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Adding Remote Power Door Locks by YellowArtero
Started on: 08-27-2010 11:24 PM
Replies: 11
Last post by: MOBILE on 08-29-2010 01:20 AM
YellowArtero
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Report this Post08-27-2010 11:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for YellowArteroSend a Private Message to YellowArteroDirect Link to This Post
I've often benefited from many of the DIY projects I've seen on the forum. I figure it's about time I gave back. I got a new GT recently and it was looking quite tired despite being a very unmolested and low mileage car so I gave it a makeover. Since I really miss having power door locks and more importantly remote power door locks, I though I would share this little project.

Here is how I’ve done it



The kit I have used is from Princess Auto. You Canadian guys will recognize this place. I’ve used several kits over the years (JC Whitney comes to mind) and they all seem to use the same actuators so this probably applies to the majority.


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YellowArtero
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Report this Post08-27-2010 11:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for YellowArteroSend a Private Message to YellowArteroDirect Link to This Post
The kit has four actuators, but we only need two. Two actuators have a feature that if you unlock the front manually, the rear doors unlock as well but have more wires to them. We don’t need that either. Since the back actuators only have two wires, I use these. I hate extra wires.




Remove the door panels. I like to use the metal brace to mount the actuators. I tuck them in behind so they are protected from the door panel.



I use one of the actuators as a gauge where to drill holes. Put the screws supplied to fasten it in behind the brace. Bend the rod to meet up with the door lock rod ad use the fastener kit to join them. At this point I hook up the actuator to test whether the ‘throw’ will move the door lock rod to the unlock and lock position. Cut the wire about a foot from the control unit and connect to the actuators.



Here is another mounting option. It involves adding a bar across the door cutout. It gives a more direct push and pull on the lock rod. You will have to remove the mesh and do some bending of the door locking rod to attach the actuator rod. Prefer not to mess with that. The first is easier and the rod is more than strong enough to move the rod without bending.

[This message has been edited by YellowArtero (edited 08-27-2010).]

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YellowArtero
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Report this Post08-27-2010 11:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for YellowArteroSend a Private Message to YellowArteroDirect Link to This Post

YellowArtero

256 posts
Member since Mar 2004


With a wire (I like a soft aluminum one) fish the wire through the rubber ‘wire tube’ that goes from the door to the foot well. Tie the wires with the power window and mirrors wires so they are nice and tidy.



Remove the bottom panel under the steering wheel. There is more than enough room up there for the tiny control unit.



Here you see how short you can cut the wires so you don’t have such a mess under the dash.
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YellowArtero
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Report this Post08-27-2010 11:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for YellowArteroSend a Private Message to YellowArteroDirect Link to This Post

YellowArtero

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Member since Mar 2004


Find a good 12v constant power source. I’ve used a connector here. Usually I like to solder connections but I’ve seen so many articles why crimping is better. This might open up quite a debate. Anyway, I decided to practice my crimping skills here.



I used male and female connectors here because I had them! I thought just in case I to replace an actuator (I’ve got quite a few) I could just plug in a new one. Mind, I’ve never had one go in ten years.



The control unit tucks up nicely beside the steering column. I use zip ties here to keep it up.
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YellowArtero
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Report this Post08-27-2010 11:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for YellowArteroSend a Private Message to YellowArteroDirect Link to This Post

YellowArtero

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Member since Mar 2004


Put the panel back and hide any wires out of the way. I like things nice and tidy.



Now I can look at the car out in the driveway and lock and unlock it as many times as I want. It's one of those hidden projects that makes the car so much nicer to have!
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07Hoffmannd
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Report this Post08-28-2010 12:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 07HoffmanndSend a Private Message to 07HoffmanndDirect Link to This Post
very cool. i didn't know it was so easy. someday ill probably do this. do you know much about proximity locks?
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YellowArtero
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Report this Post08-28-2010 07:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for YellowArteroSend a Private Message to YellowArteroDirect Link to This Post
No I don't but they would be cool to do. Not sure what the cost would be.
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07Hoffmannd
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Report this Post08-28-2010 01:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 07HoffmanndSend a Private Message to 07HoffmanndDirect Link to This Post
probly alot but im not really sure. i always thought proximity locks and a push buitton start would be cool. cause in most cars you still have to put the key in, then you can push button start it. which to me seems stupid. that defeats the purpose of push button start. but if you had proximity locks and a push button (remote start would be cool to) then you wouldnt have to put the key in at all. and no one could steal your car unless they had you with them. you could probably take the key ignition out too, so know one could even try to steal your car.

PS: i just looked for prices on proximity locks. cant find them anywhere)
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dobey
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Report this Post08-28-2010 02:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dobeySend a Private Message to dobeyDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 07Hoffmannd:
PS: i just looked for prices on proximity locks. cant find them anywhere)


There aren't really any aftermarket kits yet for it. Maybe one or two, and they only deal with the locks really, and are pretty expensive. You could use the system out of a new Vette or Caddy maybe, to get the locks and push button start, but you're going to need most of the electrics that come in the car, as they're pretty well integrated into the BCM and related modules.
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ltlfrari
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Report this Post08-28-2010 04:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ltlfrariClick Here to visit ltlfrari's HomePageSend a Private Message to ltlfrariDirect Link to This Post
When I did this on my first car I found this setup really does not work very well at all, the bend allows the rod to flex too much:

 
quote


Your second option worked a lot better because of the direct connection.
I really must get around to doing this on my current car sometime, or maybe one of those numeric door lock pads like they have on Fords. Then I could just leave all my stiff in the car when I am in the gym instead of having to carry my keys with me.

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Dave

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YellowArtero
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Report this Post08-28-2010 09:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for YellowArteroSend a Private Message to YellowArteroDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by ltlfrari:

When I did this on my first car I found this setup really does not work very well at all, the bend allows the rod to flex too much:


Your second option worked a lot better because of the direct connection.
I really must get around to doing this on my current car sometime, or maybe one of those numeric door lock pads like they have on Fords. Then I could just leave all my stiff in the car when I am in the gym instead of having to carry my keys with me.



Fortunately, I haven't had that problem. In testing on an earlier car I found that if you have the actuator rod attach too far back from the door lock guide (just behind the paper, you can just barely see it) the whole thing flexes too much. Putting the connector close to the guide seems to stop that flex. Nine years and still OK!
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MOBILE
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Report this Post08-29-2010 01:20 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MOBILESend a Private Message to MOBILEDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by ltlfrari:

When I did this on my first car I found this setup really does not work very well at all, the bend allows the rod to flex too much:


Your second option worked a lot better because of the direct connection.
I really must get around to doing this on my current car sometime, or maybe one of those numeric door lock pads like they have on Fords. Then I could just leave all my stiff in the car when I am in the gym instead of having to carry my keys with me.



I have done these in hundreds of cars including Fieros. Your right about the second option being better, however you guys are over thinking this too much. If you mount the actuator like option #1, put a 45 degree bend on each end of the rod near the ends, instead of those two 90 degree bends. The rod will not flex nearly as much. It will work great for years.

Chad

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Intercooled SC3800 II/III mated to a Getrag. 19's with 13" Brakes on all 4 corners. 5 years Avionics & 15 years Car Electronics.

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