Gauge laying on it's face with the top of the gauge being the top

Top stud is ground

Left stud is +12

Right stud goes to the sender

Bottom stud isnt connected to anything

Again that is with teh gauge laying on it's face and you are looking at the back of it.

Leave the little yellow thing on the back of the gauge.

The sending line gets connected to ground via the resistors.

If you want to test it you can just use a 9v battery. It has enough to run the gauge. The big terminal of the 9V battery is the negative

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 12-29-2010).]

I just powered mine up and used a 150 ohm resistor and man was it off. It should have red 220 deg and it was a lot more like 150. I flicked the needle with my fingers and found that flicking it actually made the gauge move the other way. My guess is it came to the stop and the armature kept on moving a bit. So I flicked it away from the way I wanted it to move and I have it right on now. Now I guess I need to do that with the one actually in the car.

Excellent, my new (used) gauge is dead on at 100°F and 260°F.

Just so everyone know the temp gauge in the Fiero did not pass the resister test, it was off on the low end and high end. If I "adjusted" it (by flicking needle) to adjust the 100°F side the 260°F side was way off. If I "adjusted" the 260°F side the 100°F side was way off. I ended up just bringing the engine up to 220°F (read with scan tool) and "adjusted" the temp gauge to that. Problem is when engine is cold the gauge is pegged to the left.

I am replacing it tomorrow with the "new" gauge I got from The Mall very cheap. I love this forum.