I was watching V8 Archie's instructional video on installing a V8 LT1 in a Fiero, and kind of cringed when they got to putting on the electric water pump, because of the large hole that needs to be cut in the frame for clearance



Is this necessary on the one or two piece rear main seal small block chevy's?

I just saw on Stacey David's 'Gearz' an episode where he's putting together a V8 barstool out of a kit, using a 305, and it has a remote mounted water pump, with some tubing mounted to the front of the engine where the pump would normally go, and the remote pump mounted on the frame

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7yqNTrU6rI



Has anyone tried this yet on a Fiero V8 swap?

Electric water pumps are the norm on V8 swaps from what I see.

The tin is not structural, you are not going to lose any strength.
I have had mine for a long time and never had any issues with the water pump. That said I was doing it over I would install a remove water pump in the fender well out of the heat. That would clean up the engine compartment.
Check out katatak's thread in the construction zone.

Or get creative and make a belt driven offset water pump setup that clears everything...

Phase 1:


Phase 2 (modified for RamJet Intake):



Phase 3: Serpentine belt conversion (and a new water pump):



Russ544 used to run a 4cyl water pump down in the A/C location for his SBC setup:

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 04-23-2011).]

You can use any kind of electric W/P that you want to use.

The pic you captured from the video was before the hole was cleaned up & trimmed around the edge. It's also before we covered it......after all if it was covered when the video was taken then you couldn't see it because of the cover.

If you're familliar with Fieros at all, you know that it's sheet metal that the pump is coming thru, so it's not structural.

I've had customers that used the manifold & remote pump like Stacey David did on 'Gearz' a few years ago when he did the bar stool.

We've used the CSI-901 pumps that bolt onto the engine, & the CSI-925 Remote pump.

We & several other customer of mine have used any number of different electric waterpumps.

The nice thing about them is that they are available over the counter at any speed shop in case they ever need to be serviced. The remote pumps can also be put out of view like we do on our LS swaps. On some custom configurations they have the pumps mounted up above the normal W/P location where you can't miss seeing it. If you ever have to service it, get out the welder & tools because you can't buy it or parts for it over the counter.

Thanks

Archie

[This message has been edited by Archie (edited 04-22-2011).]

I know things improve and progress with time, unlike myself. But, Archie's pulley and cogged belt system I bought from him works just fine for me. I do carry a spare belt, but have never needed it.Work is a little slow when removing the WP, because the bolts are a little tough to get to. It's hard to find a less expensive system and there is no extra drain on your alternator.

I followed Archie's suggestion and used the Mesiere remote pump - mounted in the space between the chassis and the passenger quarter panel. At first I was worried that it would not move enough coolant but I have had no issues. Once I installed the extractor scoop and got the front defelector repaired, I can drive it around town with out running the fan. I used a 180* Tstat. On the interstate at 75 plus, the temp will creep to just under 200* on the aftermarket gauge. It was 90* here yesterday and I put nearly 100 miles on the car - both in town - stop light traffic and up on the hiway. Never went over 200*! Cost a little bit but it works great.

[This message has been edited by katatak (edited 04-22-2011).]

i have mine where the battery used to be.