hey dont use naptha your paint will end up lookin like cottage cheese in your cup
Most farm implement paints will reduce just fine with acetone if u want to slow the drying down u can cut the acetone with verry little naptha but do so with caution and mix up a small test batch first if u can get a gallon of nason 481-12 thinner from a automotive store its cheap and will give you the results u want with the harbor freight hvlp your mix ratio will be 3/4 hardend paint in a 1qt cup to 1/4 cup of thinner or if u dont mind spending about 3 bucks more get a gallon of moyen medium thinner for enamel wich most farm implement paints are. also if your gona do the shoot yourself outside a booth say in the backyard try and strech a tarp above the car so u keep the sun off of it, some paints are photochemically reactive and u could mess w the color as it drys creating spots in ur paint
Aslo when u do get around to painting start at the top and work your way down start w roof decklid and hood first running your wet edge the length of the panel front of car to back then after your get first coat on switch the pattren to right side to left side of car
this will help reduce the chances of ya getting tiger stripes run you gun hose preshure at about 80lbs to the gun once at the gun turn your air preashure knob in and back out far enough to give u a full pattren only squirt a test shot on some paper your pattren w that gun should be around 13 to 14 inches wide if the gun is working propor, then turn the air pattren adjustment in alittle till pattren starts to shrink this will get rid of the guns tendency to have the spray pattren split in half, then hold the gun square w the panel about 5 to 7 inches away moving just slow enough to keep a wet shiny coat but dont go so slow as to get it puddling or making it look like a fat chicks butt all wrinkly eww!
if it looks right and your air is right, the edge of the paint pattren should look like fuzz without big splots of paint
practice with that gun with good ol kids paint and water before using your more expensive paint u will get the feel of the gun and well hell refinish some lawn chairs or somthin in the learning experience! if youre compressor cant handle that high of preashure no prob just screw in the fluid needle to lessen your paint discharge rate your not gona get the nice big pattren but u still should be able to get a good spray pattren but with that all said DONT USE STRAIGHT NAPTHA! either ur gona get cottage cheese or the flip side your gona have paint wet way too long and get runs and or gassing or worse the top of paint will dry bottom will re-wet your primer and make it all bubble!
these instructions are for solid colors w metalics throw out the rules, w a metalic u need to try and spray w a higher preashure so u can stand up the metalics low preashure will make them lay down and not sparkle as much also higher preashure foggin the paint will help you keep it all even and prevent blotches. W all that after spraying a few coats just go over it all dusting away over it all fanning the spray back and forth this will even out any problems u may have created by gettin over excited! remember metalics are sensitive give yourself time between coats if u re-wet the previous coat u can make the paint molt! and get blotchy lookin messes everywere! take your time!!!!! and w metalic single stages use a slower reducer so the clear can come to the top of the paint!
IP: Logged
09:08 PM
Dec 24th, 2009
never2old Member
Posts: 1854 From: Wyoming, Michigan USA Registered: Dec 2005
hey i just had a afterthought about the paint instead of using 481-12 thinner use nason 481-16 thiiner it will reduce ur enamel paint perfectly also throw alittle marhyde 2600 ultra wet look hardner in it a .473 (1ltr) can of it cost around 20 bucks at automitive supply also oriely paint stores now carry nason products well at least here they do!
but anyway for every quart of your enamel paint mix in 3 shot glasses of the mar hayde hardner and reduce it w the nason thinner 1/4 if its alittle thin back off the thinner thats just were i have sprayed it and get a good result
for somthin as big as a dump truck you may wat to have two guys or 4 paintin all starting in the middle of the truck breaking away twards the 4 corners that way you will keep it all wet and not have dry spray or a dry line and no need to worry about keepin a wet edge for the time needed to spray somthin that big!!!
IP: Logged
08:30 PM
Jan 1st, 2010
Knucklebuster Member
Posts: 155 From: Chapel Hill, NC Registered: Sep 2009
Knucklebuster.....................What kind of tail lights are those? Very nice....................Cliff
Just something I kinda' made up from parts at the local auto parts store. Original tail lights... painted over in some areas, added two back-ups and the two round lights in the center are lit with the "PONTIAC" lights. Now the fender flares and the side skirts.... they were a beech!
As an update on the $50 dollar paint job... I sanded back to primer and started again.
I learned that the 50/50 paint to thinner was too thin... too runny and drips were a major pita to sand out.
So I've got 3 coats on now with a 1/3 thinner to paint ratio and it is looking awesome. And I lost the fear of putting some pressure on the foam roller.... as when you put pressure on the roller you get a ton of bubbles - but they disappear in a few seconds. Been painting in 42-55 degree weather in the driveway and it looks like it is going to work out fine.... no flashing or hazing.
Yea.... I got "Bubba" written all over my face... and the neighbors are laughing their azzes off I'm sure..... but every time they drive by they slow down and gander.... and give me the thumbs up.
I will start a new thread next week with the latest pics..... but I must say... it's working out nicely.
IP: Logged
01:10 AM
86fieroEarl Member
Posts: 2203 From: Orlando, FL Registered: Jun 2002
Well, there's no turning back now. I'm fully into it. I did my sanding and I started painting today. I have done two coats so far and I'm happy to say that this is easy to do and so far, everyone that has seen it is impressed. My wife (who hates my car), and three friends all couldn't believe what a difference one coat could make. Remember, I'm going from gold to black so there is some coverage issues but this stuff is covering very well. Also, just like it has been reported, the paint seems to be self-leveling. It just smooths out on its own. In fact, it seems to prefer a messy hand and brush technique. I'm mixing about 50/50 but not measuring. I get it to a consistancy so that when I pull the stir stick up, the paint streams down in a thin continuous line. I'll take pictures when I'm done but if anyone wants sneak peaks, I can send pics by phone. My camera card is full right now.
Hey guys, keep up the good work, if you prep and finish it right you should have some beautiful cars!! I've spray painted a few cars myself and enjoyed it but I don't have a problem with people using this method, not that I think anyone needs my approval or anyone else's. I'd love to see someone do it with Hammerite paint with a hammered finish (they make smooth too.) It is a bit expensive, $65/gallon but it is AWESOME paint. I am using it for my frame and chassis on my kitcar.
Here are some close ups of Hammerite brand paint. I just finished building a rack. It goes on thick, only requires 2 coats, can go over rust and makes one hell of a hard, long-lasting surface. I think this combined with a suede finished paint would be mind-blowing!!!
it looks different at different angles
this shows you the texture, looky Ma, no more wet sanding!! it is supposed to look this way 'hammered'
this last image shows you how light and reflections really plays off this paint. The color is called silver gray, but it's basically silver.
Hey jetsnvettes2000, what do you think of House of Kolors paint? If you were to paint your own show car tomorrow, what kind of paint would you buy? Thanks for some great info, btw
IP: Logged
11:36 PM
Jun 26th, 2010
SMTHGT Member
Posts: 1075 From: Seagoville , Tx. Registered: Mar 2010
Just started painting my 86GT in Rustoleum Sunburst Yellow a few days ago. I did go to 3 shops ranging from cheapo to high dollar and included one of the major paint chains. I wanted a color change from red to yellow. Car is for my boys and I. With regards to the 199.00, it would have remained red with no primer and no real prep. You know how long that would have lasted. Yes, I had prepped it myself but the 199 included no primer. The major retail chain wanted 500 for the paint and primer, another 175.00 for sanding, 125 per door jam and another fee for hood and trunk lips. Do the math! They would not paint the car if I did the primer coat even if I used the primer they were using. How can you make sure your bodywork and prep are ready to go without primering it yourself. We do not need to discuss the high end shop's price.
I have not sprayed a car but am real familiar with the technique through years of using an airbrush. My family would kill me if I stunk the house up with auto paint fumes and it would no matter what type of booth you did unless you had a fresh air ventilation system for the garage. Neighbors would kill me if I did it in my driveway and rightfully so.
Point being in all of this is that I am on my 3rd coat and it looks freakin' fantastic. So what if it fades in a year, it's so easy you can just roll a new coat. Not to mention, using car covers, wax or a garage to put the car in to minimize sun and element damage. I have had fun, my kids have had fun helping and when we do get it finished, it will look much better then anything I could have gotten on the cheap. Look at some of the other forums; including the MOPAR forum where this all started. There are plenty of pictures of cars that have 2-3 year old rustoleum paint jobs and still look good.
If you have the $$$, pay for a nice paint job, if you have the skills, tools and proper space, spray it yourself. If you do not have either of the above or do not want to pay someone huge dollars, this is a viable and fun family project for a car that when done properly and maintained afterwards will look great. Plus, you did it yourself!
Centex Pilot, Post some pictures. I was thinking of painting my red car "Sunburst Yellow" too. I was wondering what other colors Rustoleum has. I only see about 5 colors at Lowes...
OK, that was an interesting process. Here she is after 7 coats. I plan on doing a total of 10 and if all goes well, will have it done by Sunday.
Still cannot believe how good this car is starting to look. I now have 2 friends that thought I was crazy doing this and they both plan on doing theie's this way as well!
Steve
IP: Logged
06:08 PM
Centex Pilot Member
Posts: 117 From: Austin, Texas Registered: Jan 2010
you can buy them at Marine stores like West Marine. they work well , you should roll 2 directions to avoid runs,but you have to take a brush and tip the air bubbles used them boats for years
)
(.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
