86 (not that it should matter) - anyways I am having a problem with the left rear axle nut always coming loose. I have replaced the nut a few times, yet it still is detemined to come loose.

Any suggestions or should I just double-nut it?

Thanks

quote Originally posted by Mickey_Moose: 86 (not that it should matter) - anyways I am having a problem with the left rear axle nut always coming loose. I have replaced the nut a few times, yet it still is detemined to come loose. Any suggestions or should I just double-nut it? Thanks

Have you tried locktight? If you do and it is still coming loose the stub shaft may have been yielded and stretched, this would cause the nut to keep backing off, the only solution if the stub has been yielded is replacement

Have you thought about staking the nut with a punch? And, had to ask, are you using a new nut?
Joe

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-11-2010).]

quote Originally posted by blander66: Have you tried locktight? If you do and it is still coming loose the stub shaft may have been yielded and stretched, this would cause the nut to keep backing off, the only solution if the stub has been yielded is replacement

No, probably should have - but figured that it should not really be needed as it is a locking nut - I do suppose that the shaft stub could have stretched.

quote Originally posted by josef644: Have you thought about staking the nut with a punch? And, had to ask, are you using a new nut? Joe

Well, I staked it today and will see what happens, just getting tired of this.

Yes, I did install several new nuts (this is the 4th one to be exact) and YES they are the proper locking nuts.

[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 11-11-2010).]

Are you using the proper nut? I should be a locking style nut, the last couple of threads will be distorted where the inner diameter is not round. If you are using a nut without locking threads, those are designed for use with another part that slips over the nut and is retained with a cotter pin.

[This message has been edited by TONY_C (edited 11-11-2010).]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned this yet. The nut coming loose usually means it is not torqued enough. You need 200 foot-pounds, and it's not that hard to do. If you weigh 200 pounds, put a breaker bar on the nut and stand on it one foot out. If you weigh 150 pounds, stand 1.5 foot out, 100 pounds, 2 feet out, etc...
Also the nut should NOT be the staked kind -- that is, with threads only through part of the inside. It should be threaded all the way through.

quote Originally posted by TopNotch: I'm surprised no one has mentioned this yet. The nut coming loose usually means it is not torqued enough. You need 200 foot-pounds, and it's not that hard to do. If you weigh 200 pounds, put a breaker bar on the nut and stand on it one foot out. If you weigh 150 pounds, stand 1.5 foot out, 100 pounds, 2 feet out, etc... Also the nut should NOT be the staked kind -- that is, with threads only through part of the inside. It should be threaded all the way through.

Yes, torqued to 200 ft-lbs and yes it has the threads all the way through - the nuts are exactly the same as the originals ones were that came off when the bearings were replaced (the bearings came with new nuts) and yes they are the lock nuts with the 'modified' threads - which is why this is am issue as I don't see any reason why it is not working on the left side (the right side is just fine).

As I mentioned - I staked the nut this time and if it is still a problem in the future (winter now, so not sure how much I will drive the car) I will have to verify the threads and try some locktight with another new nut.

Thanks to all for the input. :cheers:

You should not need to stake, locktite, etc. Something is Wrong.

Use Correct Nut and torque it to spec.

See my cave, Axle.

If you use right nut and torque to spec then nut still back off...
Check axle. Take axle out and see if a crack started.
Check bearing is good. Bearing need axle load to keep from separating.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

That nut should never come loose, unless you lean on it with a breaker bar.

I would definitely check the threads on the axle shaft for damage. If those are fine, the next thing to check would be the wheel bearing/hub assembly. Make sure it's firmly bolted to the knuckle, and the bearings aren't worn out. Also, make sure the knuckle hasn't cracked.

One more thing: check to see if the washer under the axle nut is deforming. It's a long shot, but is easy to check.

[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 11-11-2010).]

Those axles nuts must be VERY TIGHT and to get them this tight the car needs to be on the ground with the wheels blocked. Then a 1/2" torque wrench or long breaker bar is used. A standard impact gun will not provide sufficient tightening torque.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

I know this isn't going to be a popular post but if one was to go around to any garages and service stations and watch mechanics, you will rarely see them using a torque wrench to tighten axle nuts or suspension components like ball joints etc. I'm not saying it's the preferred way but that's the reality of it. A lot of mechanics get payed by the work they do, not by the hour, so speed is everything. Looking up torque specs is not something they will do when they can just use an impact wrench. An axle nut requires around 200 lb-ft, any good 1/2" impact gun can do that.

quote Originally posted by TONY_C: I know this isn't going to be a popular post but if one was to go around to any garages and service stations and watch mechanics, you will rarely see them using a torque wrench to tighten axle nuts or suspension components like ball joints etc. I'm not saying it's the preferred way but that's the reality of it. A lot of mechanics get payed by the work they do, not by the hour, so speed is everything. Looking up torque specs is not something they will do when they can just use an impact wrench. An axle nut requires around 200 lb-ft, any good 1/2" impact gun can do that.

heh - for the record, yes I torqued the nut to the proper spec (said so above) using a torque wrench (I always use the proper tools vs. 'estimating').

Again, thanks for all for the replies, I guess I will pull it apart and have a close look at the axle...thanks again.

Cheers,

I know this is an old post however this is standard if you take the car to the track a Moroso Park in florida the nut will back off do to the track banking and turns. We used blue lock tite and this still happens at another track. THe final solution was to drill it and cotter pin it we destroyed hubs and axles prior

quote Originally posted by TONY_C: I know this isn't going to be a popular post but if one was to go around to any garages and service stations and watch mechanics, you will rarely see them using a torque wrench to tighten axle nuts or suspension components like ball joints etc. I'm not saying it's the preferred way but that's the reality of it. A lot of mechanics get payed by the work they do, not by the hour, so speed is everything. Looking up torque specs is not something they will do when they can just use an impact wrench. An axle nut requires around 200 lb-ft, any good 1/2" impact gun can do that.

Yes.... That way the hubs go dead there after. Maybe a few day/weeks or some months... Many Hubs don't like it too loose or too tight. And China Hubs maybe cheap but fail hub can be less tolerance for lazy service people.

quote Originally posted by loudecuz: I know this is an old post however this is standard if you take the car to the track a Moroso Park in florida the nut will back off do to the track banking and turns. We used blue lock tite and this still happens at another track. THe final solution was to drill it and cotter pin it we destroyed hubs and axles prior

Race? You have to use cotter? Did you use New axle nut? And Torque to Spec? Fiero and many other needs New nut. Treat the nut as one time use only.
Even then you may have to use cotter or safety wire on nut/bolt for racing.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)