Hi does any one have any pics of drilled and slotted brake rotors installed ?
I have a set but they had no left or right side sticker on them, so not sure if ive got them on the correct way round?

any input is always welcomed

jon

no picture but i believe the slot should go out and back away from the direction of rotation. Almost like the speed of it spinning is bending it back and out.

I think thats the wrong orientation of the rotor, the slots should be "flowing" against the direction of rotation for best braking.

I would "think" the idea is for them to flow out so what little heat /air the slot actually moves, it would flow out away from the center mass....but ...., for street use....i wonder if it really matters one way or the other. After looking at those pictures again, I see he has them on both ways. If you are really concerned contact the manufacturer or where you got them and see what they say.
The use of the slotted/drilled rotor has been discussed several times on here (search) and some say they make braking so much better, others say the brakes are better because of new rotors and the D&S is merely for looks on the street AND some say the D&S actually decreases the strength of the rotor which I can see. I still like them and will be getting some when I do the Corvette brake upgrade.

Mine came with direction labels on them, same as corvette rotor shown above, so it is correct for the RIGHT (passenger's) side.



You can see the red label at the bottom of the rotor between the studs

[This message has been edited by Tinkrr (edited 10-19-2010).]

quote Originally posted by nitroheadz28: I think thats the wrong orientation of the rotor, the slots should be "flowing" against the direction of rotation for best braking.

No. You want the slots flowing away, or out and up. The slots are for trapped gasses, and they are basically spun out.



Edit: Having the slots flow into your braking system would possibly increase heat. Also, take it from me, if drilled and slotted rotors are used in a street only application, you are really losing braking force, Normal, or spirited street driving does not get any benefits from slotted and drilled rotors. Yes, they look cool, but you are actually removing surface area for the brakes to grab the rotors. Just letting us folks know.

Tony
------------------

[This message has been edited by Tony Kania (edited 10-19-2010).]

yes, I would also assume the slots flowing outwards with rotation, to expell gas build-ups - which is the whole point of the slots

thank you for your input
this has helped me, a great deal

jon

You are very welcome. Nice to have a member say thanks.

That is my car in the pic. I had bought the slotted and drilled rotors for performance reasons a long time ago. Knowing what I know now, if I were to go keep a stock brake package, I would not go with the slotted and drilled rotors. Very noisey. But, you have to admit, they look cool.

I agree with Tony. Theyre for looks or VERY aggressive driving. They do decrease braking ability on the street. Ive also seen lots of street driven cars at local shows with cracks showing starting from the slots and holes in them. Far as I know there still not even legal to use on a Nascar stock car because of the breakage problem. They break enough solid rotors . When I was racing roundy track, we werent allowed to use them per published rule book. Theyre best suited for high speed road course racing.

BTW, If you do a conversion using Corvette rotors, places like Ecklers and other Corvette parts suppliers have painted/chrome/stainless ' hats' that cover the rough center portions of the rotor. They just slip over the lugs and cover the whole cast part right up to the braking surface. Theyre great for you guys that are going out for the total show look.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 10-19-2010).]

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: I agree with Tony. Theyre for looks or VERY aggressive driving. They do decrease braking ability on the street. Ive also seen lots of street driven cars at local shows with cracks showing starting from the slots and holes in them. Far as I know there still not even legal to use on a Nascar stock car because of the breakage problem. They break enough solid rotors . When I was racing roundy track, we werent allowed to use them per published rule book. Theyre best suited for high speed road course racing. BTW, If you do a conversion using Corvette rotors, places like Ecklers and other Corvette parts suppliers have painted/chrome/stainless ' hats' that cover the rough center portions of the rotor. They just slip over the lugs and cover the whole cast part right up to the braking surface. Theyre great for you guys that are going out for the total show look.

When I bought my cross-drilled / slotted rotors from the Fiero Store "back in the day", I did it because I was having constant overheating problems with my Fiero's brakes...

Let me just state however, that I am FAR LESS immature today than I was back then. My Fiero hasn't been my daily driver for over a decade now... but back when I graduated from HS, I pretty much floored it from every single light. I buried my foot into the throttle CONSTANTLY... it's all I did.

At least once per week, my brakes would smoke at a stop light from heavy usage.

I went through two sets of rotors (not counting the originals) in the first few years. I torqued them down appropriately, and I did it in the appropriate star pattern. The rotors would still warp and pulse after months of heavy abuse. I went through pads like crazy.

Once I upgraded to slotted and cross-drilled rotors from the Fiero Store (Ocelot brand I think), the brake fade immediately went away. The stopping distance was never an issue, as the car always stopped well within it's means... but I always suffered from brake fade. After the cross-drilled / slotted rotors... I NEVER had another problem.

As a matter of fact, 10 years later and 30k miles, I still have the same cross-drilled rotors on the back. The ones in the front I took off and gave to a friend (who just had them resurfaced) becuase I upgraded to Grand Am brakes.

So they DO work... however, they don't improve braking or decrease stopping distance, they merely eliminate brake fade.


Just want to mention though that... in my much less immature adult married life with a daughter and a pregnant wife... I haven't had to change the brakes in a single car of mine in over 7 years (I mean, with the exception of restoring my 87 Fiero).

I can't even remember the last time I went over 80 on the highway. I drive slow as crap everywhere now...

------------------
Todd,
2008 Jeep Patriot Limited 4x2
2002 Ford Explorer Sport 2dr 4x2
2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter

Slots on not just for road racing; my 86GT's brakes liked to fade bad under hard braking above 60. When I went to slotted rotors the problem went away, I/ve since put slots om 87GT too and went with Porterfield rs4 pads.

------------------
[IMG]




trueleo.com
RSpiderII@aol.com

I did a lot of hard and fast driving on back roads with my Ferrari kit as some members who know me can attest. I didnt even have vented rotors. I had stock OEM solids. I did lots of very high speed braking even down from 150+ mph. I never saw any brake fade and my original pads I installed with calipers when I started building it, lasted to 100,000 miles. Ive never had a car I can remember that I didnt get at least 50-70K out of pads. My Sebring has 87,000 on its factory pads right now. I watch the road several cars ahead and I dont race up to red lights and stop signs and slam them on. My stretch limos I used to run typically got 150K on performance pads. Of course a lot of the driving was at slower, in town speeds.

I just picked up some drilled rotors for the front and back, but when I took off the old ones I noticed the front have bearings front and back. The front tappered bearing comes out no problem, but how about the back? does anyone have a method to removed the back bearing without damaging it or do I need to wait another week and order them?

Take the outer bearing out, then out the washer and nut back on a few turns. Then pull the rotor back sharply (with a little downward pressure) so the bearing catches on the washer. That will pop the seal and the bearing out.

------------------
1986 SE 350 V8

I cant believe that this thread is still alive after nearly a year

jon