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3800 Starts then Dies by Bfisher31286
Started on: 06-23-2010 10:16 AM
Replies: 14
Last post by: Bfisher31286 on 07-01-2010 08:49 AM
Bfisher31286
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Report this Post06-23-2010 10:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Bfisher31286Send a Private Message to Bfisher31286Direct Link to This Post
So my 3800sc Fiero had been misfiring when hot and I get on the throttle. I replaced injector o-rings, sc gackets, plugs (2 steps colder), and wires and it seemed like the problem went away. I brought my car to get aligned, took it for a drive after and it was doing the misfiring thing again. Brought it home, scanned for codes, went for another drive and it ran for about 40sec then dies completely. It will run for a split second when I try to restart it but dies right away. Giving it the gas once it starts kills it instantly. Seems like it may be fouled plugs. I also noticed the car ran quite rich even before the misfiring problem. Any ideas what to check first.

The car: 3800sc 86 Fiero with 3.25 pulley, intercooler, 195 tstat, 3 in exhaust
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Mike Gonzalez
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Report this Post06-23-2010 10:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike GonzalezSend a Private Message to Mike GonzalezDirect Link to This Post
I would start by checking fuel pressure. Sounds like the symptoms of a dying fuel pump or the short rubber hose in the tank from the pump to the hard lines. If fuel pressure is good I would move on to checking the ICM and crank sensor.
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Bfisher31286
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Report this Post06-23-2010 10:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Bfisher31286Send a Private Message to Bfisher31286Direct Link to This Post
I have a fuel pressure gauge on the motor so I can't tell what its doing while driving. But when I turn the key on to prime the fuel system I get normal pressure. Whats the best way to check the ICM and crank sensor.
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Mike Gonzalez
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Report this Post06-23-2010 11:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike GonzalezSend a Private Message to Mike GonzalezDirect Link to This Post
Does the fuel rail hold pressure or does it drop back down after prime ? Crank position sensor should put out AC voltage while cranking, not sure haw many volts, but its not much. ICM I have no idea how to test, I think most parts chains can test them for you. I just go to the U pull and Pay and grab a couple spares to keep handy for swapping.
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post06-23-2010 11:17 AM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageSend a Private Message to phonedawgzDirect Link to This Post
Any chance your dealing with a VATs/PASSKEY problem that started up by disconnecting the battery? If the VAT's PASSKEY fails while the engine is running it fails in a unlocked mode, and when disconnecting the battery, the VAT's/Passkey starts off in a locked mode. In locked mode if it doesn't get the right passkey signal, it will start and then turn off shortly.
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Bfisher31286
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Report this Post06-23-2010 11:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Bfisher31286Send a Private Message to Bfisher31286Direct Link to This Post
I had VATS disabled. The fuel pressure will drop to around 20 in like 10sec then it seems to drop very slowly after that
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MstangsBware
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Report this Post06-23-2010 05:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MstangsBwareSend a Private Message to MstangsBwareDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Bfisher31286:

I had VATS disabled. The fuel pressure will drop to around 20 in like 10sec then it seems to drop very slowly after that


FP should be a cocstant 42# at idle and go up as th motor is revved. Soungs like u got fuel pump issues...What pump you using? Combine this with that 3.25 pulley and u will be looking or a new motor soon...
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Bfisher31286
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Report this Post06-23-2010 05:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Bfisher31286Send a Private Message to Bfisher31286Direct Link to This Post
I have a Warlboro 255 in there. My fuel pressure is 47 with engine off...somewhere around 40 at idle. How quick should pressure leak down in the rail after the initial prime? I get plenty of fuel (pig rich at WOT) and now it smells like tons of fuel when I try to start it and it dies right away.
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Report this Post06-23-2010 05:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MstangsBwareSend a Private Message to MstangsBwareDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Bfisher31286:

I have a Warlboro 255 in there. My fuel pressure is 47 with engine off...somewhere around 40 at idle. How quick should pressure leak down in the rail after the initial prime? I get plenty of fuel (pig rich at WOT) and now it smells like tons of fuel when I try to start it and it dies right away.


Leak down after you start then kill the car? If that is what you mean then I have seen this all over the board with differant fuel pumps. Does your FP go up when you rev the motor? Sounds like maybe you have some vaccuum leaks on the motor. Is the vaccuum line to the regualtor still hooked up?
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Bfisher31286
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Report this Post06-23-2010 05:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Bfisher31286Send a Private Message to Bfisher31286Direct Link to This Post
Also, what have you guys done with the pulsator on top of the fuel pump? I left it in there when I installed the pump, but the way it is just stuck in there with some o-rings doesnt look like it could hold 40-50 psi
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MstangsBware
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Report this Post06-23-2010 05:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MstangsBwareSend a Private Message to MstangsBwareDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Bfisher31286:

Also, what have you guys done with the pulsator on top of the fuel pump? I left it in there when I installed the pump, but the way it is just stuck in there with some o-rings doesnt look like it could hold 40-50 psi


I use FI line instead of the pulsator....
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Report this Post06-23-2010 06:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for James Bond 007Send a Private Message to James Bond 007Direct Link to This Post
I agree a piece of fuel line a 2 hose clamps,to replace the pulsator (the hose clamps will prevent your fuel pump from poping off,I had this happen after hitting a pot hole,fuel pump poped off and the engine died).
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Bfisher31286
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Report this Post06-25-2010 08:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Bfisher31286Send a Private Message to Bfisher31286Direct Link to This Post
So the start then die issue was due to a bad MAF. I had a feeling it was engine electronics related so I started unplugging sensors one by one. When I unplugged the MAF it started but ran somewhat poorly. Replaced it and it starts and runs great. I still haven't driven it enough to see if it cleared up my misfires.
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Mike Gonzalez
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Report this Post06-25-2010 11:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike GonzalezSend a Private Message to Mike GonzalezDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for following up with your cure, this thread just may help someone in the future now !

Glad you got her going again !
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Bfisher31286
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Report this Post07-01-2010 08:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Bfisher31286Send a Private Message to Bfisher31286Direct Link to This Post
The misfires are due to fouled plugs. I did a leak test and found out I had massive leaks at the intake gasket under the supercharger, it was a miracle I was making any boost. That is what is causing it to run rich and foul plugs. Will be replacing gaskets and attempting to fix all the leaks soon.
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