Well, I just finished up my 3800 SC installation in my 87 Fiero. The engine was from a Buick Riv 96, had 80K. I removed the engine and it ran great in the old car. I initially fired up the Fiero without the exhaust and it fired. I quickly shut it down and moved onto finishing the exhaust. After trying to fire the Fiero again, it would not start. I did all the wiring myself, and I am pretty confident that it is okay. I went over it again, and it appears fine. I know I have fuel pressure, I can hear the pump running and the relay click on.

One thing that is peculiar, is that when I turn the ignition and prior to starter turning the engine I hear a zap like sound. Sound like a spark, or something shorting but I can not see back there. Is this just the injectors, ICM, or something of concern? I dont know. I checked the grounds, and visually there is nothing shorting that I can see. My coil pack is located in the stock battery location (bat up front) and I have new plug wires and they are all connected properly. No HV is leaking out that I can tell.

I dont have a code reader. So I dont know about any codes, and I guess I have to get one. In the true hot-rodder spirit I would like to get this running with just quickly with the resources I have which are limited. I've re-checked my vacuum lines, wiring, and know this is somehting simple but I am not the greatest at diagnosing. Anything I can do? Suggestions?

I dont have a ton of time this weekend, and I have friends and family coming in this weekend. God, it's so embarrassing to have such a cool car sitting on jackstands. I would love to fire this animal up just so they can hear it. If it matters, it would boost the self-esteem of the Fiero community, and also do me some good also. (Really I am not that bad of a mechanic, but as usual I have ventured into unknown turf.

What did you do about the V.A.T.S. anti-theft system. Did you have it programmed out of the PCM or do you have a bypass module.thanks

quote Originally posted by RotrexFiero: I know I have fuel pressure, I can hear the pump running and the relay click on.

Respectfully hearing the fuel pump run and the relay click in no way means you have fuel pressure. A fuel pressure gauge is the way you determine you have fuel pressure. You might want to assume you have fuel pressure but unless you actually check it you simply don't know.

quote . No HV is leaking out that I can tell. I dont have a code reader. So I dont know about any codes, and I guess I have to get one. In the true hot-rodder spirit I would like to get this running with just quickly with the resources I have which are limited. I've re-checked my vacuum lines, wiring, and know this is somehting simple but I am not the greatest at diagnosing. Anything I can do? Suggestions?

Check for spark

Okay, Sinister did my PCM program so I know, at least hope, he programmed that out.

I do have a fuel pressure gauge to install. Which fuel line does it go on? Larger one or the smaller one?

I can check for spark tomorrow.

quote Originally posted by RotrexFiero: Okay, Sinister did my PCM program

Your problem isn't the tune, then.

An engine needs *basically* 3 things to run...fuel, spark, and air. And electricity getting to the ECM in the case of fuel injection...make sure you have good fuel and spark before you start trying the harder stuff. There are plenty of easy ways to check for spark. As far as fuel pressure, if you're getting fuel at all through the injectors and spark, it should at least TRY to fire...are you getting no fire at all or is it trying to start?

[This message has been edited by MadDanceSkillz (edited 09-03-2010).]

Spray a little fuel into the intake and see if it fires up.Did you remember to put fuel in the tank?If this project has been on stands for some time Im guessing that you may have rust in the tank,clogging the fuel pump.

Okay, I heeded your advice and checked for spark and fuel. I had spark, and so I thought it was odd that after cranking for a while I did not smell fuel. I checked the fuses and found I had a blown fuel pump fuse. I replaced it and it started up. It idled for a while and then the orange light (SES) came on.

I drove it outside the garage and then let it idle. It was idling a little high, and then I shut it down. It would not start again, just cranked. Yes, I checked the fuses again. I even tried to disconnect the battery. I pushed it in the garage, then came home about four hours later and it started up again.

I have to get a code reader. This I know.

Also, it appears the battery is not charging. Could this be the weird sound I am hearing right as I turn to the key? I hear a static spark, like something is shorting though I can not locate it. Is this normal?

What is a decently priced OBD II code reader?

I had a problem with mine only starting once. Unplug the MAP sensor. It sounds screwy but my MAP was either defective or from the wrong car or something. It's a long shot but it's something simple and free to try.

But that zap sound is definitely not normal. You need to track that down ASAP.
Your fuel pressure should be read from the supply line, which will be larger than the return line.

Check to make sure that your battery cables are tight to the battery and to the starter and engine block. Also check to make sure the cable on your alternator is tight. If any one of these connections is loose, it can spark causing the sound you are hearing.

You can pick up a OBD2 code reader at your local Autozone or Advance auto for $40-$80 depending on which one you buy.

I bought this one for $50 It comes with instructions on how to use it and also a booklet telling you what the codes mean.

[This message has been edited by JimmyS (edited 09-06-2010).]

Okay, I was fiddling late into the night. Here is what I realized.

First, my no charging issue is definitely because I completely forgot I have an aftermarket volt meter and eliminated the old one years ago. I wired my alt around the PCM. From my understanding it uses the volt light to regulate the alt and of course I dont have that light? Is this right?

Also, I wanted to get a OBD II code reader. My connector that I pulled from the 96 Riviera is 12 pin. Is this OBDII? My understanding is they are 16 pin connectors. I dont want to purchase the wrong one.

quote Originally posted by RotrexFiero: Okay, I was fiddling late into the night. Here is what I realized. First, my no charging issue is definitely because I completely forgot I have an aftermarket volt meter and eliminated the old one years ago. I wired my alt around the PCM. From my understanding it uses the volt light to regulate the alt and of course I dont have that light? Is this right? Also, I wanted to get a OBD II code reader. My connector that I pulled from the 96 Riviera is 12 pin. Is this OBDII? My understanding is they are 16 pin connectors. I dont want to purchase the wrong one.

As for the Alt, yes, depending on type. The Alternator needs the light to "turn on" a field current. The light bulb can be replaced with a resistor (330 ohm should work). The CS130 type does not need that.

-Dave

Adding: Your donor car should have had the 16 pin connector. Did you adapt the fiero ALDL connector to your harness? According to AllData, you should have this:

[This message has been edited by IFLYR22 (edited 09-06-2010).]

Looks like I have the wrong connector...Anyone have a OBDII connector?

As far as the replacing the light bulb with a resistor...what wattage resistor?

quote Originally posted by RotrexFiero: Looks like I have the wrong connector...Anyone have a OBDII connector? As far as the replacing the light bulb with a resistor...what wattage resistor?

They sell them on eBay. As for a solid scanner/code reader. If you own a laptop you can but an OBDII interface box that comes with the software for about $35.00 or if you feel like making the investment go with HP Tuners Tuning Suite. Its a $500 investment but you can also make a variety of tuning changes. WE have both here and surprisingly the $35 scanner one works OK but you can't data log all parameters with it.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Hey Dennis, Nice to hear from you. I got it running, but working out some issues.

I had to remove the flywheel cover. It was hitting the flywheel making a rapping sound. Thank god it was that, since I thought it was a bearing or something internal. Engine sounds great. Gotta get the alt on board, doing its job. I forgot I did not have the charge light and have an aftermarket volt guage.

Once I get everything worked out I will do that fuel pump upgrade!!! Will be calling you on that one. Carlisle in 10 months!!!

(Advance auto has a code reader on sale, like Jimmy mentioned above, for $50 till the end of the month.)