap back on and the whole thing turned on me so im probably going to have to retime it as well arnt i?

[This message has been edited by Niterrorz (edited 05-25-2011).]

Yes you have to retime it anytime the distributor is disturbed.

i think im gonna shoot myself now. hey phonedawgs ill give you that rolling chassy if you come down and help me get this 4.9 running.

When do you want to work on it?

i dunno when ever is good i guess i have to work 3rd shift thrusday and friday night. an update i am now getting spark but its not firing. it could be timing problem since i seemed to have solved the spark issue. help is definatly still needed so any advice is welcome. do you think lack of fuel pressure could be causing this as well? i do smell gas at the exhaust.

i just pulled a spark plug and it was getting crap for spark and i got shocked!!! lol it hurt but im going to replace the plug and wires

[This message has been edited by Niterrorz (edited 05-25-2011).]

If it pops in the exhaust or intake that points to a timing issue. Take out the #1 plug and turn the crank clockwise till you are on compression. Then continue till you get the timing marks lined up. Then open the distributor and make sure the rotor is pointed to the number 1 spark plug tower. Then fine align the reluctor at the bottom of the distributor so the two are lined up exactly. Re-confirm that the rotor is still pointing to #1 and snug down the distributor. Replace the rotor if you ended up taking it out and see if it starts.

by poping you mean that it sounds like a backfire? if thats the case then no its not poping. i replaced the plugs and wires and still nothing.....im calling it a night time for uv blue and LA Noire.....

Buy an oe 2.8l replacement from treperformance online

Is the pump kicking in? If your car was a 2.5l you need to upgrade the FP as the 4.9l won't run off it's very low pressure

Before you get too wild on the fuel pump make sure the PCM is firing the injector.

Q1 - Does the fuel pump do it's 'prime'? If not the PCM might not be getting power, or it might not be getting the key on signal. Also the PCM should be turning on the SES light when the key is on engine off. Both of these are indications of a running PCM. The lack of them are indications of a non running PCM. If the PCM isn't running look for why before you assume the PCM is bad. Most likely you aren't supplying the PCM with the voltages on the right pins.

Q2 - Assuming you pass Q1 - When you bump the starter does the PCM turn on the fuel pump again for two seconds? It should. If bumping the starter kicks on the fuel pump then you know ignition signals are getting to the PCM. No fuel pump run with the bump? Look for bad wiring between the distributor/cam signal and the PCM

Q3 - Assuming you pass Q1 and Q2. Are the injectors being fired? First measure the voltage on the +12 side of the injectors during cranking. You have to do this with the injectors still plugged in. You should be getting somewhere around +12 to +10 with a charged battery. Now measure the PCM side of the injectors during cranking. You should be getting a reading of about 4v less than the hot side of the injector. That indicates your PCM is firing the injectors. Use a long stick pin if needed to slide up into the connectors to measure the voltage.

ya my injectors are not getting enough power. im getting less than a volt.

edited to add:

so i have according to mickeys thread c 11,12,13,15 and d 13,14,15,16 for the injectors hooked up from the ecm to the injectors. then on the actual injector connector all of those are pluged into various outlets and there are 2 slots labeled J and K which are red and white wires. when i hook up the red wire to 12v all the even injectors are getting power and the white is odd. yet when i goto turn it over they are still not firing. could this be a grounding issue with the ecm?

[This message has been edited by Niterrorz (edited 05-26-2011).]

INJ1 and INJ2 send power to the C203 J and K. Are there fuses in both slots?

Does the ECM turn on the fuel pump when you bump the starter? If not then the ECM isn't getting an ignition signal from the cam sensor/distributor.

yes the fuel pump turns on and the wierd thing is there is are no fuses in inj 1 or 2 slots in the fuse panel...... i know its wierd but i didnt mess with it and i actually drove the car into my garage so i dont know how it was getting power before.

edited to add:

not only are there no fuses there are no wires as well.

just as a reminder this is on an 84 if that makes a differance which it probably does

im looking at a wiring diagram for the 84 and it looks like they didnt use the inj fuse spots they just used the ecm ign fuse for the injectors

actually it looks like they used the crank,radio and ign fuses for the injectors...... how many more times can i edit this post :-P

bananas are high in potassium.

[This message has been edited by Niterrorz (edited 05-26-2011).]

bump

Yeah that makes sense for an '84.

So I take it that you are reading +12v on both sides of the injectors during cranking?

If so then the PCM isn't signaling them to fire. Why wouldn't it? What have you done to bypass the passkey circuit?

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 05-27-2011).]

the only thing that ive had done was send my chip out to stickpony to have the VATS removed amonst other things. im assuming having the VATS removed means i dont have to run a bypass circut right? i mean that is the whole point of having VATS removed isnt it?

yep

...hmmm...now I could be mistaken as it was a long time ago, but the 84 I did, did use the INJ1 fuse - I know that I pulled an extra wire for the INJ2 position and added the required connections inside of the fuse block.

Now of course this one was wired differently and you will need to find out where the wire goes and why there is no 12v on the line - this could also be causing the no start problem as power may also be missing from something else, especially if it's has been branched off another circuit.

i picked up a fuel pressure gauge today and found out i have a whooping....wait for it.........5 PSI at the fuel rail. so ya unless im not using the pressure gauge right thats what it be..... i have work tonight but will be working on this problem tomorrow and updating this thread.

it was the fuel pressure. i dropped the tank put a hose clamp on the rubber hose going from the pump to the fuel line and it started right up. thanks everyone for your help.