My 3800 is from a 1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue, and according to the information I have the Data Link Connector plugs into the ecm via the #15 and 59 pins in the Blue Connector. But, I don't have any wires coming out of those pin holes, there isn't even the hole where the wires would have been if they were removed.
Has anyone else encountered this?
IP: Logged
12:35 AM
PFF
System Bot
L67 Member
Posts: 1792 From: Winston Salem, NC Registered: Jun 2010
Found the solution, even found the diagram you're referencing 15 and 59 from. The intrigue uses C1 58 connected to pin two of the newer style data connector. Here's the diagram for your computer.
IP: Logged
05:43 AM
Admiral Jedi Member
Posts: 121 From: Spring Hill, TN, USA Registered: Dec 2009
So there is only one connection between the data port and the ecm? I believe there are three grounds on it, which leaves another data wire. Where does that one go?
Thanks for the help.
IP: Logged
11:05 AM
L67 Member
Posts: 1792 From: Winston Salem, NC Registered: Jun 2010
I'm not entirely sure. I have the data connector and pcm separated at the moment. If I remember correctly, there are 5 wires from the connector, three are grounds, and there is a tan and purple wire. After looking at that diagram for another minute, I see the tan goes to the SDM. I don't think I will have that, is it safe to pull the tan wire out of the connector and have only the purple wire going from the data connector to pin 58 of the C1 Connector?
IP: Logged
02:50 PM
L67 Member
Posts: 1792 From: Winston Salem, NC Registered: Jun 2010
I knew you were confusing the other diagram (which I looked at before asking), which is why I posed the question the way I did. It appears the Intrigue computer is wired very much differently when referencing the data link connector. No, you shouldn't need the tan wire at pin 9, it connects to the "sensing and diagnostics module" (aka the airbag computer), which is only used to read that computer when the correct tool is plugged into the ALDL port. Yes it would be fine to pull the tan wire out, you'll only need the purple wire to communicate with the PCM.
Tell you the truth, I personally wouldn't feel comfortable using this computer, you might consider finding a more popular PCM to use in case you run into trouble interfacing everything.
IP: Logged
04:21 PM
Admiral Jedi Member
Posts: 121 From: Spring Hill, TN, USA Registered: Dec 2009
These are the PCM service numbers Ryan has listed on his site (GMtuners.com) for 98-02 PCM's. He can program any of these to match his available wiring instructions.
Would any 3800 pcm work or do I need to look for a specific one? Any one would be fine, right?
Yeah, any pre-2003 3800 PCM would work fine. But remember you have one now, and it's a little .."funky". Try to stay on the beaten path. I prefer Grand Prix pcm's, I don't know why, they just seem to be the most common and easiest to work with. Buick Regal computers are also used a lot.
IP: Logged
09:50 PM
Feb 7th, 2011
Darth Fiero Member
Posts: 5922 From: Waterloo, Indiana Registered: Oct 2002
That 99 Olds Intrigue PCM should have one of the service numbers I have on the Fiero swap wiring compatibilty list Mike posted above (in other words, it should be compatible with my wiring instructions). In truth, these PCMs all have extra ground outputs, extra 5 volt reference outputs, and even extra data outputs that are not used in all applications (and some applications use different pins than others). As long as the PCM you have in your hands has a service number on it that matches what I have on my list AND you have it reprogrammed by me or someone else for a Fiero swap using base programming from a car that matches my wiring instructions (Grand Prix), you should be ok using that PCM.
In short, there's nothing special, different, or funky about a 99 Olds Intrigue 3800 PCM other than the programming that was put in it at the factory and the way they wired it for the Intrigue. If you wire it up using my instructions and have me reprogram it for you, it will work fine.
-ryan
------------------ OVERKILL IS UNDERRATED Custom GM OBD1 & OBD2 Tuning | Engine Conversions & more | www.gmtuners.com
[This message has been edited by Darth Fiero (edited 02-07-2011).]
IP: Logged
04:00 AM
Feb 8th, 2011
Admiral Jedi Member
Posts: 121 From: Spring Hill, TN, USA Registered: Dec 2009
To be sure I'm reading this correctly, I only need the purple wire (#2) to connect to the pcm? On that diagram, it goes into a connector pack and then changes color from purple to dark green, do I need to be using that pack, or can I run the #2 wire all the way to the pcm?
IP: Logged
01:12 PM
PFF
System Bot
Darth Fiero Member
Posts: 5922 From: Waterloo, Indiana Registered: Oct 2002
To be sure I'm reading this correctly, I only need the purple wire (#2) to connect to the pcm? On that diagram, it goes into a connector pack and then changes color from purple to dark green, do I need to be using that pack, or can I run the #2 wire all the way to the pcm?
All you need is the purple wire coming from pin #2 of the DLC going to pin # C1-59 of the PCM, that's it (besides wiring up power and ground to the DLC). You don't need the splice pack.
IP: Logged
05:07 PM
Mar 21st, 2011
Admiral Jedi Member
Posts: 121 From: Spring Hill, TN, USA Registered: Dec 2009
I have a few more anomalies I hope you guys can help with.
Again, my motor/trans/ecm package is from a 1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue. My ecm doesn't have a pin 75 from the blue connector, so what do I connect to the D3 on the C500 for the "hot temp" warning light? On the clear connector side, what does the #26 wire connect to? On the blue connector side, what does the #31 connect to? For those two, my diagrams are saying different things and wire colors.
Pin 4 of the Alternator connector? Pin H of the connector that goes to the coils (not the plug that plugs into the coils, the one that attaches to)? Also, pin B of the sensor at the top of the throttle body with the green wire with the white line?
Lastly, I'm using the WCF transmission adapter, do I need to drill a hole in that plate as a pivot point for the reverse throw mechanism? I can provide a picture if needed.
THANKS SO MUCH for all the help!
IP: Logged
06:32 PM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17108 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
Part of this comes down to what are you going to do with your PCM? Leave it programmed as is? Flash it to GTP?
re Pin 75 - Move a unused pin to that position - The Blue or Clear covers come off by depressing the clip in on each end of the blue/clear cover and lifting it off. Pull back the clip holding the pin and then pull the pin away from the center and pull it out from the back.
Pin H of the 8 pin - PINK - goes to E3 - PINK - Ignition Power Switched Supply
Pin B of the MAF goes to ground.
[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 03-21-2011).]
IP: Logged
07:02 PM
Darth Fiero Member
Posts: 5922 From: Waterloo, Indiana Registered: Oct 2002
I have a few more anomalies I hope you guys can help with.
Again, my motor/trans/ecm package is from a 1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue. My ecm doesn't have a pin 75 from the blue connector, so what do I connect to the D3 on the C500 for the "hot temp" warning light?
Find another terminal and wire you didn't need when making your harness modifications and use that to connect pin 75 (blue connector) to D3-C500.
quote
On the clear connector side, what does the #26 wire connect to?
C2 (clear connector) - pin 26 is engine coolant temp input. This connects to pin B of the coolant temp sensor.
quote
On the blue connector side, what does the #31 connect to?
Pin C1 (blue connector) - 31 is a ground output to the EGR valve. If you were using an EGR valve, you would connect this to pin B of the EGR valve. If you are NOT using an EGR valve, then you can remove this wire from the harness.
quote
Pin 4 of the Alternator connector?
The alternator connector's pins should be labeled A, B, C, D -or- pins P, L, F, S if you are looking at the alternator. I have never seen Pin P (or A) ever used on any application. Pin L (or B) gets connected to either the PCM or your dash warning light circuit for the alternator. Pin F (or C) does not need to be hooked up to anything (unless the PCM programming you are using wants it hooked up to the PCM), and Pin S can be wired up to the battery power (+) source protected by a 3 amp fuse or you do not need to hook it up at all.
quote
Pin H of the connector that goes to the coils (not the plug that plugs into the coils, the one that attaches to)?
Pin H of the inline connector on the ignition module harness should be a pink wire that leads to pin P of the ignition module connector (this is ign + power input), and that you can wire directly up to pin E3 of the Fiero's C500 connector.
quote
Also, pin B of the sensor at the top of the throttle body with the green wire with the white line?
Can you take a picture of this connector/sensor and post it?
quote
Lastly, I'm using the WCF transmission adapter, do I need to drill a hole in that plate as a pivot point for the reverse throw mechanism? I can provide a picture if needed.
Post a picture please.
-ryan
IP: Logged
07:14 PM
Mar 22nd, 2011
Admiral Jedi Member
Posts: 121 From: Spring Hill, TN, USA Registered: Dec 2009
Thanks for the help. I didn't realize I would have to re-pin some of the harness on the ecm side. I'll work on it some more this weekend. The only requested picture I have is of the shifter cable adapter.
The middle piece on the black piece appears to need to go through the silver plate to act as a pivot point, but I am unsure because there isn't a pre-drilled hole or any markings on the plate.
Yes there does need to be a hole there for it. I would think in the middle?? look at the pic in the link. http://www.westcoastfiero.c...ion_accessories.html Maybe call WCF and ask them where or send back and get a good one.
[This message has been edited by revin (edited 03-22-2011).]
IP: Logged
01:00 PM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17108 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
When moving wires around on the PCM it's a WHOLE LOT EASIER to pull the pins from the connector and move them around as needed. That does assume the individual wires themselves are long enough.
IP: Logged
01:07 PM
Apr 3rd, 2011
Admiral Jedi Member
Posts: 121 From: Spring Hill, TN, USA Registered: Dec 2009
Alright, I have most of that done. I was able to work on the car some today. I found a couple more things.
The wiring diagram I'm using for the evap solenoid is saying to only connect pin B of the evap to the C1-76 pin and delete the connection to the C2 connector. That leave pin A of the evap open, where does that connect to? Deleting it doesn't make sense to me.
I also noticed that my Pin E of the coil harness has been cut. What is this supposed to connect to?
Lastly, the connection between the fusebox and the c203 is only to supply power to the fuel pump, correct?
Thanks again for all your help!
IP: Logged
05:21 AM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17108 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
You can open up your ICM connector, pull the little rubber plug out and put in a wire/pin that you pulled from an unused connector. The correct color is white if you care about that.
You need to slip a paper clip into the connector to get the metal clip/wire to come out of the donor plug.
There are many connections between the fuse box and C203. Your question needs to be more specific to have a meaningful answer.
[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 04-03-2011).]
IP: Logged
05:25 AM
Mike Gonzalez Member
Posts: 5093 From: Colorado Springs, CO. USA Registered: Jul 2001