My cruise control has been disconnected since I put this engine in this past winter. I didn't hook the cable back up to the throttle because I had reason to believe that the cruise caused my old engine to over-rev which destroyed it. But that's a whole story on its own.

Anyway, I actually had some motivation tonight to take a look at it. I hooked everything back up and went for a drive. Nada. I got nothing at all. I can hear the vacuum release solenoid click every time I hit the brake pedal. I don't remember it doing that before. It doesn't matter what setting the cruise switch is on. I printed off the troubleshooting instructions from the service manual and ran through those. Everything checked out normal there. I checked the servo and it is holding vacuum. It is getting around 17" of vacuum at idle too.

At this point I only had two ideas left. I figured it would be the switch or the module. I probed the connector and checked the switch in every position. That checked out fine. Every single position was within .6 volts of battery voltage.

The only idea i have left at this point is that I have a bad cruise control module. Every site and article I have read says module failure is unheard of. Has anybody else heard of a module failure? Maybe my car just continues to be a freak of nature.

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Current vehicles:
1986 Fiero GT
1966 Ford Mustang Coupe

Click with the brake depressed - normal - If you turn the switch off on the stalk I believe that stops.

Did you unplug the stalk switch at the bottom of the steering column and check the switchs for proper operation?

The wires tend to break running to the stalk. Replacement stalks can be purchased for not too much on Ebay - Plastic Chrome ones there also if you feel as such.

I checked the switch and it works perfectly. Just like it did before the whole engine fiasco.

The solenoid clicks all the time. Even when the switch is off. I looked at the wiring diagram and I think it is supposed to be that way. I probably just never noticed it before because I wasn't listening for it.

Well try replacing the controller. They should be realitivly availble and inexpensive used if they don't break

Check the Mall listings here

Make sure that neither your clutch pedal nor brake pedal cruise control switches are out of adjustment.

On the manual and automatic cars, there should be a dual purpose switch on the brake pedal. There will be four wires leading to it, but the circuit for the cruise control has the gray wire and the dark green wire on manual transmission cars, whereas they're gray and brown with a white stripe on the automatics. To check if the brake pedal switch is out of adjustment, unplug the pedal switch, use an ohmmeter and place each meter lead on the two prongs of the switch while your foot is off the pedal. You should get zero ohms. If you get infinite ohms, then adjust the switch further away from the pedal until you get zero ohms.

On the manual tranny cars you'll have to test the clutch pedal switch in the same way since it's in series with the brake pedal (ie they're one after the other on the same circuit) so if either one is out of adjustment the cruise control won't engage. On the clutch pedal, the switch serves two purposes too, one circuit with the purple and yellow wires is for the neutral safety circuit, while the set you're interested in has a wire that's brown with a white stripe and a dark green wire. To check if the clutch pedal switch is out of adjustment, use an ohmmeter and test the two prongs on the switch while your foot is off the pedal. You should get zero ohms. If you get infinite ohms, then adjust the switch further away from the pedal until you get zero ohms.

I tracked down a module on the other side of the state, but I can probably get it cheaper on the Mall.

Bloozberry, the switches were the first thing I checked. The brake switch is working right and the clutch switch is bypassed. I bypassed it last year because there is just enough play in the clutch pedal that the switch won't make contact. I need to figure out how to get rid of the slop between the pedal and the clutch master cylinder rod.

Check Vacuum line... block, Reserve can has a leak, etc

Reserve can has been remove? Can has one-way valve...

Can Hear dump valve? So...
Sound Doesn't mean servo is good and is has a valve is bad or block. Same with dump valve. Dump valve is separate from sevro. Small part bolted to servo mounting hardware.

Main box can be bad but not likely. (Just switch one out...) Brake/clutch switch(es) (Clutch switch is very easy to hit out of adjustment), Vacuum, Servo, or Dump valve, is very likely your problem.

Yes... Dump valve is separate control... Brake switch controls dump valve. Key on, anytime hit the brake should vents servo.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)