Sorry if this has been asked before, I can't seem to figure out how to search for this topic.
OK, so I sold a few things on eBay, primarily to buy a camera. However, I was musing about eBay (first mistake) and the exact engine I'm looking for is available (affordably, no less) less than an hour and a half away. I don't exactly have the funds to swap parts (cam and intake) plus buy a new trans and modify the cradle, and....
How long can a dry engine (or even one with fluid, which will just find the lowest point to pool) sit outside the car as it gets one part here and one part there?
IP: Logged
07:40 PM
PFF
System Bot
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17106 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
Everything depends on how it is stored. If it is inside, it is likely good for many years. If it is outside, hard to say.
Things that can rust up in the rain will rust. The distributor will seize up with corrosion. The carb will gum up.
If it is a carb'd engine, you want to strip the carb and dunk it. If it is injected, clean the injectors.
Either way, drain the oil and put in fresh.
The biggest problem is in determining the running condition when it was pulled from the vehicle. You need a reliable person to deal with who will tell you the truth about the engine as best he knows it.
Hope this helps
Arn
IP: Logged
07:48 PM
Patrick's Dad Member
Posts: 5154 From: Weymouth MA USA Registered: Feb 2000
I should be a little more clear. It's an all aluminum LS 5.3 from a Monte Carlo SS. I have an engine stand (though, not a hoist, at the moment) and it's inside an old garage nest to the Formula. So, no dist, no carb, and I would plan to replace the camshaft and intake manifold and heads, a la Car Craft.
It'll be good for years... just pull the plugs, add a small squirt of engine oil in each cylinder, and turn the engine over every couple months or so. If you plug things like the intake, remember to remove the plugs before turning the engine over or they can get sucked in. Also, if you can empty the fuel system, that'd be a good idea too, although getting your injectors cleaned will probably be a good idea when you are ready to start using the engine. Old fuel will turn to varnish and partly or completely clog the nozzles in the injectors.
IP: Logged
08:41 PM
Toddster Member
Posts: 20871 From: Roswell, Georgia Registered: May 2001
The typical protection against corrosion in the cylinders is to spray LPS-3 oil into the cylinders. LPS-3 is a medium-weight corrosion protection oil that comes in an aerosol can. It's much thicker than the WD-40 or Tri-Flo, and you can get it at shops that sell to machine shops. Call any local machine shop, and they can tell you where to get it.
The spark plugs are normally removed, and you install dehydrator plugs. These are things that screw into the spark plug hole and which hold a desiccant. The desiccant is simply a drying agent, which absorbs moisture from the air, thus preventing it from getting into the engine.
It is a good idea to rotate the crank every 2-3 months and use a drill to run the oil pump at that time too. You should also store the engine in a good trash bag to keep bugs and dust out of it.
I should be a little more clear. It's an all aluminum LS 5.3 from a Monte Carlo SS. I have an engine stand (though, not a hoist, at the moment) and it's inside an old garage nest to the Formula. So, no dist, no carb, and I would plan to replace the camshaft and intake manifold and heads, a la Car Craft.
Curious which one you are looking to buy, as I just recently bought one on eBay myself. Mine won't end up in my car for a few months though.
I should be a little more clear. It's an all aluminum LS 5.3 from a Monte Carlo SS. I have an engine stand (though, not a hoist, at the moment) and it's inside an old garage nest to the Formula. So, no dist, no carb, and I would plan to replace the camshaft and intake manifold and heads, a la Car Craft.
Oh, I just saw the Car Craft page, and it's a totally different engine than the LS4 you're talking about from the Monte. FAST doesn't make an intake that bolts onto the LS4. Some people have swapped over an LS6 intake though. I'm deleting the DoD on my swap, and using an LS2 intake and valley cover. The LS2 intake requires modifying the oil pressure sensor boss, and probably a few other mods depending on which year setup the LS4 is. The 05-06 engines are a little different than the 07-08 models. And if you're going to keep the DoD working in your swap, you will need to be aware of the cam lift limits. If you are going to delete the DoD though, you should get a Gen IV LS valley cover and normal lifters and retainers.
Also be aware that sometimes they will say the engine is dry, but don't actually drain or flush the fluids out. My engine was still full of DEX-COOL and had plenty of oil in it. You will definitely want to drain the coolant before storing, as it can become pretty corrosive. Also, even if it's stored inside, you'll want to make sure steel surfaces are properly coated in oil, and cover the engine with a large plastic bag. Parts can still rust/corrode just sitting.
IP: Logged
09:44 PM
Patrick's Dad Member
Posts: 5154 From: Weymouth MA USA Registered: Feb 2000
K. So, how different is the Monte's SS 5.3 engine from, say, the SSR 5.3?
The CC article not only swaps the intake manifold, but the heads, as well. Is the short block the same? If so, then the new heads should facilitate the FAST intake's fitment - right? Or, there should be similar performance pieces for the LS2....
OTOH, maybe I should buy a camera, like I had planned....
K. So, how different is the Monte's SS 5.3 engine from, say, the SSR 5.3?
The CC article not only swaps the intake manifold, but the heads, as well. Is the short block the same? If so, then the new heads should facilitate the FAST intake's fitment - right? Or, there should be similar performance pieces for the LS2....
OTOH, maybe I should buy a camera, like I had planned....
The truck 5.3 is RWD. Not sure what heads are on it stock though. The LS4 has good heads stock. It has the same casting as the heads on the LS6 in the C5 Z06, and also on the LS2. It has the same valves as the LS2 though. The problem isn't really whether or not a certain intake will necessarily bolt to the heads. The problem is that on the LS4, the intake faces the other direction (throttle body out over the bell housing). Mounting an intake facing the 'front' of the motor on the LS4 will put the throttle body in the same place that part of the water pump is (so you can't really do it and keep the LS4 water pump). The really nice thing about the LS4 block is that it has the FWD bolt pattern, so will bolt right up to any FWD transaxle. The problem with that though, is that the starter is mounted on the trans in the LS4 cars. It's a special-cast bell housing for the 4t65e-hd, that was only on the LS4 cars.
There are plenty of threads on here about the LS4, and a few completed swaps already. One is about to be comlpeted up in the Pacific NW. And I'm currently working on my build, though it will be a while before it's done.
BTW, most of the FAST intakes will be more than the stock LS4 can handle anyway. The stock LS2 intake is more than it can handle.
IP: Logged
10:49 PM
Patrick's Dad Member
Posts: 5154 From: Weymouth MA USA Registered: Feb 2000
Originally posted by Patrick's Dad: Hmmp. I've also been looking at the FieroAddiction site, as they show a swap in progress.
Also looking to keep it manual, so an F40 is on my wishlist as well.
Maybe I'll let this particular engine slide. My wife is reminding me of all the other projects to be done around the house....
I'm doing the swap with an F40. With the manual, you'll have to delete the DoD, so you'll be buying lifters and retainers, and probably a valley cover. I'm also using the LS2 intake on my car.
I don't think FieroAddiction is doing anything with Fieros or that LS4 build, any more. There's an incomplete thread on here for that build, and several other threads, with a lot more information on the engine, though.
