Not sure if you have room for it but ebay has a T25 to T3 adaptor available, their aftermarket turbos are tempting also but I've learned to check the claimed specs and discovered that in many cases the turbo might be a good dependable knock off, but short on the specs, more often than not being smaller than what it should be. For example, a T67 should have a 67 mm diameter compressor wheel inducer, rounded or exact or it's not a T67.
My local machine shop (any of them) aren't capable of the work,so i'm dealing with Majestic Turbo out of Waco,Tx. I've talked with a tech,and told him about the hybrid and my budget and what I was looking for. He's going to talk with his Garrett rep and see what he can do,and also price the hybrid upgrade. Tentatively to upgrade my turbo(t2871r hybrid) is about $850,but I might go with an all new turbo. They can also have it coated,and i'm planning on coating the turbine side ($30+shipping to coater)
I'm wanting 350hp,streetable spoolup,don't need to be capable of more than 400hp @ 6500rpm,bolt on/no flange modification and my budget for the turbo is about a grand.
Hope this helps your turbo questions,I quite trying to read the maps so asked a professional to do it for me I'll let you know what he tells me,he's aware of the swap from grand prix to the lighter fiero (I told him 2700lbs)
Sorry for the inactivity. between school, lacrosse season, and various trips, i haven't had a chance to do anything. Report cards came out, i got grounded (1 'c'. dang "the man!") plus, the fuel pump's acting up, again. we think the hose blew off, in the tank. because this will be the 6th time this tank has been taken out, we're kinda pushing it off.
so, if everything goes according to plan, then the shrike should be running, again, within the next week. need to get it ready for the Daytona show!
-jacob
------------------ "Be not led astray, bretheren beloved..." -James 1:16.
After I upgraded my fuel pump a few weeks ago I had the same issue. You HAVE to clamp the rubber hose peice to the pump and sending unit.
Just offhand,after I dropped the pump and fixed the leaking rubber hose (forgot to clamp it) a week later my fuel pump relay burned out the hot side feed. Literally melted the plug around the pin. I have a suspicion the extra amperage the pump needs coupled with the 20 year old wiring had something to do with the pin/wiring giving up the ghost. I planned to upgrade the entire fuel pump circuit and just run my own when I built the wiring harness. I have not had time to do a proper diagnosis on the circuit yet though,so I might have a different issue even (pulled mighty hard on the FP wires by accident while dropping tank,could just be a short to ground on the pump input voltage). I've been contemplating just fixing it temporarily though,as the wife is tired of me taking her car.
[This message has been edited by DefEddie (edited 03-04-2010).]
IP: Logged
03:16 PM
Mar 5th, 2010
Mr_jacob7 Member
Posts: 377 From: Silver Springs, Florida Registered: Jul 2007
the hose was clamped to both sides, and, after inspection, i've seen no holes, in any of the parts. i'm assuming the hose clamp was not tight enough, becuase we heard the fuel hitting the top of the tank (right next to the shifter) and the fact that my dad was the one who tightened the clamps. ;]
oh, forgot to thank you, def, for the wiring harness. idk where you found it, cuz i've looked everywhere, but that's awesome that you got it.
we'll crank down on the hose clamps, and see how it goes.
------------------ "Be not led astray, bretheren beloved..." -James 1:16.
Thanks, Danyel, for the graphic.
IP: Logged
06:50 AM
Mar 8th, 2010
Mr_jacob7 Member
Posts: 377 From: Silver Springs, Florida Registered: Jul 2007
Decklid's starting to crack. :\ Manual boost control valve is in, and working. still needs tuning. cooling system's acting all screwey. my dad's thinking a bubble of air in the system. need to open the thermostat housing valve thing (a technical term) to let the air out, and see. other than those, the car's running well.
oh, and the driver-side window motor is on, and running well. oiled the locks, too, so the power locks on the driver side work all the way.
------------------ "Be not led astray, bretheren beloved..." -James 1:16.
60 degree engines all have issues with cooling systems. They have too many high points for the air to trap at,hence the reason for the little nipples you'll see on the thermostat covers and cooling stands/pipes. I usually run them and just let the air bleeds out,pulling the thermo cap won't work probrably as the 3.1 has all the cooling pipes/junctions. You are using the original Fiero thermostat outlet/housing right? Also try tapping the pipes to get the trapped air to travel up the pipe,I have to do that to get air bubbles out of diesel high pressure fuel bleeds.
IP: Logged
02:38 PM
Mar 19th, 2010
Mr_jacob7 Member
Posts: 377 From: Silver Springs, Florida Registered: Jul 2007
the problem wasn't pockets of air, though, it was actually lack of coolant. (somebody smack me.)
i don't know how the engine didn't blow up, because we were running it hard, thinking we'd iron out the air pockets, but somehow, the engine just wants to live. my dad said that he decided to try to fill it, and poured a little over a gallon of coolant back in.
don't know where or how it was leaking. there were no puddles in the garage, at all, throughout the time it was in there.
whatever happened, it's all good now. good, and running strong. :]
the hose was clamped to both sides, and, after inspection, i've seen no holes, in any of the parts. i'm assuming the hose clamp was not tight enough, becuase we heard the fuel hitting the top of the tank (right next to the shifter) and the fact that my dad was the one who tightened the clamps. ;]
oh, forgot to thank you, def, for the wiring harness. idk where you found it, cuz i've looked everywhere, but that's awesome that you got it.
we'll crank down on the hose clamps, and see how it goes.
I've always had reservations about use of a hose to connect the fuel pump to the fuel line and can't figure out why GM used that method on the high pressure system in the Fiero when on probably every other car using the same fuel pressure level like the V6 and V8 TPI F-Body cars they used a pulsator instead which is pretty much fail proof. I'm going to drop my tank and reinstall the pulsator in place of the hose. The only issue I noted when using it before was that it had to be spaced properly using a rubber spacer. I believe GM used a combination of hoses and pulsators on the Fiero or I just replaced the hose with one whenever I had the tank down. Now that I think about it, I believe I was so paranoid about using the hose that came with the Walbro pump I installed two clamps at each end.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 03-19-2010).]
Actually,My fiero had a pulsator on the sending unit stock. I took it off to put on the rubber hose,which is standard on most fuel pump's i've changed in 88-98 trucks. The 96-98 trucks use the rubber hose and also higher pressure(~60psi) than the fiero with no issues(till they went to a module design)
IP: Logged
01:19 PM
Mar 25th, 2010
Mr_jacob7 Member
Posts: 377 From: Silver Springs, Florida Registered: Jul 2007
Yeah,it's a pretty easy job. On the lift at work using the trans jack and air tools I can drop it and install in about 30m or less. Can't wait to get a lift installed here at home,will save so much time.
IP: Logged
12:53 PM
Mar 29th, 2010
Mr_jacob7 Member
Posts: 377 From: Silver Springs, Florida Registered: Jul 2007
Don't be too green. My pump has died on me also,and i've found the problem to be in the wiring between the last plug and the pump or the pump itself. I believe I broke a wire inside the insulation on the pump power circuit after the last plug. I haven't had time to repair yet,but hope to get the car in the air today.
Unfortunately I'll be doing it at home in my driveway since that is where the car is,and I don't want the extra work of hooking up the trailer and pulling it up to Ford to do it on a lift. So i'll get to have some of that fun your having myself
[This message has been edited by DefEddie (edited 03-30-2010).]
Well,took me about an hour maybe by myself. Used four cinder blocks,two jackstands and floor jack. Pump was totally dead,tubes were also loose from sending unit coming out the top. Replaced pump,and had the sending unit welded since i'm too lazy to pull one from the parts car. Still have to go back in though,boogered up the sending unit and my guage doesn't work now. Also bypassed the part of the circuit that goes through the oil pressure sending unit.
IP: Logged
12:32 PM
Jun 20th, 2010
Khw Member
Posts: 11139 From: South Weber, UT. U.S.A. Registered: Jun 2008
so i was stumbling thru Wiki for engine swap ideas. would like to keep Pontiac Power as a source......found you, here....again. i forgot i posted on page one......so what kind of HP/torque numbers you end up gettin?? sounds like what i want with a turbo on Pontiac power. is the 3.1 McLaren as easy as the regular 3.4?? the 3.4 (Firebird) seems to be a direct bolt in, from what i read??
if i can keep it simple....er i may try a swap on my own......and the help i get around the PFF.
thanks....
Daniel- Mera x
IP: Logged
11:38 AM
82-T/A [At Work] Member
Posts: 22765 From: Florida USA Registered: Aug 2002
Love the car, but I have a quick question. Is there any particular reason why you didn't go with the entire accessory configuration of the stock Fiero's V6/60? Seems like it might make for a little less cluttered installation on that side. Not that it doesn't look really great, just curious.
Sucks that the 3.1 TURBO is facing the wrong direction! hah... very cool... almost makes me want to find a McLaren GTP and pull the engine out.
They swapped the whole assembly in IIRC. You can go with the Fiero accessories but you have to swap the timing cover.Alot of the 3.1 accessories come off the timing cover or the brackets bolt to it,and the water pump goes into it. I think to use the fiero timing cover you simply have to block off a coolant bypass on the 3.1. I can't remember all of it,but if you don't have all the parts it's easier to just use the 3.1. I think the oil pan is different also,if you go with the fiero timing cover you have to change oil pans maybe?
On mine I'm not exactly sure what I will do for sure. I have a couple 2.8's to pull parts from (both fiero and S10) along with the entire 3.1 assembly and a 95 3.4 camaro engine. I also replaced a 3400 engine from a montana at work that was like an 04 or newer i'm pretty sure,and it's complete minus the upper intake. So i'm going to play around a bit when i'm ready,I haven't had time to assemble the shortblock even yet-had alot going on. I'll take pics and post results on how everything fit's together in what configurations when I do.
IP: Logged
03:54 PM
Feb 20th, 2011
Mr_jacob7 Member
Posts: 377 From: Silver Springs, Florida Registered: Jul 2007
Sorry I haven't been on for a while. We've been busy as could be. The fiero's doing well, but she's lonely. I had to get a new Daily Driver, so she's been kind of neglected.
Actually, what I'm here about is that fact that she may be up for sale, soon. Money's been a little tight, and it's a shame to have it sitting, doing nothing. So, I was wondering if, A) we have potential interest, here (figured I'd give you first dibs), and also, B)what kind of numbers would be reasonable.
I don't mean to post a "for sale" in the "tech" department, so i'm just wondering, and then i'll move if i get serious with it.
Thanks for all the support, so far, guys.
------------------ "Be not led astray, bretheren beloved..." -James 1:16.
