I have bought an engine start button that is rated to 6-7 amps. My question is how to connect it; as far I can tell there are maybe two points where it can be connected. One to the top of the steering column and the second to the clutch pedal switch (I have a 4spd manual). I think that there is no relay to our cars so the button will not hold direct the power.
You have to decide how you want the starter button to work. For starters, you'll have to have the key in the RUN position to operate the car. The button will only be able to replace the last little twist of the key to START. Next, you have to decide whether you want to keep the clutch pedal switch operational or not. If not, then simply remove the big yellow and purple wires from the switch and splice them together. Lastly, since the button won't carry the electrical load of the starter solenoid, you'll need to wire in a relay yourself. I'm not sure what the current draw is on the solenoid but you'd probably be safe with a relay rated for 30 amps DC on the load circuit. The way to wire the relay is to disconnect one of the two large red wires leading to the ignition switch (terminals B2 or B3) and the big yellow wire (terminal S) from the ignition switch. These two wires need to be routed to your new relay terminals 30 and 87 (NOT 87a). This is your load circuit. Finally, you need to create your energizing circuit by splicing one of your button wires to any circuit that's Hot in Run, and the other button wire to terminal 85 of your relay. Lastly, run a wire from terminal 86 of your relay to a good grounding point.
Wired this way, you'll need to have the key in the ignition turned to RUN, your clutch pedal whichever way you wired it, and the start button pushed to crank the engine.
[This message has been edited by Bloozberry (edited 10-08-2010).]
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08:20 AM
SMTHGT Member
Posts: 1075 From: Seagoville , Tx. Registered: Mar 2010
I have been running a push button switch for sometime on my car to fool theives and friends.
I have had no problem with it burning out or anything and it was being used quite frequently to crank and crank my car when its engine harness was crap so i feel confident in its integrity. I do however keep an extra in the center stack just in case.
Wire it like this: One end to a hot line such as your battery or something close to the ammperage of the starter solenoid, to the switch, then to the solenoid itself. thats the way i have it done do to my freaky igniton switch and my lazyness in going out to the Junkyard to get a new column XD
I WILL someday replace it but i like having my Non tilt steering column
You have to decide how you want the starter button to work. For starters, you'll have to have the key in the RUN position to operate the car. The button will only be able to replace the last little twist of the key to START. Next, you have to decide whether you want to keep the clutch pedal switch operational or not. If not, then simply remove the big yellow and purple wires from the switch and splice them together. Lastly, since the button won't carry the electrical load of the starter solenoid, you'll need to wire in a relay yourself. I'm not sure what the current draw is on the solenoid but you'd probably be safe with a relay rated for 30 amps DC on the load circuit. The way to wire the relay is to disconnect one of the two large red wires leading to the ignition switch (terminals B2 or B3) and the big yellow wire (terminal S) from the ignition switch. These two wires need to be routed to your new relay terminals 30 and 87 (NOT 87a). This is your load circuit. Finally, you need to create your energizing circuit by splicing one of your button wires to any circuit that's Hot in Run, and the other button wire to terminal 85 of your relay. Lastly, run a wire from terminal 86 of your relay to a good grounding point.
Wired this way, you'll need to have the key in the ignition turned to RUN, your clutch pedal whichever way you wired it, and the start button pushed to crank the engine.
Thank you, this was exact the info I waned to know. A+ for the detailed info. I have also an aftermarket button for the trunk lid and defroster, they are also rated to 5-6 amps, do you know the load for these and will I need relay also for them?
Thanks for the +! You'll definitely need a relay for the rear defroster since that circuit is normally protected by the 30A power accessory circuit breaker in the fuse block. You should probably use one for the trunk popper too although GM only started using trunk relays in '85 on the Fiero... in '84 they were wired straight to the switch. In later models the circuit is protected by the 20A courtesy/lid fuse, so it's a safe bet that your 5A - 6A trunk switch will be at or near it's current loading capacity too.
For the defroster, GM used a relay that had an integral timer so that it wouldn't stay on forever if you forgot to turn it off while driving. I have a part number somewhere I can get you later today if you want... they're probably still available. The first time you turned the defroster on, it stayed on for something like 8 mins, and then every subsequent time you turned it on it would only stay on for either 5 or 3 minutes provided you didn't turn off the ignition. You may want to go this route and can probably pick one up through the mall section if you can't find one new.
Thanks for the +! You'll definitely need a relay for the rear defroster since that circuit is normally protected by the 30A power accessory circuit breaker in the fuse block. You should probably use one for the trunk popper too although GM only started using trunk relays in '85 on the Fiero... in '84 they were wired straight to the switch. In later models the circuit is protected by the 20A courtesy/lid fuse, so it's a safe bet that your 5A - 6A trunk switch will be at or near it's current loading capacity too.
For the defroster, GM used a relay that had an integral timer so that it wouldn't stay on forever if you forgot to turn it off while driving. I have a part number somewhere I can get you later today if you want... they're probably still available. The first time you turned the defroster on, it stayed on for something like 8 mins, and then every subsequent time you turned it on it would only stay on for either 5 or 3 minutes provided you didn't turn off the ignition. You may want to go this route and can probably pick one up through the mall section if you can't find one new.
I have an 86 GT Fiero with stock defroster and trunk lid, so it already has the relays you mentioned. I am making a custom interior that’s why I need to know if the switches I bought will hold the load. Since the relays already exists, my new buttons will triggers them and the load for this function will be low. Am I right to this? I don’t have tools to check the amp draw on the switch. Thanks in advance.
Chris
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06:58 PM
Carver1 Member
Posts: 2843 From: Edgewood, New Mexico Registered: Nov 2000
I ran mine straight to the starter solenoid. It will crank with the key out of the ignition, but mine is an auto. Most of my cars are this way. No problems.
------------------ 88 GT "The Stray" 4.9L 86 SE ChopTop 4 Speed 3.4 "The Short Bus" SOLD! 07 Solstice GXP 2.0L turbo 08 GMC Sierra 3500 Duramax Dually. 05 Tahoe on 20's (Kid hauler)
Since the relays already exists, my new buttons will triggers them and the load for this function will be low. Am I right to this?
Yes... the current draw from the relay coils is extremely small (in the milliamps), nowhere near the limit of your switch's capability. That's the whole purpose for using relays in the first place.
First I dropped the steering column to access the ignition switch, it was easy, there are 2 bolts and 2 nuts that hold it.
Then removed the yellow wire and open the first clip that holds the insulation of the cable (green arrow). Removed the insulation with my soldering gun, cleaned it well and weld the extension wire for the relay. Did the same for the red.
Back in place.
Connect the wires like Bloozberry says and you are ready. The way I done it I have key and engine button functional, this way I can always start the car in case the relay fails.
