So a previous owner decided to spray the insides of my fastback windows with black paint. I hate having these huge blindspots and want to clean it off. They are still the original quarter windows just spraypainted on the inside, what can I use that will effectively clean off the paint without damaging the windows and I can do without removing them.
88GT




He did the same to the PONTIAC in the taillights and I used some barrel cleaner which disolved the paint easily but put a couple cracks in my lenses.

Just need something that will take off the paint without damaging the windows.

Sounds odd, but you might be able to sand it off with plain white sugar and a cloth... I sanded some paint off a plexiglass display case that way and it didn't leave a mark! I'd try it on an inconspicuous spot first just in case, but it's probably safer than having any chemicals seep into the micro cracks in the plastic.

Acetone?

quote Originally posted by carnut122: Acetone?

Acetone will melt plastic.I once placed a damp rag soaked with acetone on a vacume cleaner and it stuck to the plastic top.Not much you can do,because the 2 inche outer edge is allso black,and would most likley come off too.

At least the outer dot matrix has had 25 years to cure. Hopefully the spray paint will be less adhered..

sand it off then go over it with a lighter grade then even a lighter grade than the prevous grade. Wet sandpaper will be the best .

Acetone will leave it hazzy as well as melt it some.

http://microadvances.com/chemicals1.htm

What about methyl hydrate? I didn't see it on the link you posted pmbrunelle, unless it's the same as methylated spirits. We use the stuff at work on acrylic all the time to clean it, I'm just not sure if it will be strong enough to melt the paint.

I'll get some during the week and give it a try. Otherwise I will just take the time to sand it all down.
thanks for the responses, I'll post up my results later in the week.

Methyl Hydrate is another term for the more standard "methanol" (which is an alcohol).

Methanol is listed in the compatibility chart as being compatible with acrylic for short-term use if diluted to less than 30%. Other sources may vary somewhat.

Anyway, you have your own experience that for cleaning purposes methanol won't attack acrylic.

I know this is a pretty old thread, but I finally got around to actually cleaning the windows this week. All I had around was paint thinner which worked well. Scrubbed it in with a tooth brush and wiped it off every few seconds so it wouldn't seep into the plastic and damage anything. I did get a couple small cracks near the bottom where it sat for a while from the drips but nothing bad.

I will try to get pictures later, it was dark out when I finished it up.

Now I have a new problem. Small cracks, lots of them, I knew they were there already because they would always pick up the sunlight but now that the window is a window again they really stand out. Anyone have any suggestions? If I got a heat gun and tried to remelt it together while supporting its shape with something would that work? I will see if I can get some of that acrylic glue that flows into tight crevices and give that a try.
Anyone have any experience in this?

Thanks

At this point the windows are ruined. Best bet is to replace them with some aftermarket ones.

[This message has been edited by jelly2m8 (edited 04-12-2011).]

quote Originally posted by jelly2m8: At this point the windows are ruined. Best bet is to replace them with some aftermarket ones.

Acrylic fabricators use a fast evaporating solvent marketed under the name of Weld Bond 2. It's usually applied with a hypodermic needle or a small bottle having a special top with a needle in it. It melts the plexi and evaporates so fast that there isn't much time to damage the surface, though if you apply too much, it will mar the finish. If you have a coating that's strong enough to bite into the plexi and bond to it, then you'll need something stronger to remove it. This would require dissolving the surface to some degree and that would destroy your window. Applying any solvent to acrylic is almost always disastrous.

Once you develop the crazing (small hairline cracks) the window isn't salvageable. Might as well spray it black, again

I did the same thing with my windows in the fall... previous owner had spray painted the insides black. I removed it with a paint stripper and noticed all the hairline cracks. I was thinking about maybe using some tint on the inside, I figured it might make the cracking less noticeable and still allow for some visibility... might be something to try.

My solution ended up being a hammer and some aftermarket windows

Brad

this = Once you develop the crazing (small hairline cracks) the window isn't salvageable. Might as well spray it black, again.

unrepairable. Just replace them. painting only covers it for a short time. Out in the sun, the crazing will show right thru the paint.

For others, on the idea of using window tint, I wonder if it would be possible to put some of the lightest tint on the outside of the window. A very light gray would still allow a person to see through them. This might help to extend the use of some of the windows and cover the cracks that develop in them. For the logo, the Mustang GT logo could be applied the way I did some aftermarket windows on my Brother's car.

I have the same problem except mines the opposite. The PO painted over the whole outside of the gt sails. I was debating on using something to remove the paint, but decided against it as it doesnt look terrible, was just annoying not being able to see my blind spots. I ended up just going to our local wal-mart type department store, and picking up a pair of blind spot mirrors for $3.99 until I replace the sails. They work wonders for me and is a pretty cheap fix if you'd rather not use a thinner or similar product or are afraid of the hairline cracks of the end result.

It wasn't the blind spots that bothered me while driving, it was backing out of parking spots and not seeing what's coming that I hated. I really wanna try to save them since I can't afford new ones right now. But since it seems the general consensus is they're toast I got nothing to lose trying to fix them. I'll let you know how I do, but judging by the rate this threads gone since I started it, could be a while.

quote Originally posted by D_sensitized: It wasn't the blind spots that bothered me while driving, it was backing out of parking spots and not seeing what's coming that I hated. I really wanna try to save them since I can't afford new ones right now. But since it seems the general consensus is they're toast I got nothing to lose trying to fix them. I'll let you know how I do, but judging by the rate this threads gone since I started it, could be a while.

I hear you on the backing up and not seeing whos coming. I try to back into everything because of the covered sails. If I have to park with my back end out I just back out really really slowly, in hopes that people in parking lots have sense enough to see something backing out and stopping. But being around a Big 10 college town...lots of idiot college kids find it necessary to go like 40mph in a parking lot for 3 seconds only to slam on the brakes a few feet later at the stop sign.

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: this = Once you develop the crazing (small hairline cracks) the window isn't salvageable. Might as well spray it black, again. unrepairable. Just replace them. painting only covers it for a short time. Out in the sun, the crazing will show right thru the paint.

Exactly, and new ones that are passable are available cheap from the fiero store.They are not perfect in curve but they look darn good on the car and unless you are building a show car nobody will notice.

http://www.fierostore.com/P.../Detail.aspx?s=50368

I bought tinted ones without logo, installing them this weekend.

[This message has been edited by timgray (edited 04-15-2011).]