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Whats the general strategy for spray painting? by hinesb1890
Started on: 08-13-2010 09:52 PM
Replies: 5
Last post by: Tuna Helper on 08-14-2010 07:56 AM
hinesb1890
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Report this Post08-13-2010 09:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hinesb1890Click Here to visit hinesb1890's HomePageSend a Private Message to hinesb1890Direct Link to This Post
I'm gonna start spraying my car tomorrow and I can't seem to find any information on how to attack each piece. I'm doing a panel off job and I am pretty confident with how to handle the flat parts but what about about curved parts like the bumper with recesses and such (also my gas cap assembly)?

edit to add: When is the right time to peel off tape where you masked off areas?

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[This message has been edited by hinesb1890 (edited 08-13-2010).]

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Khw
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Report this Post08-13-2010 10:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for KhwSend a Private Message to KhwDirect Link to This Post
By spray painting you mean with a rattle can or compressor and gun?
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hinesb1890
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Report this Post08-13-2010 11:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hinesb1890Click Here to visit hinesb1890's HomePageSend a Private Message to hinesb1890Direct Link to This Post
compressor and gun, there's no way I'd touch a rattle can with all the sanding I've done
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Dodgerunner
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Report this Post08-13-2010 11:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DodgerunnerClick Here to visit Dodgerunner's HomePageSend a Private Message to DodgerunnerDirect Link to This Post
Take your time and think before you start how you will do each panel. Even helps to do some mock passes over the panel without spraying so you have in your mind what your going to do. On bumpers just remember you want to keep the distance the same all the time even wrapping around the corners.
On the holes like where the reflectors set I pre sprayed in them right before I sprayed the complete bumper and they turned out well.
I removed the lid from the gas and painted it off car but unscrewed my assembly and pulled it out about an inch so the paint would be completely under the edge. It pulled out and stayed stuck out nice and tight with the cap taped off.
I really didn't have any place that taped made a line to worry about pulling it off. But if you do you want to wait until the surface is hard enough that any dirt will not stick that falls on it. You also don't want to pull the tape up as it can lift the paint with it. You want to carefully pull it back kind of parallel to the surface so the line is sheered off. Someone else might have a better idea on the tape but those are my thoughts.
I peeled mine off after about two hours using hardner in the paint but was carefull.


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Joseph Upson
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Report this Post08-14-2010 07:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Joseph UpsonSend a Private Message to Joseph UpsonDirect Link to This Post
Go over the gaps and seams with compressed air to dislodge any dust, or dirt that might be hidden waiting to get stirred up when you start spraying.
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Tuna Helper
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Report this Post08-14-2010 07:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Tuna HelperSend a Private Message to Tuna HelperDirect Link to This Post
Spray bomb or pro style? Either way, take your time. Prep is everything. Take slow, even passes, don't try to spray it all at once. Use many thin, even coats so it doesn't run or sag.
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