quote Originally posted by Raydar: Bumpity. So... we have the tip of the LCA that might contact the rotor. (Grind or bend as necessary, trying not to compromise the integrity of the LCA.) We have the caliper that might contact the UCA. (Massage with a hammer? Or put up with it?) Possibly thicker rotors. Check. I'm using 17" wheels, by the way. Am I missing anything? are there any other suggestions? Thanks.

Raydar,

** My car is lowerd about 2+ inches so I don't know what happens on a stock setup **


Did this upgrade a few years ago, I was using 16" rims, now 17". Rims were never an issue. I did have to grind the LCA on both sides, but the drivers side a little more. its no big deal, maybe1mm off, and its in one small area. How I found out was that I had powder coated my LCA (adds to thier "thickness") and after I had done the install and drove it around the block, I had the grinding noise. I took it all apart, and found that on both sides, I had a small amount of rubbing, so I hit the area with a grinder. The rubbing area is only a few MM wide on the LCA, so don't "grind the whole thing down". My first attempt got the pass side perfect and 90% of the drivers. I drove it again, small noise on driverside under extreme end to end turning. Took it off agian, hit the LCA on the drivers side agian, and it was done. No noise, grinding on my setup in years. My car is lowerd about 3 inches so I don't know what happens on a stock setup.

The issue of the caliper hitting the UCA is new to me, but I will say that I do have a situation where when I turn the wheel to the left (left turn), every once and a while, I get a binding and the wheel will not turn. Its happened once during a "U" turn, and a few other times when driving. It is scary to turn the wheel expecting the car to turn and then haveing the wheel "lockup". I have never thought it was the brake upgrade, and always assumed it was an issue with my rack, but now Im going to check it out, and see if its the brake's.

The install is cake, takes minutes. Just make sure you have all the parts, and that the brackets are "made" correctly. I started my upgrade and found out that WCF did not "counter sink" the bolt holes for the large bolts (the ones with the huge taper). I was looking it all over before I started, and could not figure out how to use the large bolts, and then I went to the website, saw that they didn't cut the adapters correct and made a phone call. They sent new ones that day, and i got them a day or so later. Once the new brackets arrived, it was obvious how to install them, but only after seeing the brackets.

I installed new brake lines at the same time, went with the steel braded ones. So all I can say is that the new lines installed easy, with no mods. Also painted my rotor centers and caliper outers, so once done, my setup look great. I love the setup, and would do it again if I got another 88.

Good luck

Rob
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88 Coupe, CJB T-TOP, LS376 and a GT clip
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAH9yjw6XR0

Thanks Rob!
Good info!

My car has been lowered ~1.5 - 2 inches (1 coil) in the front.
The brackets that I have are the ones with the angled offset holes, not the "rectangular" offset. Instead of using threaded holes in the plates, there are nuts welded to the back side of the plates. Very sturdy looking.
This setup was on another member's car, but he chose to go a different route. So I know it "worked" at one time.
Makes me wonder what happened, though, since one of the rotors was new and un-drilled. (I knew this going in.)

All I'm waiting for is the pads to ship from rockauto. I ordered the HP Monroe pads, but if they don't ship today, I'm going to cancel and order the Wagners.

Update.
I tried the offset brackets. I don't like them. Went back to stock for the time being. (It's amazing what fresh pads will do on a stock system.)
I suspect that the offset brackets could be made to work if I replace the brake lines. I'm planning to do that anyway.
As it is, at full lock, the brake line is jammed into the edge of the control arm. Even before the caliper hits. No real way to reposition the stock line that's not... iffy.

Going to have to grab a set of the "straight" brackets from Lonnie.

Thanks for all the comments and info.

quote Originally posted by Raydar: Update. I tried the offset brackets. I don't like them. Went back to stock for the time being. (It's amazing what fresh pads will do on a stock system.) I suspect that the offset brackets could be made to work if I replace the brake lines. I'm planning to do that anyway. As it is, at full lock, the brake line is jammed into the edge of the control arm. Even before the caliper hits. No real way to reposition the stock line that's not... iffy. Going to have to grab a set of the "straight" brackets from Lonnie. Thanks for all the comments and info.

Same exact issue I had with the offset brackets. It was definitely a safety issue with the brake line. went to the dogbone bracket and that issue was resolved. I ended up selling my offset brackets for the front and now wish I had not. Using those and the 4 additional brackets will allow the use of the more shallow 13" rotors and then there would be no LCA issues.

Charlie

Lonnie,

Status on my order please?

Thanks,
Larry

imac... sent you PM