Replaced the rear wheel bearing assy. with one that was made in China, it failed a mile down the road. Bought a Timken "Made in USA" unit and there is already free play in the wheel when I grab it at "12" and "6", and the car vibrates at highway speed like a coin operated bed in a cheap motel. What gives? Do I have to step up to one of the $100 units? Could the knuckle or some other part be causing the bearing assy. to go bad? This is getting really annoying.

------------------
Ninety percent of the population thinks you'd have to be crazy to own a Fiero. I'm in the other ten percent!

sure you dont have a bad balljoint?
or out of balance tire?

edit to add: the tire would have free play in ALL directions, not just 12:00/6:00, with a bad bearing

[This message has been edited by Pyrthian (edited 11-13-2009).]

How are you setting the bearing preload?

Had a 4-wheel alignment done when I had the Grand Am brake upgrade done, and then had all 4 wheels balanced. As for the ball joint, that could be a possibility. But I tightened the axle nut a little bit, and it reduced the free play somewhat. So I am not sure.

quote Originally posted by Ditkaphile: But I tightened the axle nut a little bit, and it reduced the free play somewhat. So I am not sure.

It's not like the front wheel bearings where you just tighten them to remove the slack.

The rear wheel bearings require a large bearing preload; I don't know the torque spec off hand for the axle nut, but it's quite high.

Use a new axle nut to ensure it won't back out.

I had the bearing assy. replaced at a repair shop. I asked the mechanic if 200 lb/ft was the correct torque spec and he agreed. So I am assuming it was properly torqued. New bearing assy. came with a new axle nut I believe.

quote Originally posted by Ditkaphile: ... I tightened the axle nut a little bit, and it reduced the free play somewhat.

Per the GM/Helm factory service manual, the axle nut must be tightened to 200 ft-lb (270 N*m) for proper preload. Without proper preload the rear hub bearings will fail quickly.

Most 1/2-inch drive workshop torque wrenches don't go to 200 ft-lb, but fortunately most car parts stores these days have a suitable torque wrench available for loan. Don't omit this step. "Close" isn't good enough. How many more rear hub assemblies do you want to buy?

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 11-13-2009).]

quote Originally posted by Marvin McInnis: Per the GM/Helm factory service manual, the axle nut must be tightened to 200 ft-lb (270 N*m) for proper preload. Without proper preload the rear hub bearings will fail quickly.

Agreed.

Even though it is not rocket science, "pretty tight", is not "good enough" in this case.

Kevin

If you were able to tighten it without a breaker bar, there's a good chance it wasn't properly torqued at the garage. Also, if it was the typical thin collared nut that comes with most new bearing assemblies, it should have been staked by the garage making it very difficult to tighten any more unless you bent back the collar to allow you to turn it some more. If it wasn't staked, then that could be your problem too, since the nut will slacken by itself.

I did use a breaker bar. As for it being "staked" I have no idea what that means...d'oh!

------------------
Ninety percent of the population thinks you'd have to be crazy to own a Fiero. I'm in the other ten percent!

Take a look at the fourth or fifth post in this thread for a picture of a staked axle nut. www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/100361.html

Actually, read the thread instead. There's a post by theogre further on down that shows what you should be using if you have thin walled collar nuts on your car.

[This message has been edited by Bloozberry (edited 11-13-2009).]

Sounds like you may have a worn CV joint that is rattling at speed. Also be sure to use only the heavy duty torque to yield nuts. These nuts have the threads inside from end to end. The other variety that is apparently the "stake on type" with shallow threads will work loose.
We've done some tests on the Chinese made bearing hubs. Some look like crap and some look to be well made. They should work but I don't believe will last very long.
The USA made Timpken, BCA and Bowers are of far better quality.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

To tighten your axle nut:
Assuming you weigh 200 lbs -- put a breaker bar on the nut through the center cap hole with the wheel on and down. Stand on the breaker bar 1 foot from the center. If you weigh more or less than 200 lbs, adjust where you stand accordingly. It isn't rocket science, but it is math.

I had a guy that races his fieros tell me that his rear wheel bearings would hold to 60,000 miles as long as they were GM ones. He said that with the aftermarket rear wheel bearing brands he could only get up to half that mileage out of the bearings under racing conditions. That was 5 years ago. I can imagine how the newly manufactured brands that come from China hold out...not long. I've had good luck with the original GM ones.

It seems that what ever auto part I have to buy that has been made in China, doesn't last or is defective. I've bought Chinese made CV axles and they went bad with less than 1000 miles. Waterpumps, bad in a short period of time. I've bought fuel/water separator housings and they were defective from the factory. I've purchased Suzuki flywheels made in China that did not have timing marks on them–like who can use that? Napa premium rotors for GM Suburbans made in China that last only a year before warping. Brake shoes wearing out fast.

Has anyone else noticed the other stuff that doesn't last long that's made in China...normal light bulbs, construction nails, flashlights, all kinds of stuff etc....

I'm to the point that I'm happy to pay extra for American made parts that will last. Its just very difficult to find made in the US parts.

I'd stick with the GM units though they are more expensive and torque to specs.

A bit off topic...

Does anyone here remember the thread about the kid that tightened his front wheel bearings with an air impact wrench and then couldn't figure out why his car wouldn't move? He thought his brakes were some how frozen. Oh my gosh, that was too funny.

I am an auto mechanic and have noticed that most parts are now made in china and they are of horrible quality and DO FAIL rather quickly. They are absolutely horrible, I will only if at all possible buy american made parts, they are of much higher quality, in fact I would buy any parts made anywhere other than china.

Americans & forum members have demanded,,insisted and fought for low quality,,absolutely want the lowest price!!
Guest what ?? keep it comming ,,Japan and China need you more than ever
Hmmm?? wonder why unemployment is so high
PLEASE ,,buy another toyota, mazda, honda,you still have your job,,correct??

[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 11-14-2009).]

Chinese Tires Blamed for Fatal Accident in PA.
A lawsuit sites cheap Chinese tires for a fatal traffic accident in Pennsylvania. The suit says tread separation caused a cargo van carrying four passengers to crash, killing two passengers and injuring the other two. The light truck tires were sold under the names Westlake, Telluride, Compass and YKS..

Moral of the story- You want PRICE and price only , you got it. Buy Chinese and lose your life.
I wouldn't put that low quality cheap sh*t on my cars if they gave it to me for nothing.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Well I've said it for decades now. Buy made in USA. Even if it costs twice as much.
Everyone now wants to buy US products now that the economy has failed, MILLIONS of folks have lost their jobs, & everything available to us is CRAP that fails in short order - if it works at all.
It's a little too late, people. It's your own fault.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

America - made in China!

Well, based on the fact that with the tire off the ground, placing my hands at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and checking for free play, there is some. My mechanic tells me if there is free play at all then the bearing is bad. He's a good guy too, not the type to scam people at all.

I'm sorry to hear that news about the bearing, that wasn't an american made bearing was it?

Yes it was...Timken brand.

I replaced mine, did the preload then about a month later it started making a noise. I had to tighten it again and its been a couple of months now and no noise. I do have a spare and if it goes bad I will pull one from my parts car.

Get one with a lifetime warranty. O'Reilly's is a good place to find these.

O'Reilly is where I bought the first one. Made in China, it crapped out not even two miles down the road. And that is the only brand they carry.

Did you buy the Master Pro or the National brand?

I don't recall, but my local O'Reilly only carried one brand, not two.

When I converted to Porshe wheels, I went looking for bearings to change over the hole pattern to 5 x 130. I wound up buying about 10 total, both off-brands and BCA. My biggest complaint was trying to find a PAIR - seemed like every bearing I found was unique - the wheel pilot and fitment was all the same, but they had different size spindle OD's, different bearings, different seals, different .race spacers. I would find a pair in the store that looked similar, take them home and press them apart. BTW, some are ball, some are roller - could be the cause of the variable life. All were same part number, in the same style box, same brand. I was really suprised that the BCA bearings did not match, made me wonder about the source - the bearings themselves were not marked. Wound up with a pair of Off-brands, mainly because they had the smallest flange OD, so when I need to replace them, the conversion parts I made will will be adaptable to other hubs. So far so good

quote Originally posted by Ditkaphile: Yes it was...Timken brand.

BE ADVISED that the market is presently flooded with counterfeit Timken bearing hubs that are made in China. Even the boxes are printed with the Timken logos. Genuine American Made Quality Timken product has markings on the studs, the Communist Chinese junk doesn't.


The CEO's wanted higher profits, the politicans wanted no factories, the public wanted cheaper products and what do we have now? Corporations losing money. stores closing, Garbage products and massive Unemployment.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 11-15-2009).]

quote Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: Chinese Tires Blamed for Fatal Accident in PA....

On the way back from vacation, my wife's car developed a noise like a bad wheel bearing. When we stopped traveling for the day, I drove slowly across the motel parking lot and could feel the steering wheel move every time the 'bump' was heard. The left front tire had a huge knot in the tread and was coming apart. We had been on the Interstate at 70ish MPH for 4+ hours. Luckily, there was a tire center down the road and I got a new set of Good-Years the next morning. The tires were less than 2 years old, had about 15,000 miles on them and were not cheap. Where were they made? You guessed it

i build Honda cars in America and yes i still have a job, unlike a lot of people at "American Auto Manufacturers." Just because its a foreign owned company, doesn't mean their vehicles aren't built in the USA. Before anyone says anything about the parts used on the cars, over 85% of our parts are produced locally.

quote Originally posted by billybad5: i build Honda cars in America and yes i still have a job, unlike a lot of people at "American Auto Manufacturers." Just because its a foreign owned company, doesn't mean their vehicles aren't built in the USA. Before anyone says anything about the parts used on the cars, over 85% of our parts are produced locally.

But the profits they make go back to Japan.
But heck US built cars have a lot more foreign content than that. Are you sure about that 85% or is that a guess-timate? Are you considering the engine a single piece? Same with trans & drivetrain?
It's corporate greed to blame - & all the greedy consumers that demand low prices instead of quality.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Hey look! My alphabet soup spelled out "ooooooo".
You idiot: you're eating Cheerios!

I dont think people are complaining about Japanese built parts or vehicles, I know I certainly am not, I am compaining about all parts made in China and China only.

"How many rear wheel bearing assemblies do I have to buy to get one that doesn't fail?"

6

Did I win?

quote Originally posted by Ditkaphile: What gives? Do I have to step up to one of the $100 units?

I had the same problem with all the rear bearings that I installed on my car, all brand new, and they all failed in a couple of months, I even got the ones from The Fiero Store, the solution was to get the OEM ones, I didnt want to spend that much money so I installed old used ones from a junkyard fiero just made sure they were OEM's, and I have not have any more problems again.

So the morale of the story is old used OEM rear bearings are 100% better than any NEW not OEM ones ...


Have Fun ...

- Ales

quote Originally posted by rdppilot: I dont think people are complaining about Japanese built parts or vehicles, I know I certainly am not, I am compaining about all parts made in China and China only.

Yeah I'll buy Japan; sometimes as a second choice - especially for electronics. But any time you buy something made elsewhere, it's hurting our economy. With china, you're not only hurting our economy, you're supporting a communist regime with the worst human rights record on the planet. AND getting JUNK!
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

If guns cause crime, then pencils cause misspelled words.

I work in the parts business, and yes you usually have two choices with stuff like this. Brand name or generic store brand. Most of the time, the brand name is made in the USA. However, I have noticed a lot of brand name stuff now being made in China. BCA/National hub assemblies, for example, and also Wagner brake rotors, Borg Warner electrical, Precision u-joints, etc, have a lot of parts made in China. There may be some particular applications still USA made, but most are not. They still carry the higher price, though.
The part number (if I remember correctly) for the 84-87 rear hub assembly is 513011K. That part number is good for the generic and brand name (BCA in this case).

Usually I would go with the better brand for a higher price, because it was indeed better. Now, however, I compare the two and usually end up with the cheaper one because it doesn't look or feel any worse.

------------------

[This message has been edited by Fiero_Adam (edited 11-17-2009).]

well the percent of domestic parts depends on the vehicle being produced and everything, but i would say overall with all the cars honda builds here in the united states the usa made parts are over 70% of the total being installed. In the plant i work the engines and transmissions are built locally as well.

Not to long a go i got the Timken brand from autozone and it is still doing just fine i torked it to the 200 lbs . after so it did show me my inner tierod was bad after that was replace it will all good back their. i have had the Timken in for over 600 miles now no probs.

Thanks
Jeff

------------------
85 Fiero 2m4
88 Fiero Formula CJB T-Top Project Conversion To GT

www.projectpb.com for all for paintball needs check this out

quote Originally posted by Fiero_Adam: I work in the parts business, and yes you usually have two choices with stuff like this. Brand name or generic store brand. Most of the time, the brand name is made in the USA. However, I have noticed a lot of brand name stuff now being made in China. BCA/National hub assemblies, for example, and also Wagner brake rotors, Borg Warner electrical, Precision u-joints, etc, have a lot of parts made in China.

I just ordered some Raybestos rotors which turned out to be made in China. I was disappointed! Particularly so because I'd ordered them to replace a pair of cheapie warped Chinese rotors I got from Autozone. I have my fingers crossed. So far so good however.

quote Originally posted by Fiero_Adam The part number (if I remember correctly) for the 84-87 rear hub assembly is 513011K. That part number is good for the generic and brand name (BCA in this case).

I'm not familiar with BCA but I believe that's the Timken part number also. Aren't Timkens what are put on at the factory? Anyway, all the Timkens I've bought have been made in USA and have worked perfectly for years and years. I have to wonder if the early failures are caused by improper torque.