When I start the car, (86 Fiero GT, 2.8) and the engine is cold, it starts normally, then rapidly idles way down till it almost dies, the computer senses this I guess, and the engine rev's up. Every now and then, it will idle down too low before the computer catches it, and stall, and I have to restart it. This will repeat itself for a good few minutes till the engine warms up.
After it warms up just a bit, it settles into a nice smooth idle, with no missing ect.
I can not for the life of me find any reason to explain why it is doing this.
Engine history:
- 2.8 Crate engine with 2,000 miles on it.
- All new parts on the engine less than 1 running hour old to include: New A/C compressor, starter, alternator, distributor cap, rotor, plugs, high-end wires, Fuel Pump, module, Intake sensor, O2 sensor, coolant hoses, thermostat, and tons of other stuff not relevant to this....
The engine has been timed, following the "paper clip procedure" and is right on the mark.
Any ideas?
[This message has been edited by JohnWPB (edited 09-18-2010).]
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06:00 PM
PFF
System Bot
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17103 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
FWIW, my 88 2.8 does exactly the same thing except the ECM almost always catches the engine before it stalls....except when it's been sitting for more than a week (or two) and then it will stall once or twice before it will maintain a steady idle. Even when it stalls, within a minute or less of operation ( or help from pressing the throttle) it will maintain a steady idle or restart.
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08:31 PM
Sep 18th, 2010
donuteater306 Member
Posts: 710 From: San Francisco, CA USA Registered: Feb 2010
With all of the work you've done i would guess you have...but if you have not, clean the throttle body and remove/clean the Idle Air Control motor and where it seats in the throttle body? Do NOT push the IAC pin back in. Just put some brake clean on a rag and wipe the end of it.
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03:01 AM
JohnWPB Member
Posts: 5222 From: West Palm Beach, Florida Registered: May 2009
I am not a certified mechanic, but I can usually reason things through... so my thinking on it being the fuel pump. Is this possible? The fuel pump (also new, with less than an hour it on it) primes when I turn the key on. When it starts, and idles down really low, the computer catches it, and revs it back up. It it were the fuel pump, would there still be enough pressure / fuel to "rev it back up" when the computer catches it?
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06:42 AM
JohnWPB Member
Posts: 5222 From: West Palm Beach, Florida Registered: May 2009
With all of the work you've done i would guess you have...but if you have not, clean the throttle body and remove/clean the Idle Air Control motor and where it seats in the throttle body? Do NOT push the IAC pin back in. Just put some brake clean on a rag and wipe the end of it.
Actually I did do this, and just didn't mention it. I used a scotch bright and some brake cleaner and cleaned all the cables, Throttle, Cruise Cable, ect... and then WD-40'd them.
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06:44 AM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17103 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
Checking the fuel pressure would be the first thing I would do. $15.99 for a fuel pressure gauge for injected engines at Harbor Freight.
If the fuel pressure were fluctuating like that the engine would follow.
I don't know that the fuel pressure is your problem, just that would be the place I would look at first to either identify it, or eliminate it as the cause of the problem.
[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 09-18-2010).]
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07:14 AM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17103 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
Do this after the engine has warmed a bit - take the intake tube off of the throttle body. Look at the hole at the bottom of the throttle body. This hole is the feel for the IAC (Idle Air Control) The idle air control is the large round thing with the square connector near the throttle. With the engine idling put your finger partially over the hole and slow the idle of the engine with your finger. Do this for a while to allow the ECM turn out the IAC in response to the slow idle. Then pull your finger off and hear the engine run fast for a while and how long it takes the ECM to adjust the ICM to get the idle back to where it should be. The response time of the ECM/ICM IS slow.
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07:25 AM
jaskispyder Member
Posts: 21510 From: Northern MI Registered: Jun 2002
You might also want to check your throttle stop screw. The screw is used to keep the engine running when the IAC isn't in the right place yet. Start and warm the engine first and turn it off. Then jumper A-B and turn the key on. The ECM will fully close the IAC. Turn the key off and remove the jumper. Then unplug the IAC. Then start the car and adjust the throttle stop screw to achive a 500 rpm idle. Then re-attach the IAC and see if it cures your problem at the next cold start.
Then pull your finger off and hear the engine run fast for a while and how long it takes the ECM to adjust the ICM to get the idle back to where it should be. The response time of the ECM/ICM IS slow.
I think phonedawgz meant IAC, not ICM here.
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07:33 AM
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JohnWPB Member
Posts: 5222 From: West Palm Beach, Florida Registered: May 2009
Ok, thanks, I have a few things to test now.... I will post back any findings. Thanks again!
Try swapping out the battery for a known good one. If that's not possible, put a charger on your battery overnight, give it a full charge prior to starting. May wish to have the battery tested too. If you haven't already done so, check the primary positive feed from the alternator up to the main terminal then up to the battery. Double check your grounding strap? How many accessories are plugged into the car overnight? Check for battery drains. See what I'm getting at here?
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09:36 AM
Blacktree Member
Posts: 20770 From: Central Florida Registered: Dec 2001
You might also want to check your throttle stop screw. The screw is used to keep the engine running when the IAC isn't in the right place yet. Start and warm the engine first and turn it off. Then jumper A-B and turn the key on. The ECM will fully close the IAC. Turn the key off and remove the jumper. Then unplug the IAC. Then start the car and adjust the throttle stop screw to achive a 500 rpm idle. Then re-attach the IAC and see if it cures your problem at the next cold start.
DING-DING-DING-DING!!!
As a matter of fact, I just did exactly the same thing to fix exactly the same problem on a customer's car. If the idle set screw has been messed with, this will most likely be your problem.
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02:02 PM
JohnWPB Member
Posts: 5222 From: West Palm Beach, Florida Registered: May 2009
The battery is brand new, and nothing seems to be draining it overnight. When I turn the key on, I have a good 12v after letting the car sit for a couple of days.
+1 for the throttle screw... that sounds like where I am going to start. Thanks!
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11:09 PM
Sep 19th, 2010
SNAPPY829 Member
Posts: 346 From: Cary, Illinois Registered: Mar 2009
I'm also having this problem. Only when it's cold. Fuel pump builds pressure. Engine turns over, starts, typically dies unless the throttled is tapped once or twice. No matter what the culprit is or isn't, I'm keeping an eye on this thread.
Edit: Didn't realize the last reply date - I assume the issue was solved...so what was it !
[This message has been edited by Navras (edited 10-17-2010).]
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01:47 AM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17103 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
I'm also having this problem. Only when it's cold. Fuel pump builds pressure. Engine turns over, starts, typically dies unless the throttled is tapped once or twice. No matter what the culprit is or isn't, I'm keeping an eye on this thread.
Edit: Didn't realize the last reply date - I assume the issue was solved...so what was it !
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09:57 AM
Oct 18th, 2010
Hulki U. My-BFF Member
Posts: 5949 From: Back home in East Berlin, PA Registered: Apr 2008