I wanted to mount my alt in the stock location but it seems that a would have to have the PS pump or a delete pully in place to do this and keep the belt contacting each pully enough for it not to slip.

Loyde has done this with no PS pump or delete pully here on the first pic....
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/102506.html

My concern is that it doesnt look like the belt is covering enough of the balancer this way.

Also from what I have seen is when people move the alt to the PS location, they remove the stock alt. bracket because the belt will hit one of the coolant tubes.
If people are removing this and blocking off the ports in the block and intake, are you losing your heater or are they routing it a different way?

Any ideas on what I should do? I do want heat and a/c and do not want the belt to slip.

Thanks, Steve

Wow, your right! I would not run my belt like in that pic/link you posted... Looks like the belt is making contact with 25% or less of the crank pully!

Anyone? Im still wondering about the coolant tubes on the alt bracket. Do you lose your heater removing this or does everyone route the heater a different way?

Steve

quote Originally posted by JumpStart: Anyone? Im still wondering about the coolant tubes on the alt bracket. Do you lose your heater removing this or does everyone route the heater a different way? Steve

Do a search for "3800 heater" and you will find more info then you know what to do with it

You can leave the Alt in the stock location and run your belt as shown in the picture in the link....It will cause no problems, the belt will not slip and this method has been tested for many many years by many many people...The last 2 swaps I did used this same method and there have been 0 problems with belt slip, gremlins, ghost ect.......One of the swaps is a modded 3800 that has been down the track and hammered on since it hit the road......Once again you will have no belt slip issues with running you belt as shown in the picture and you will not have to worry about any extra pullies....

What Mstangs said. I have it routed this way on the swap we just finished - no issues and this car gets flogged on constantly. I plugged both the heater ports at the bracket - this is in an 88 and I modified the Fiero fill/TStat neck so one heater hose goes to the fill neck and the other is tapped into the passenger side coolant tube.

quote Originally posted by JumpStart: Anyone? Im still wondering about the coolant tubes on the alt bracket. Do you lose your heater removing this or does everyone route the heater a different way? Steve

Just keep the stock Alt mount and use the tubes that are used in the stock loaction.....

I had a customer bring me a car that had the belt routing done in the way noted in the link provided by the OP. The stock alt bracket (w/ integral tensioner) and alternator was still installed on the engine, and a shorter belt had been installed. I noticed that the belt routed in this way was hitting one of the studs that the crank sensor shield attached to (located just to the side of the balancer pulley between the balancer and oil filter housing) on this car that was brought to me. So anyone considering using this routing setup needs to make sure the belt does not rub on this stud or anything else.

I have since removed this setup and replaced it with a modified 99+ alt and bracket setup so it can accept a custom-built dog-bone bracket that will bolt right up to the 99+ alt bracket like what is shown below:





The way I do my setup allows you to keep the stock alt mount bracket installed and use the heater hose passages/hookups provided by it. This bracket also has an internal bypass circuit (stock GM design) to help prevent excessive pressure from building up in the heater circuit should the heater core or lines in the car become restricted for some reason. The only modification required to the tensioner on this bracket is some reclocking work (requires removal, drilling, tapping, etc).



Then I hook up a remote-fill point so I can retain the stock t-stat housing that comes on the 3800 to keep things looking "clean"...




-ryan

------------------
7+ years on this same swap -- NO engine or transmission failures...

Custom GM OBD1 & OBD2 Tuning | Engine Conversions & more | www.gmtuners.com

Thanks for the replies. I had also noticed the stud interferance with the belt but this gives me something to go on now.

Thanks again, Steve

quote Originally posted by JumpStart: Thanks for the replies. I had also noticed the stud interferance with the belt but this gives me something to go on now. Thanks again, Steve

U can just cut the stud off.....will cause no issues.....