Alright, I've got my ZZ3 all back together with new pistons, bearings, etc. . . I want to drop the dizzy in and confirm where I'm at so I can time it when I get it running. (remember, I don't have a timing tab on the t.chain cover since that is where the drive belt goes) I do have a timing plate on the intake manifold and a pointer that attaches to the dist. housing which tells me degrees BTDC & ATDC.

Like this-


So, I've got the crank set with piston at TDC compression in Cyl. #1. If I drop the dizzy in so the rotor is firing #1, I should set my pointer to 0* and I will be all set to adjust from there correct? Dial it to around 10-12 for startup and then use the light to pick up the new mark on the balancer and t.chain cover.

How does that sound? I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything. . .

-Tim

I don't think it will be very accurate, you can never be sure that the rotor is at the exact position to fire when #1 piston is an exactly TDC at the end of the compression stroke (both valves closed). The best way would be to buy an aftermarket pointer and some calibrated degree tape that goes on the balancer. I think, at best, using a pointer on the distributor without having an accurate mark on the balancer will be just a close reference of where your timing actually is.

I have TDC comp. #1 marked on the balancer and timing chain cover. Its obviously just a line without any degree markings but it is on there. The pointer is just for reference, like the handles on a mill table; they show you how many .001" of an inch you are moving the table but you have no idea where the table is. The pointer will just show me how many degrees I'm moving the distributor once I get it started and use a dail back timing light along with the mark I made for TDC to accurately time it correct?

-Tim

quote Originally posted by TD37: I have TDC comp. #1 marked on the balancer and timing chain cover. Its obviously just a line without any degree markings but it is on there. The pointer is just for reference, like the handles on a mill table; they show you how many .001" of an inch you are moving the table but you have no idea where the table is. The pointer will just show me how many degrees I'm moving the distributor once I get it started and use a dail back timing light along with the mark I made for TDC to accurately time it correct? -Tim

OK, if the balancer and timing cover is marked, then drop the distributor in and get the engine running. Then use a timing light and turn the distributor until you get the balancer mark to line up with the timing cover mark, you can accurately set the pointer on the distributor to 0 degrees. Then you can advance the distributor according to the marks on the dist pointer.

When you scribed the mark on the balancer and cover, did you do it rotating the crank in both directions and split the difference? You have to do this to get TDC accurate because there is some dwell time at TCD where the piston remains at TDC for a few degrees.

quote Originally posted by TONY_C: The best way would be to buy an aftermarket pointer and some calibrated degree tape that goes on the balancer. I think, at best, using a pointer on the distributor without having an accurate mark on the balancer will be just a close reference of where your timing actually is.

Can't use the tape on the Archie Balancer - There is no place to stick the tape since the balancer is pretty much just a Mercruiser Balancer / Pulley.

That being said TD37, I did pretty much the same thing as your are doing. Except, I used a stop for #1 piston and a degree wheel then degreed everything after building the motor so I was aware exactly where my "true TDC" was.

For what you are doing, you can bring #1 up to TDC on the compression stroke, set your distributor and to fire it up you should be fine at 4-8 degrees BTDC to get it started. You could make timing adjustments from there. (Hell, most SBC's will fire right up at TDC).

[This message has been edited by 3084me (edited 03-13-2011).]

I had a 350 vortec that did not have timing marks. I set the timing close with both valves closed on #1 piston and pointed rotor towards #1 wire in cap. Get it running move the dis back and forth until it accerates best. Then drive it and slow into the throttle listening for spark knock. Adjust until it runns best. This is assuming you have a NA motor. If your have power adders aka blower ect. don't do this it can cause piston damage. Most sbc will run at 10 to 16 DEg advance note too much advance it will be hard to start and might run hot, too little advance will have less power. Adjusting spring in the mecanical advace can help fine tune things also. Also pull your plugs after 50 or so miles and check to if there's any white on them. If so it could be tto advance or running lean. GOOD LUCK

Because the timing tabs are almost imposible to see in a SBC Fiero with the waterpump in the way.

I've always recommended that the timing be set & checked by using a mark on the Flywheel (a lot easier to see)

I usually mark it at TDC & use a dial in timing light to set to the desired timing.

Archie