Hi Guys

Just finished throwing out the Charcoal Can, Cruise Ctrl, & PVC valve cover pipes since everything was on its way out anyways, and in an attempt to clean up the Engine Bay on my 86 Fiero V6.

Just looking to toss some ideas & pix around of shortened vacuum lines that others have done in the past for comparison.


Thanks
Dave M.

What are you trying to say? You still have a stock 2.8? You want the things to work right but you don't want vacuum lines???

hey there. I don't want & don't need those things noted, and now that those are out of the engine bay, instead of leaving the plastic vacuum lines that ran to those things and have them capped, I might as well simplify the vacuum hoses left over and shorten them.

Just wanted to see how others ended up cleaning up their engine bays-leftover vacuum lines after removing the Charcoal Can, Cruise Ctrl, PVC valve cover pipes.

p/s yes, its still a stock 2.8 v6

[This message has been edited by n_tensetuning (edited 10-27-2010).]

Well, heres my 3.4 with a digital cruise control system, plus other things. I think I only left one original line on, which was the one going to the MAP sensor and FPR, and upper intake. the one by the "fiero" goes to my boost gauge inside the cabin, and the line line where the PCV was, went to the 4T60's vacuum sensor.

[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 10-27-2010).]

Not trying to push the issue here, but I would recommend you keep the Charcoal air canister... the "Fuel Evaporative System."

It doesn't have ANY effect whatsoever on your car's performance, but it does help starting, and is also somewhat of a safety feature. All it does is capture the gas vapors from the gas tank, and sends them right back into the car's intake when you try to restart it. It's especially good if you plan to keep your car in the garage... (where the fuel vapors might accumilate in the garage when parked).

------------------
Todd,
2008 Jeep Patriot Limited 4x2
2002 Ford Explorer Sport 2dr 4x2
2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter

...but if you are going to delete the charcoal canister anyway (seems like it was already done), I wouldn't cap it.

Let the vapor line vent to atmosphere, to avoid building pressure in the fuel tank.

And as far as PCV, you might as well keep it, since even if you remove everything PCV related, you'll still have a gaping hole on the rear valve cover.

Might as well stuff a breather in there, and then on the front valve cover, install the PCV valve with a vacuum line to the plenum. It won't be noticeable. See Blacktree's post in this thread:
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/081032.html

[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 10-29-2010).]

Hey mattwa. How long have you just had breather filters on ur valve cover? Do you have one on the rear also?? Have any isses with oil seeping on the cover?? I'm quite curious my s/c engine I'm building I'm figuring how I should remove the pcv and rear breather

well..... after removing the charcoal canister, pvc (used K&N valve breathers instead), and the cruise control..... I am unable to get the car to stay on.

The car will fire right up, but dies in 2-3secs or if I give it gas.

Anyone else experience this?
I know I'm getting spark as the car fires up, and I'm registering 44psi Fuel Press. on my gauge, and the car ran before, but with a very high idle.


Look forward to hearing ideas

Still got a vac line on the fuel pressure regulator ? Any open ended vac lines ?

Does your SES light on your dash come on when you turn the key to on?

If not you might have unplugged the reset connector for the ECM and left it open. It's on an orange wire that comes out of the engine harness, then goes to two connectors plugged together. It then goes back into the engine harness. It is the main battery feed for the ECM.

It's by my positive battery terminal in this picture

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 11-24-2010).]

The PCV system allows the engine to suck in some air through the PCV valve at idle. When you deleted the PCV system, you removed that source of air. The ECM is probably having trouble adjusting for that. Hence the bad idle. You may be able to adjust the idle screw on the throttle body to compensate.

Not to preach or anything, but I personally would not remove the PCV system. The vapors that float around in the crankcase are volatile, and if allowed to accumulate, can be a fire hazard.

Well...finally figured it out....loosened up the idle air speed valve and got the car running with a high idle.... then jumped terminals A & B on the ADL and did the procedure and got the idle down to about 2,000rpms..... can't get it to lower.

No vacuum leaks, the only vacuum lines line are the line from the egr valve & solenoid, & fuel press. regulator, & map sensor.

I think it's time to remove the anti-tamper cap on the throttle body to lower the idle down ; )


Currently, running a CAI CRX intake, no pvc (mini k&n valve cover breathers), no charcoal cannister, no cruise control, Ocelot exhaust (no cat)

Dave M

That adjustment should not have to be tampered with.
It's set at the factory where it needs to be,no reason you should ever need to adjust.
You'll simply be covering up a symptom,instead figure out what you changed/altered that made the idle like that.
Deleting that stuff shouldn't have done it,i've deleted the same stuff on both OBDI and OBDII vehicles with no real issues.

The factory adjustment of that screw was to have the car idle at 500 rpm with the IAC closed. If somehow that screw is holding the throttle open (you should be able to see it open) enough to run at 2,000 rpm then yes the screw would need adjustment. I doubt the screw moved without someone moving it. If the cap is still on, I doubt it is that far out of adjustment.

The things that can leak vacuum enough to make the idle that high

EGR to Manifold Tube - If you did the block off you eliminated that as a possibility

The IAC not working properly. You can put your finger on the IAC feed hole and see if the IAC is allowing that much air in. The IAC feed hole is just before the throttle plate on the bottom of the throttle body. With the intake tube removed you can easily put your finger over the hole as the engine idles.

The IAC to Manifold tube. The tube that connects to the hole right below the large hole in the throttle body. The throttle body should have a rubber o-ring in a groove where the IAC to Manifold tube inserts

A leak at the intake manifold gaskets.