i got every thing ready to go on dropping my engine out. but the front two bolts (the two under the doors) i got the nuts off on both side. the bolt will turn a 1/2 a turn and the rubber mount mount turns with the bolt. and ideas on on how to get the two bolts out. thank you for your help and time
The bolts are seized to the bushings sleeves. Happens all the time and there are tons of threads covering this. You should try a search, but the most common methods are to:
-soak them with PB Blaster/WD40, and go at it with an impact arench after a few days; or -cut the bolt head and shaft off then counter sink the remaining portion of the bolt so it clears the ears of the chassis; or -use a sawzall and try to cut the bolt on the inside of the chassis mounting ears; or -use a big hammer or air chisel and work at them until they come loose.
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02:16 PM
sardonyx247 Member
Posts: 5032 From: Nevada, USA Registered: Jun 2003
There is one more method, I had to resort to on the front lower control arm bolts of my '85 300ZX: Borrow a ball joint tool from O'Reilleys auto parts.
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02:40 PM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17104 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
use jacks to level out the bolt and the hole, IE no weight on the bolt. then a hammer. I'm so glad they don't rust out here
Quite clearly you haven't had to deal with bolts severly rusted in the sleeve. I have beat on them with a sledge hammer, hit them with a air chisel, tried to force them out with a huge C clamp and sockets till I twisted the C-Clamp itself and then finally cut them off. I retain the scars of hitting the cutting wheel against the back of my hand at least 10 years later. I ended up putting a 6" cutting wheel in my 4" cut off tool to get enough depth to cut all the way through the sleve and bolt. No hospital run or anything. The cuts did't even bleed. But after washing my hands it was clear my skin was no longer normal. I guess it cautherized the wound as it made it. Good thing it didn't get deep enough to get the vein.
I can't recommend using a 6" cutting wheel with the guard removed like I did.
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06:22 PM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17104 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
Quite clearly you haven't had to deal with bolts severly rusted in the sleeve. I have beat on them with a sledge hammer, hit them with a air chisel, tried to force them out with a huge C clamp and sockets till I twisted the C-Clamp itself and then finally cut them off. I retain the scars of hitting the cutting wheel against the back of my hand at least 10 years later. I ended up putting a 6" cutting wheel in my 4" cut off tool to get enough depth to cut all the way through the sleve and bolt. No hospital run or anything. The cuts did't even bleed. But after washing my hands it was clear my skin was no longer normal. I guess it cautherized the wound as it made it. Good thing it didn't get deep enough to get the vein.
I can't recommend using a 6" cutting wheel with the guard removed like I did.
Quite clearly you have no idea what I do all day long.
I agree with the air chissel crowd. Somethings got to give. As long as theres electricity to keep the compressor going you got a chance. Once you start don't give up!! Organize a "Tag Team" if you have to. She'll come eventually.
Spoon
------------------ Two yeast spent their entire life "about 2 days" discussing what the purpose of life could be and not once did they even come close to the fact that they were making champagne. Quoted by: Unknown
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11:42 PM
Dec 9th, 2010
Dennis LaGrua Member
Posts: 15943 From: Hillsborough, NJ U.S.A. Registered: May 2000
If they are stuck we just cut the bolts with a carbide wheel, then knock out the rubber center and replace the bushing with poly. It can take hours to try and disloge the front cradle bolts, minutes to do it this way.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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09:05 AM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17104 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
Some grease on a fresh metal sawzall blade makes very quick work of the front cradle. Cut between the "ears" coming off the body and the cradle, they dont last more than a minute or 2. 4 cuts and less than 10 minutes later, you are done without "getting lucky" and having the bolts come free of the sleeves inside.
I have tried every thing listed above and no lock. i searched and searched with no lock. i cant get this bolts out have tried over 3 weeks. even tried a torch and ideas. going to try and get a 4 or 6in cut off wheel and try that again. nothing is cutting the sleeve. thank you
Could you cut the cradle? I thinking about buying a new cradle, and mounting the new motor on it.. before pulling the old one
Sure you can cut whatever you want. But sooner or later you WILL need to cut the bolt that mounts the cradle to the body if you are ever going to put a cradle back in it. So I don't see anything gained by carving up the cradle. The two cuts that I did are just inside the frame flange, through a bit of the rubber bushing and through the center metal sleeve and bolt. Once the end of the bolt was off on both sides then the cradle is FREE. You WILL have to replace the bushings because you do cut into them. They also have a rusted bolt stuck in the sleeve in the middle of them.
[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 12-28-2010).]
i got the bolts out i grind them out with my dermal tool. i started lifting the car with two hyd jacks. the cradle is lifting on the pas side as i lift the car. i do not now if the cradle is rocking back or if there is something hold it to the frame i have the shock bolts and the cradle bolts out. thank you for the help.
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08:44 PM
Dec 29th, 2010
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17104 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
i just went thru this last week my passenger side was completely stuck in there! i actually had to cut the mounting tab off. so ya i tried everything vise grips and crow bars but in the end :-(
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12:54 AM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17104 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
i got mine out last wk with just a impact. car was supported on my lift and cradle was supported with my steel engine cart on steel/ball bearing casters. worked like a charm. but my bolts were not seized either... good luck.
The front inside mounting tab is just a piece of sheet metal A screwdriver would have it bent back from the bushing if the head was cut off.
i wish it was that easy i had a long crow bar on that thing and it was like rusted to the tab i had to cut the whole inner tab off but oh well its out now, all i gota do is weld it back in.
So put the tire iron into the front joint and pry it down. How much bolt is still catching on the the hanger?
i cut the bolt down to where it was just passed the outer surface of the ear. so it was in the ear about 1/32" in the ear the i moved the cradle around until it released it.
thank you every body will work on it more later
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09:38 AM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17104 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
I have yet to do mine, hopefully they come loose on the first try. Planning on doing the job this winter and sure appreciate the advice about the front bolts. I'm sure the rears are just as exciting!
I also had the painful experience of getting these out. I used a 1/4 drill bit and elec. drill to drill into the rubber. This would grab and jerk my hands around. It took 2 evenings to get these out and I have torches, air chisel, etc. I did not try cutting the bolts at all. Eventually enough rubber is removed to get the bushing out. Good luck.