I'm rebuilding my suspension and I'm in the disassembly process. I can't seem to seperate the tie rod end from the knuckle, it must have been in there for the past 10 years. Any tips on seperating them?

I've blasted it with PB blaster and took the mallet to it, etc, but it will not budge. Tried a ball joint fork as well. No luck.

How do you guys get them apart?

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A mallet is a good idea, but pretty useless on its own.

Hammer blows will be much more effective with a "pre-load". Have a friend force apart the knuckle and tie-rod using a crowbar or other lever, while you hammer.

[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 05-02-2010).]

see autozone etc loaner tools. rod end remover. Not fork type

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use a 3 or 5lb hammer. Hit the side of the steering knuckle right where the ball joint shaft goes into it. Hit it hard and it will come out. the hammer blows deform the taper in the hole just enough that the ball joint shaft will come out. Since it is a tapered hole and tapered shaft, PB blaster and other sprays don't usually work. You just have to beat it out. If you have never done it before it can seem a little extreme but it does work, I do it that way all the time. It works better than a fork because it doesn't ruin the boots.

Turn the joint so it's rotated out as far as it will go.
Put a jack under the stem and put a little up force on it.
Take two hammers (the larger the better) and hit on both sides of the knuckle at the same time. Should pop right out.

..Dodge runner is correct,,you have to hit the knuckle at exactly the same time with the 2 hammers ,old mechanic trick..this works !!!
..preferably always use the threaded special tie rod removal tool,it saves a lot of time.
when you hit the tie rod threads with a hammer ,even with the nut on the threads you end up splaying the rod stud and often have to file or cut the nut off..hmmm wonder how I know this..
..if replacing the tie rod,, its better to remove the nut ,then wack away .you should never wack the end,but Ive done it..
...the loaner tie rod removal tool is the only way to go with a stuborn tie rod ,just pay the deposit ,save some grief..
always install a zerk fitting if none comes on the new tie rod ..
...you can install a zerk grease fitting later,,after install just put some grease on the tap as it breaks thru and clean the excess metal out ...

[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 05-02-2010).]

When you mentioned "MALLET" it wasn't a rubber one was it?
Hey,, you never know..........

Spoon

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Interesting this post comes up. I was just discussing this same issue with Rodney this weekend at the Fiero Factory swap meet.

Whatever method you use, it's critical to support the the knuckle arm solid. Use a piece of metal or brick (wood won't do). Jack up the car a bit, put the support under the knuckle arm, and lower the car so it sits solid on the support. That way when you pound on the tie rod end it won't be like hammering on a "diving board".

If the bottom is supported good, the tie rod should pop right out with one good blow. It's basically locked in a taper and only takes a good tap to break the taper lock.

Marc

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Marc in sunny Titusville, FL

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I use a air ammer with a pickle fork on it. like 3 seconds to take it apart
Harbor freight has the fork and the air hammer CHEAP! I don't use it offten but when I do need it, bam no time loss.

I used to do the two hammer thing. I held a hammer against the back side then with a small sledge hammer wack the outer side and "POP"

use a ball-joint separator available for loan at any parts store. It's free. It's like a mini-press that you turn with a wrench.

If that doesn't work on its own, load it up tight with the mini-press until it wont go any farther, and then whack it with a hammer.