1987 V6 manual
the ring gear spins on the flywheel

anyone ever seen this?
and do you know of a easy fix?

Can you get under there and hit the perimeter a couple times with a good spot weld?

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SSFiero@Aol.com 87 Gt-5spd-62k miles.

quote Originally posted by KissMySSFiero: Can you get under there and hit the perimeter a couple times with a good spot weld?

I'd do the same, spot weld it in several locations around the perimeter. Look at it this way, that stuff is F'd as is, you can't ruin it from here.

[This message has been edited by jelly2m8 (edited 03-01-2011).]

Yup, just weld it.

I have to weld some teeth back on mine in my corsica... I hope it is as easy.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum6/HTML/083095.html

Check the ring gear to make sure it hasn't broke between a couple of teeth. If it is no longer a continuous ring, then there is very little pressure to hold it in place. Unfortunately if it is cracked, it really needs to be replaced. The spinning of the ring gear on the flywheel surface has probably worn the flywheel to the point a new ring gear would no longer fit tight... requiring the flywheel to be replaced as well.

[This message has been edited by Ramsespride (edited 03-01-2011).]

Common occurrence on old Ford tractors. The fix is 3 quick tack welds approx 120 degrees apart.

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1986 SE 350 V8

It probably cracked. I wouldn't consider welding it if it is cracked. It could potentially fly apart and destroy the transmission.

Seen problem? year ago...

Can it be welded? Yes if not split/cracked.

Keep balance after weld job? if you are careful of doing the weld, you can get it close.
easy way to keep your spacing
number of teeth on the ring gear divided by three or five. That's how many teeth between your weld.

Trust it? Not a change.

Man trans? might as well do a clutch job at the same time.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

The ring gear is pressed onto the flywheel. It's an interference fit. The only way for it to come loose is if the ring cracks. If that's the case, the ring gear is not re-usable. Time for a new flywheel.

I don't mean to scare you, but if you do decide to weld a cracked ring back on, you're risking your life. Look at where the flywheel is, how it's oriented, and where the debris will be flung. The driver's seat is in the "line of fire".

[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 03-01-2011).]

Oh... Flywheel uses press on ring in manual tran?

Blacktree is correct and shouldn't be welded.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

quote Originally posted by theogre: Oh... Flywheel uses press on ring in manual tran?

If I remember correctly, the stock replacement (steel) flywheel has a pressed-on ring gear. The ring on the flexplate for an auto tranny is welded on.

That said, the ring gear for my aluminum flywheel is bolted on. So if my ring gear spins, something is REALLY wrong!

Mine did this a time or two.
One of the guys in our club had it happen whenever the engine was hot. (Apparently just hot enough to expand the ring gear.)
He had it spot welded in a couple of places.

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Raydar
88 4.9 Formula IMSA Fastback

Read Nealz Nuze! Praise the Lowered!

I would assume buddycraigg already checked for a cracked ring gear.

ok have to say it but you know smoking is bad for you right. lol
on the problem thats a new one for me and ive been a mechanic for about 6 years now. if it was me id just do a clutch job and new flywheel. y risk a brakedown.

Fixing it may work fine for years. It will only break again when your on vacation and 2000 miles from home

I once encountered the same problem on an grand old Jaguar MK-VII sedan. The ring gear wasn't cracked, just a too-loose press fit on the flywheel. (Fine British manufacturing quality control.) In that case, three spot welds fixed the problem and the car was still running with it ten years later.

On any car, I would definitely inspect the ring gear carefully for cracks before considering the spot-weld repair rather than replacement of the entire flywheel.

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 03-02-2011).]

Well that's something I hadn't seen before. Replacement would be my first choice but if you don't care about it that much some good (and mostly balanced) welds might solve the problem.

Thanks jelly2m8 for having my back.yes, I checked for a crack between the teeth.

The flywheel looks like cast Iron to me. so I was leaning away from the welding idea.

What about this.

Temp fix?

If ring is not crack, just weld it and be done.
Weld a spot, let it cool to temp room, do next spot, cool, ect.
Ring doesn't like heat much....

Main Reason ring stretches? Clutch overheat the flywheel. Clutch and/or PP likely was bad.... Or PO was "power braking..."

"Easy" fix
Support engine from above.
unhook exhaust.
Drop cradle.
Drop trans.

That way you don't mess with coolant or electrical systems.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 03-07-2011).]

quote Originally posted by theogre: Blacktree is correct and shouldn't be welded.

I wouldn't try to weld Blacktree even if he was wrong. He's a good guy and we kinda like him here in Central Florida.

I'm on the new flywheel & clutch side of the room.

If you are just trying to check the mechanical status of the rest of the car, just weld it. You won't be able to tell when the pins fall out either and drilling through the ring would likely weaken it further. Welding it will take less time than drilling one hole.

Then if the engine is good, drop the transmission and replace the flywheel and clutch. Then never worry about it again.


Edit - Or even better, push start the darn thing and see if it runs okay.

[This message has been edited by 2002z28ssconv (edited 03-07-2011).]

well I put the roll pins in.

it seemed to go faster than what I would have expected if I tried to weld it.
(and not to mention, I couldn't find a good place to put my ground clamp)

I need to put some stuff back together on the top
and the fuel pump doesn't run when I turn on the key.
so I just pushed it outside and dragged in another dead car.

I'll let everyone know how it goes.

Thanks for every ones opinions.

buddy craigg

So why don't you push start the thing? (well hotwire the fuel pump first) You can also use an external fuel pump/tank connected to the test port if the fuel pump in the car is bad. Just realize you are pumping fuel into the tank as you do it via the bypass portion of the fuel pressure regulator.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 03-08-2011).]

I would not recommend using roll pins. There is no way to be sure you are spacing them correctly and it will be difficult to remove the exact same amount of material from each hole.

If you have a TIG welder, then do 3-4 spot welds with no fill rod. If you must use some other method of welding which adds material, then after you are done welding, then grind down the weld flush with the wheel. Do not leave any extra material on the flywheel.

quote Originally posted by buddycraigg: well I put the roll pins in.

only problem is the roll pin will back off from centrifugal force. depends how tight the pins are in time wise. maybe some red Permatex should help...
of course this assumes the ring doesn't break and fly apart from stress at the drill points.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 03-08-2011).]

quote Originally posted by theogre: only problem is the roll pin will back off from centrifugal force ... of course this assumes the ring doesn't break and fly apart from stress at the drill points.

X2. Probably time for a new flywheel, Buddy.

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 03-08-2011).]

My 86SE V6 did this about 8 years ago. My ring gear was NOT cracked.

When we had the car on a lift and spun the engine over, we discovered previous weld joints that had been ground down flush.

Using a hammer and screwdriver, we spun the ring gear back to the original orientation and re-welded the gear.

It lasted until last January when I snapped my timing chain on the engine and installed an 88 V6 with a neutral balance flywheel.

As long as the gear is not cracked, go ahead and do 4 quick spot welds at 90 degrees from each other.

Make sure there are no cracks in it before you consider this option.

quote Originally posted by theogre: of course this assumes the ring doesn't break and fly apart from stress at the drill points.

don't worry, this was only to just start the engine to see what it is like before I remove the cradle to replace the flywheel.

quote Originally posted by Marvin McInnis: X2. Probably time for a new flywheel, Buddy.

I was already planning on putting in a new flywheel. I'm expecting it to warn from the spinning and I wouldn't trust just replacing the ring gear.

quote Originally posted by phonedawgz: So why don't you push start the thing?

the car has not been started in 3 years. My drive way is only 3 cars long. so if it doesn't start in reverse in that distance, then I have to push it back up the slope of my drive way and start over.