I can't do a search from this computer so I'll ask a wuestion that's probably been answered many times before. Please bare with me.
The clutch pedal on my 88GT disengages the clutch when the pedal in nearly on the floor. Sometimes it won't completely disengage the clutch. Sometimes it works pretty good but is still very low. The clutch pedal is magnetic so I assume it is not a bent aluminum pedal. i believe I've read somewhere that some steel pedals display the same symptoms as a bent aluminum pedal. The clutch and brake pedals are about the same height from the floor when at rest. Actually the clutch pedal may be a little closer to the floor. Isn't the clutch pedal supposed to rest a little higher than the brake pedal?

I did order and receive the clutch slave cylinder repair kit from Rodney Dickman along with new clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft bushings, a new slave cylinder bleeder screw, and the self bleeder hose.

As I mentioned I cannot use the search function on this computer (restricted by IT dept. on this work computer).

Thanks,

Carroll

Supposed to be a least one inch higher than the brake pedal .

A bent pedal

Could be one of these scenarios, a bent plunger.

I would recommend the Rodney Adjustable Clutch Banjo.....that way you can take the play out of the top of the clutch pedal....and have a longer swing. It helped my car a lot.

http://rodneydickman.com/ca...o.php?products_id=56

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 04-19-2011).]

something would have to be seriously plugged up to bend your plunger. Maybe more fiber?

Are there any concerns about final adjustment on the adjustable pushrod? I read Archie's write-up about the bleed back hole in the clutch master cylinder and how installing a longer pushrod could defeat it's purpose.

1st Adjust the push rod short enough so the pedal is being stopped by the master cylinder/pushrod. That connected to the bent pedal bracket is what is stopping you clutch pedal from coming up any further now. Then adjust the pushrod longer till the pedal just touches the upper rest. The pushrod is adjusted correctly.

Note the longer pushrod makes up for the bent pedal. Bending the pedal bracket straight or making the pushrod longer both do the same task. Just don't have the pushrod adjusted so there is still pressure pushing it down when the pedal is at it's mechanical upper stop.

When the pedal is bent, as shown above, it moves the pin that the banjo attaches to up towards the pedal pivot point. This shortens the distance the pin travels on a stroke of the pedal.

A longer banjo will not correct that. A longer banjo does nothing to move the pin down to the correct distance from the pedal pivot point.

Archie

[This message has been edited by Archie (edited 04-20-2011).]

UPDATE:
I finally got around to taking a really good look at the clutch pedal. It is not bent. The clutch pedal does sit approximately 1" higher from the floor than the brake pedal. The pushrod banjo is in the correct orientation.
Earlier I checked the master cylinder reservoir and saw that it was full so I did not suspect a leak. I greased myself up, wedged myself in underneath the dash, and pulled the padding back as Archie suggested and found hydraulic fluid seeping from the boot. Finally!

I'll order a new master cylinder from Rodney and install the rebuild kit and new bleeder fitting I got from him the other day and hopefully have my clutch problems solved.

Thanks Archie for the great write-up and thanks to everyone else for you input. I'll report back when it's all done, hopefully with good news.

Fluid leaking out of the rear seal will not disable the clutch until it drains the resivour dry and air is sucked in. The main piston seal of the master cylinder is a reverse unbrella seal. As pressure builds in front of it, the pressure of the fluid helps it seal against the walls of the bore.



In the bore of the master cylinder is first the spring(top first as shown in this picture), then the piston bottom first. Then finally the dust boot is at the very outside of the cylinder. The rear seal of the piston is at the top and the main umbrella piston seal is at the bottom.

If your clutch pedal seems to have a better disengagement point when you stab or quickly depress the clutch, that would indicate the main seal is what is giving you the problem. If however with rapid pumping of the clutch pedal your disengagement becomes better, that would indicate you have air still in the system. Pumping the pedal compresses the air.