There is no clutch topic, so I chose transmission:

I recently installed a new Spec stage 3, 6-puck clutch in front of my getrag 5-speed with a excellent running stock 2.8. When I first test drove it, there was a bit of clutch chatter in all gears including reverse, when letting off the clutch with normal driving, but grabbed soon after, or if I popped the clutch. Once I broke it in the first gear chatter all but stopped, and the the other gears got better. Now there's minor chatter in low and reverse, and in the other gears if I shift to soon. Once it grabs though it is there...no slippage. My question is, is that normal to get a little chatter with normal driving? Thanks...Michael

I know that some one out there is a clutch expert, and can answer my question....???

That seems about right from what I remember of my Spec III. How many miles are on it? I wouldn't worry about a little chatter but it shouldn't be extremely noticeable.

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Alan Frazier

'84 2m4 Northstar 5 speed
'84 3800SCII sold
'86 GT-'92 3.4 TDC 5 speed(sold)

The spec clutches require a special break in procedure for the first 500 miles. People say spec has issues, but I've followed the proper break in on every swap I've done and had no failures or chatter after the 500 mile period.
Dave

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www.hausofguru.com

Also, do not forget that the racing puck type clutches are very "grabby" for a reason, they are meant to hold down high horsepower engines and manic gear shifting for the purposes of exploding the excitement region of the human brain and therefore require a little bit of technique for clean release. Your engine may not have quite enough energy to slip it properly so the break in is even more critical. What surface finish RMS was ground into the flywheel during your clutch replacement? Surface finish is crucial to a puck clutch for smooth operation. A stock grind may be inadequate for stage three disks, I normally use a stage two even up to five hundred ponies on the street.

[This message has been edited by 86FieroSEv6 (edited 12-22-2010).]

quote I normally use a stage two even up to five hundred ponies on the street.

In a fiero? I have yet to find a stage3 that would handle more than 400hp... Let alone 500. The stage 5 is enough, but not by much for 550hp.

I have one beside my Northstar. It started off fairly smooth and developed in a chattery beast. I have to bring the RPM up a bit over 1500 to smoothly engage it. With most cars I drive I can engage the clutch at 1000 RPM. Of course something about my technique means I have a tendency to make a factory organic clutch chatter, so YMMV.

The spec stage 3+ is much better from a drivabilty standpoint. I was glad when the opportunity arose to replace the stage 3 (tranny swap after 7K miles). I will never purchase another Spec Stage 3, only stage 3+.

My stage 3 doesn't chatter. Followed brake in process to the word. Resurfaced flywheel, then drove normally for 500mi which also means not putting all the power on it once engaged. Check the latest CarCraft magazine which has an article on this and how important it is. If still in brake-in then maybe later it will improve.

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Red: TPI V8 + 6-Speed Yellow: Nitrous 3.4 + 5 speed White: 3800SC auto (All 88s!)
304rwHP/366rwTQ

I am not aware of a special break-in procedure. I have about 500 - 1000 miles on my spec stage 3. It chattered like a mother F'er at first. Reving higher helps to avoid the chatter. It has gotten a little better than it was but it still chatters pretty bad.

both my spec stage 3"s chattered. 1 in my accord and 1 in my z24 only way to smoothly take off was to keep the rpms high and ride it slow into first. i was told when i bought it that they are known for the chatter. didnt bother me. i kinda liked it. in a high boosted car it just made the trip alot more fun!

I agree with fieroguru. the 3+ is much smoother. I wouldn't buy another 3 either.

Russ

quote Originally posted by 86FieroSEv6: Also, do not forget that the racing puck type clutches are very "grabby" for a reason, they are meant to hold down high horsepower engines and manic gear shifting for the purposes of exploding the excitement region of the human brain and therefore require a little bit of technique for clean release. Your engine may not have quite enough energy to slip it properly so the break in is even more critical. What surface finish RMS was ground into the flywheel during your clutch replacement? Surface finish is crucial to a puck clutch for smooth operation. A stock grind may be inadequate for stage three disks, I normally use a stage two even up to five hundred ponies on the street.

This statement probably best encapsulates what I suspected. It is performing pretty much how I expected, but I just wanted to confirm that I had no real problems. Part of the chattering is probably because I didn't resurface the flywheel because it was in almost perfect shape. I found out that my old clutch was a 6-spring HD clutch and still had some mileage left, hence the good condition of the flywheel. The chattering is getting better all the time, and I only have a few hundred miles on it.

All of you all's comments back-up this quote and puts my mind to rest. Thanks to all for your comments and help in relaxing my concerns! I am happy with the clutch over-all even though It is a bit over-kill for 140 hp 2.8 engine. I do like the feeling of confidence that it is there though when I need it. If I had it to do again, I think I would go with the stage II for the stock engine. Stage III is probably more suited for the 3800 SC application. My son's Beck Arnley stage II behind his 2.8 with a Isuzu 5-speed in his '85 GT, works great with zero chatter.

quote Originally posted by Alex4mula: My stage 3 doesn't chatter. Followed brake in process to the word. Resurfaced flywheel, then drove normally for 500mi which also means not putting all the power on it once engaged. Check the latest CarCraft magazine which has an article on this and how important it is. If still in brake-in then maybe later it will improve.

Between less than optimal break-in for my several thousand dollar engine and less than optimal break-in for my $300 clutch, I chose to do right by the engine.

The clutch seems to have good power holding now, but the one time I snatched a shift during the engine break-in, it had a pretty soft apply and I smelled hot clutch shortly thereafter.