I know the Fiero isn't fiberglass, but for repairs and modifications their are so many weaves and different types of fiberglass styles out there. Which one should I use? Any prefered type of epoxy as well?

-Chris

There are several different products that you might need, & what they are will depend specifically on what you're doing. Post more info & we'll be better able to help.
For repairs you need to use "Vette panel adhesive/filler", or a similar product made specifically for SMC (the hood, decklid, & tops are SMC fiberglass). The plastic parts require a different product. More info here: http://gafieroclub.org/bbs/index.php?topic=469.0
HTH,
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Hood scoop, side scoops, modified rockers, deck lid vent, chop top ... <--all in plans for this build. I've done lots of fiberglassing as a kid, mostly on boats. Didn't know if doing it on cars required different material or not.

-Chris

The fabric gives rigidity over large areas. The shredded type fabric gives better flexibility for compound curves. Depends on your application.

If you're bonding on aftermarket scoops (like the ones I make ;-) you need to use the 'Vette panel adhesive/filler. If you're making fiberglass scoops, you should NEVER use woven; only mat.
EDIT: I'm working on making whole hoods & decklids if you don't want to spend the time 'glassing in scoops (it's a real pain in the butt & very time consuming).
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

[This message has been edited by Tha Driver (edited 04-10-2011).]

There are three general resin systems: Polyester, Vinylester and epoxy. Vinylester is very close to polyester IN USAGE, and can be treated as interchangable. Use it if you have it, otherwise, not necessary for general purpose needs. Use polyester for fabricating parts, epoxy for bonding them to the car. Polyester is available with wax mixed in (Finishing resin) or without wax (Laminating resin). Resin without wax will absorb moisture from the air when curing, and leave the surface slightly tacky - good for adding more laminations. Added wax will float to the surface, excluding the air, permitting a full hard cure - but leaving the surface waxy - poor bonding surface for any future work. Use laminating resin, you can add wax to small batches if needed, or spray the surface with PVA for the same effect.

Glass, comes as mat - short strands bonded together with a starch binder; woven fabric in a number of weights, 4-16 oz is common, and a number of weaves - plain, satin, crowsfoot, harness, etc; and non-woven - unidirectional, Biax +45/-45 and 0/90, Triax and Quadraxial. If you need one of these, you will most likely know it already. For anything you are likely to do, E-glass is fine, no need for S-glass, Kevlar or Carbon.

Mat is the cheapest thing out there, and is the most suitable for making parts. It is also the heaviest and weakest, but for the majority of what we do this is not a problem. Comes in 3/4 oz and 1 1/2 oz, 3/4 is easier to work with, and you can add more laminations if desired. It should ONLY be used with polyester and vinylester - not epoxy. It relies on the styrene in these resins to break down the starch binder that holds it together and make it nice and formable - it is a real pain to try to use with epoxy.

For bonding parts to the car, taping seams, etc, use 6 or 10 oz plain weave cloth. DO NOT use seam tape with a woven selvedge edge - far more work. Cut your own tape from fabric, preferable on the bias - cut strips at 45 degrees across the fabric. The strips will stay together far better, and be very formable - will stretch easily to wrap around corners.

Cut and fit all materials dry, before you mix resin. Be accurate cutting, lots easier in the long run, mark where the pieces should go.

We can go on for a while if you want.

Hope this helps,

Mike