Well, the chipping of the enamel single-stage Maaco paint on my 88 is driving me to distraction. What is the best way to remove it? Good ole fashioned elbow grease?

It appears to be poorly bonded to the original clear coat and is flaking off all over the place (wheel wells, belt line, door edges, etc). I can remove chunks of it with my fingernail.

Is there any magic product that will strip it? I wouldn't mind getting my car back to its origianal red color, but if I have to sand off the enamel, I'll just sand to the primer and have it repainted black by a professional.

Anyways, any input is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!!

Josh

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1988 GT

--Now new and improved with restriction free manifolds, Rodney's floating rear cradle nut kit, Fiero Store front cradle bolts, manifold stud kit, etc...

How inexpensively can you acquire replacement body panels that don't have crappy Maaco paint all over them that needs removal?

If you can get them inexpensively enough, that beats wearing out tons of elbow grease... yes, the original paint on the replacement panels would still have to be sanded, but nowhere nearly as much as it would take to go through an entire Maaco paintjob and get rid of it.

[This message has been edited by LZeitgeist (edited 03-30-2011).]

New body panels aren't really much of an option. And if I have to sand anyway... Well, I'll just sand what I've already got. I read in another thread that acetone will remove the enamel but not harm the original base/clear. However, I'm concerned that acetone might damage other body parts... Hence my hesitance in buying a big can of the stuff and having at it.

I realize that this is no small task, and ultimately I'm going to have the car repainted black. So the question is, do I sand to the original primer, fill where needed with body filler, and then have it professionally painted? Or do I try to get rid of the stupid enamel first, live with the original (likely faded, problem ridden) paint for a little while, then sand it down, fill and have it painted?

Thanks!!!

Josh

[This message has been edited by jtsordel (edited 03-30-2011).]

Acetone will damage the underlying base/clear coat. What you'll need to do is sand it off. Use 220 with an air file on flat surfaces and with a DA on curved areas. Sand the enamel completely off and the clear coat until you start getting basecoat-colored sanding dust.If the base is intact you'll want to leave it as it will be a good bonding surface for the new paint.

Here's a good place to buy bulk sandpaper: http://www.autobodytoolmart.com

quote Originally posted by JazzMan: Acetone will damage the underlying base/clear coat. What you'll need to do is sand it off. Use 220 with an air file on flat surfaces Here's a good place to buy bulk sandpaper: http://www.autobodytoolmart.com

220, Wouldn't you worry about going straight thru the primer too quick? Damaging the plastic panel?
I've never used an air file not sure if thats gentler...

Jazzman-

Thanks for the advice! I appreciate the guidance, and will give it some good 'ole fashioned elbow grease (courtesy of the aforementioned tools) and sand away the offensive Maaco color, which happens to be a brown metallic. Fortunately, due to the base color being red, the brown looks more maroon than anything else.

Thanks!!!

Josh

Two things to try before doing anything....Use a good high pressure air compressor and an air nozzle to see if it will 'blow' off. Ive done this to a few cars. Next go to the best high pressure coin-op car wash with about $10 worth of change. Make sure its got hot water and put the nozzle right up to a spot thats chipped or peeling and see what happens. Ive had several Taurus, Grand Ams, etc....that I blew nearly ALL the original peeling paint off of. What was left took an hour of sanding before I reprimered it. If neither work, try a single edge razor blade with the sharp edge going into the paint almost flat like your shaving. Ive also done a lot of cars like this. Strips peel off in inch wide strips 3 feet long. Lastly, your going to need elbow grease or DA and sand it off. DONT use any kind of liquid stripper under any circumstances.

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Air, Razorblade, "Aircraft Stripper"

What is "aircraft stripper"?

I am going to attempt the air compressor, high-pressure hot water method first to see what I get. I am hopeful that it will yield good results and minimize sanding/razorblade work, but I will do what I gotta do...

Thanks for all the help!

Josh

-edit: I do NOT intend to use any liquid paint stripper, my question is more out of idle curiosity than anything else.

[This message has been edited by jtsordel (edited 03-31-2011).]

"Aircraft stripper" is paint stripper, typically methylene chloride. It comes in various types such as liquid and gel. It will dissolve plastic body panels, tail lights, etc. Only safe for use on metals such as steel and aluminum (hence the common name aircraft stripper).

Thanks JazzMan! I appreciate the explanation and words of warning.

Josh

I would also suggest the air or high psi water... Maybe rent one from the local tool rental center; a nice 3000 psi pressure washer should get 80-90% off, if its flacking already... I have seen them strip paint off of houses with them...

[This message has been edited by ALJR (edited 03-31-2011).]

http://gafieroclub.org/strip_fiero.shtml
You can use Aircraft Stripper (I do) on the SMC panels as long as you don't get it on BARE SMC. It's particularly useful if the cheap paint on the car is soft enough to gum up the sandpaper before doing much sanding.
But do try the easy ways first: air & pressure washing & razor blades sometimes work if the prep is lousy or lacquer primer was used.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

How about soda blasting it off?
Those are sold at Harbor Freight. Not sure exactly how much but it could also be an option.

Hand and machine sanding. Lots of sand paper. If some of it will blow off with air or high pressure water, fine, but I doubt that will be much. Replace your paper often whether it is on a power device or some kind of block. It will save you time and energy.


Does MAACO screw up, absolutely. Do they use crap paint, don't confuse them with Earl.MAACO can suck, but in my experience, the owners sucked more. They always wanted to stick to the $249 single stage paint and seldom would fund stripping of their car if the existing finish was crap. I have had owners demand we paint over peeling clear coat, crazing, orange peel, runs, can primer, surface rust, gaping hole rust, dents, bad bondo and every other defect you can imagine.

I ran the estimates at the MAACO I worked at and had to deliver the cars. So I also had to step cars through the shop and often sent them back to the sander or other stages. Often we did unfunded work just because.

We used a pretty decent grade of Sherwin Williams. My car below was painted with Sherwin Williams "Barrett Jackson Collector Colors". The MAACO bulk pricing for PPG and Sherwin Williams was pretty affordable. The singe stage paint is pretty durable stuff in both cases. Hard to screw that stuff up.

In painting, crap happens, especially if you don't fund proper prep. It could have been everything from wrong air pressure, wrong gun, bad mix, wrong gun set up, or they painted the car several times due to "issues". Other things such as a franchisee cheaping out and only scuffing a car, something like wax not being removed properly can cause paint to lift as well.

My car was painted the year before I had it redone in the MAACO I worked at. The jerk was a "pro", but must have been blind 'cause instead of too much paint, I got "tiger stripped". Not enough red in places and in other places I was able to blow it off with my high pressure washer.

I spent the summer sanding, but it turned out alright and this year I will probably have a friend that owes me do a little "cutting and polishing". Should have done it last year. He owes me, his elbows. Not close to perfect, but pretty good close up and I have to point out my prep errors. If I had paid the full $1000 for the two colors, I'd still have done well compared to the $2500+ other shops want. Other than some road chips and a need to do some fine touching up in around a few areas of molding, she still looks very nice two years later and has three years of warranty left.

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