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Freeze plug on a 4 cyl by Bertf
Started on: 01-24-2011 03:54 PM
Replies: 14
Last post by: theogre on 01-26-2011 02:08 PM
Bertf
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Report this Post01-24-2011 03:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BertfSend a Private Message to BertfDirect Link to This Post
Hi guys,

Working on the fiero 2.5 4 cyl. Had to remove my engine so that i can get to my freeze plug behind the cam shaft. Yup.....all that for a freeze plug. when i was replacing my cam shaft gears it popped out the freeze plug. My question is where do i buy one? I checked out the fiero store and they sell the freeze plug kits (PN # 52074). The dealer says it's discontinued, I only need the camshaft rear freeze plug. Perhaps someone would know the size of plug required? Has someone ever bought this plug alone before? Any help would be great.

Thanks
Bert
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jaskispyder
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Report this Post01-24-2011 04:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderDirect Link to This Post
do you have the old one? Can you just tap it back in? Use a little RTV when you put it back?
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TONY_C
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Report this Post01-24-2011 04:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TONY_CSend a Private Message to TONY_CDirect Link to This Post
I wouldn't reuse it. Check rockauto.com, they are called expansion plugs and they have a bunch of sizes listed under the Fiero. They are really cheap too, probably will cost more for shipping than the actual part. I don't know if you have any good auto parts houses near you but if you do they will likely have the plug. It's probably a common size to other engines, GM likes to share components whenever possible.
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bulldog85043
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Report this Post01-24-2011 04:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bulldog85043Send a Private Message to bulldog85043Direct Link to This Post
"Freeze-plugs" or more properly "Expansion-plugs" (I got a lacture about that from my son who's now going to UTI) are common and come in very standard sizes. My suggestion is to take the plug that popped out down to yourlocal parts store (NAPA, AZ, O'Reilly's, whatever) and have them match up a new one for you. They're NOT that expensive and putting an old one in with RTV is just simply asking for problems
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1fatcat
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Report this Post01-24-2011 05:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 1fatcatSend a Private Message to 1fatcatDirect Link to This Post
If you have the engine out, you should buy the kit and do them all. The coolant plugs rot from the inside if the coolant is not maintained.
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thx569
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Report this Post01-25-2011 12:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for thx569Send a Private Message to thx569Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by bulldog85043:

"Freeze-plugs" or more properly "Expansion-plugs" (I got a lacture about that from my son who's now going to UTI) are common and come in very standard sizes. My suggestion is to take the plug that popped out down to yourlocal parts store (NAPA, AZ, O'Reilly's, whatever) and have them match up a new one for you. They're NOT that expensive and putting an old one in with RTV is just simply asking for problems


Not to be anal but call them CORE plugs. Freeze, expansion, blow, heater, clean out are all words used to describe the core support holes used to support the internal cores while casting the engine block and head. The hole at the rear of the block (at the cam shaft if the block has one) is there to allow line boring the cam bearing holes. They are then machined out to allow a steel plug to be used to seal the hole. If internal core support were not needed, then there would be no holes requiring machining and that would be a manufacturing cost saving. Those holes aren't there as a personal favor to you an engine customer in case your a Canadian and need a place to stick a block heater.

If you manage to freeze the coolant, these plugs may be displaced or not, but more likely the freezing will crack the block/head. Freezing water in an engine doesn't freeze evenly or consistantly nor flow or ooze to the area of least resistance. You have to see frozen engines to see what actually happens and you can freeze an engine block without heads on, and see it cracked next morning ( Using water and temps well below 0c or 29f ). I learned this in a 1963 autoshop class when an unusable iron engine block was sacrificed for science.

As a licenced mechanic and former automotive instructor, I had to show my Teacher Ed instructor a film on engine casting and point out those cores being laid into their supports in the casting mold and to listen to the terminology being used. He was calling them blow plugs, a term I hadn't heard before and my calling them core plugs was subsequently wrong on a test. That took three days to clear up and get my mark back. As dumb as I was to niggle over one point, the excercise was to teach correctly.

Sorry if I have offended.

P

[This message has been edited by thx569 (edited 01-25-2011).]

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Bertf
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Report this Post01-25-2011 06:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BertfSend a Private Message to BertfDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the explenation on the CORE plugs. Being a Canadien as well, we definatly know about cold winters, and your right if the block does freeze it would not care where it will crack. But we know very well to put fresh antifreeze fluid in our block and cooling system.

That was very informative
Thanks

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Bertf
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Report this Post01-25-2011 06:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BertfSend a Private Message to BertfDirect Link to This Post

Bertf

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Member since Jul 2010
Oups forgot,

Thanks to all who replied, The auto parts list them as expansion plugs i did check out the web site rockauto.com and they do list them. Before i will order them i will check around town, knoiw that i know what to ask for.

I did see one of the reponses said i should use a little bit of RTF, any thoughts? I was thinking on putting a little bit of "the right stuff". A small thin layer to help the plug slide in smoothly and seal any small pin holes.

Thanks
Bert
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1fatcat
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Report this Post01-25-2011 08:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 1fatcatSend a Private Message to 1fatcatDirect Link to This Post
YES! Use a little sealant. Make sure the block is clean of oil, as sealant wont stick to oil.
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theogre
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Report this Post01-25-2011 09:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
Better sealant for this application is Permatex Super 300 or Balkamp aviation sealer. Paint inside hole then drive plug. Sealant will dry better than any RTV silicone.

You should be able to find it local. And not a kit either. Try independent and franchise stores. Take your old one to store...

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Bertf
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Report this Post01-26-2011 06:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BertfSend a Private Message to BertfDirect Link to This Post
Thanks,

I will apply a little sealer if I can only find the plug, been hunting around for one and nobody seems to have one. I took some measurements of the opening in the block with a caliper. It shows me 2.070 inches or 52 mm which is also 2 1/16th inch.

As i said before the fiero store sells the kit 52074, but i am not sure if that includes this perticular plug.

if you have any web sites or phone #'s were i can buy this part, would greatly appreciate it guys........thanks a bunch
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TONY_C
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Report this Post01-26-2011 09:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for TONY_CSend a Private Message to TONY_CDirect Link to This Post
Dorman makes them. Here is the page from their website, http://www.dormanproducts.c...7-130_Sec8_Part1.pdf
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theogre
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Report this Post01-26-2011 10:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
Ask TFS... Call them.
Or use Dorman...

If desperate...

Use the old plug and use Super 300 sealer. If needed, a little staking should help to. 4-5 places just enough to raise a small bump for resistance to keep plug in.

As long as plug fit tight, plug just keep cam hole covered. Keep oil in but oil isn't pressurize far as I can see.

Also... you likely mess with timing and oil pump. Don't be surprise if car won't start. (you didn't say what year...)

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


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[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 01-26-2011).]

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Bertf
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Report this Post01-26-2011 11:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BertfSend a Private Message to BertfDirect Link to This Post
Hi Ogre,

Thanks for the info, i am not sure what you mean by messing with the timing and oil pump and it not starting? This is a 1984 2.5 4cyl SE, the freeze plug is located at the end of the cam shaft, and does look like it would have any effect on timing or oil pump.

Perhaps something you seen before, something i should be aware of?

thanks

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theogre
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Report this Post01-26-2011 02:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
Cam runs distributor and oil pump.
If you push cam back enough, gears that moves distributor and oil pump came unconnected. If gears reconnect 1 tooth off, car won't start.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

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