Hi Guys

Got an 85 fiero v6 that was a b%tch to start a few months ago from sitting. Had to take the cap and rotor out and use some sandpaper and file on each of the posts to get the car to spark.

Of course, now that the car sat over the winter....same thing. No spark and the distributor terminal/posts are all rusted again.

Of course, I'm too cheap to take out the distributor and buy a new one..... just curious if others have used some anti-rust paint, or some zin coat spray or use di-electric lithium grease on the terminals?

Thanks
Dave M.

Are you talking about the 6 posts that the spark plug wires attach to? Generally I use a little bit of silicone grease on the boots before installing them, but you could just get a distributor cap with brass terminals. AFAIK there's not any coating you can apply that won't degrade electrical conductivity.

Are you talking about the rotor and the inside of the distributor? IF you did that, they are probably too far away from each other now, and pretty much junk.

Sorry guys.... I meant the posts inside the distributor when you take off the cap and rotor.... not the ones on the distributor cap.

Out of curiosity, does anyone know what the spacing is between the 6 posts and the 6 smaller ones.....

I'll have to double check.... perhaps I did manage to push them out a little when filing.... : (

Does the car run? Then no problem. The rotor does not touch those posts. A spark jumps the gap.

Measure the resistance of all your spark plug wires. Make sure they are no more than 10K/foot. Measure the resistance of your coil wire also.

Then also measure the resistance of your ignition coil per the attached. Also inspect the bottom of your rotor for any cracks or black spots that might show a spark traveling through your rotor to the distributor shaft.

Your Fiero's secondary should be able to fire through the corrosion on the distributor terminals as long as it's not too much. I'm surprised it gave you a no-start condition. I think you have a weak spark problem also that is allowing the this problem to rear it's head.

High resistance in either the coil or the spark plug wires will tend to also take out your ICM. It doesn't hurt to check, and if they all read good then you can rest assured they are testing good.

I do think you will be best served with a thin layer of dielectric grease on the terminals. Dielectric grease itself is an insulator. So that in itself isn't a help to the spark traveling. So that's why to keep it thin. The second thing it does is keep the oxygen off of the terminals. That should keep them from corroding.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 04-25-2011).]

Thanks for posting phonedawgz

I will go 1 by 1 and see what's out of whack.

Yep, car won't run... no spark. Sat since Fall. Just finished changing out oil pan, oil pan gasket, new oil & filter.

Fuel pump turns on, oil press pins 90 on gauge cluster.... just no spark again.

Would love to know the gap (mm) from the internal dist. posts to the smaller ones

also... on the subject of coating/painting the internal dist. posts..... I thought I came across a post here awhile back where a fellow member painted them to stop the corrosion and the car ran great...... figured spraying some zinc on them wouldn't hurt..... but paint probably not as it would hurt conductivity.

D

[This message has been edited by n_tensetuning (edited 04-25-2011).]

Just spend a couple of dollars for a new cap and rotor. This is the reason I never let a car set for more than a few weeks without driving it....unless of course theres 2 feet of snow or water on the ground. Even my buddies with new Corvettes that set for 7 months a year have problems with them when spring cruising season comes.

Hey I misread your post. I had thought you had the engine running again.

Check for spark - On the Distributor side of the coil to distributor wire. No spark - Then look at the following:

Check to see if the Tach is moving up during cranking. It should move up to about 200 rpm. If the tach doesn't move up you need to solve the problem in the primary side of your ignition.

ICM
Pick up coil
Ignition coil
Power to the Ignition coil
Weak Magnets in the distributor.

ICM can be tested at a parts store. Make sure to use thermal paste under the ICM when re-installing it.
Pick up coil - Test is on the last post. You don't need to remove the distributor to test it. You DO need to remove the distributor to REPLACE it.

How to replace the pick up coil
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...HTML/114261.html#p13

Ignition Coil - Test provided last post

Power to the Ignition - Check for +12v on the PINK wire on the coil (key on)

Weak Magnet test - Put a AC volt meter on the pick up coil leads. Have someone crank the engine. You should read at least 1v during cranking. Assuming your pick up coil passed, if this test fails it means your distributor has weak magnets in the shaft.

Well, tried a few things.

Noticed I'm not getting any rpms registering on tach while cranking. Tried disconnecting tach filter, jumping terminals, etc... nothing.

Getting 12v @ pink wire on coil, and even to ignition control module.

Believe the magnets and distributor is dead...time for a new one. Looking @ the A1 Cardone one with the star shaped internal poles...

Thanks guys
D

get a MSD cap

It's rare for the magnets to go but if the tests lead you there then I can't argue with that.

In order of failure I would rank the components

ICM
Pick Up Coil

Ignition coil
magnets