I have the Muncie and one of my cable ends at the transmission end is too worn to stay on the pivot.

Is there a replacement for the end or do I have to replace the whole cable?

Arn

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Rodney dickman has a kit that works great

to prevent ruining the plastic part at the end of the cable that you have to drill thru,, cut a form into a small section of 2x4.. you form a mold to hold the plastic as you drill thru it,this prevents spliting..
,once you have the kit you will understand,, Ive used 2 of these in the past 6 years and they work great.. the kit comes with a correct size drill

[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 05-09-2010).]

I believe that I have heard of a process where the ball & socket are cleaned off real good and some kind of epoxy is poured into the socket. It is then installed onto the ball and is cured. The epoxy sticks to the socket but easily breaks free from the ball for proper operation. I need to do this to mine but two strategically placed wire ties have done the trick for over two years now.

Here is a link to another way.....

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/101033.html

Brian.

I like the epoxy option, but I think I'll go with the Rodney item. Thanks for the heads up on it. I looked on Rodney's site before I posted and didn't see it. But, it's ordered now.

Arn

I just flipped mine over. the top is now on the bottom and it works fine.

I just take a flat piece of metal about an 1.25" wide. Cut a slot in one end wide enough for the threaded stud of the ball to fit in.
Then bend it in a U that will fit on the bottom of the transmission arm and on the top of the cable end.
Take the nut loose on the stud and slip it on and tighten back up.
Put it on the arm in a position that does not interfere with the movement.

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 05-10-2010).]

i have used the epoxy method and never had a failure .for it to work properly , wrap the metal ball in cellophane before putting the cable end back on .if you dont do this the end might shatter when you first shift it after the epoxy hardens .after you are done it still looks stock ,just pull off the excess cellophane .

I like the cellophane idea. I was thinking vasoline or something but that sounds better.
Mold release would also probably work if you had some or even waxing the ball with car wax.

Dodgerunner that is a nice prototype you have there. I think though, that it should have a complete wrap around instead of being a "U" shape when installed. If it were a squared "O" you could easily just slide it over and have a hole for the stud to go through. That would be very slick.

As it is, I ordered Rodney's before I saw your post, but, it occurs to me that the fix you propose could be easily mass produced and would work both ball sizes equally well.

Arn

I had the same issue. the ball would keep popping out. I used Rodneys Fix. it worked well. but I always worried I would bust the remaining plastic shell with a hard shift. never actually happened. I really like the epoxy fill idea. above. I had also thought about making a clip, just as Dodgerunner described.

I hope no one minds as this is a little off topic, but it is related and there appear to be several people here who have fixed shifter cables...

The select cable (the side to side one) has broken on my Isuzu 5-spd. To be more precise, the outer part of the cable corroded away (under the rubber covering and heat deflector tape) and snapped right about in the middle at the highest point where the cable arches up and over in the engine bay. The inner cable is fine.

Is there a durable, effective way to hold the two broken pieces of outer cable sheathing together so it doesn't separate when the shifter is being moved from 3rd/4th to 1st/2nd?

I can take a picture of it this afternoon if that might help to show what I'm talking about.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-10-2010).]

Try this, https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/107202.html