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Causes of 'Low Clutch Pedal' by imacflier
Started on: 05-01-2010 07:49 AM
Replies: 6
Last post by: imacflier on 05-01-2010 09:59 AM
imacflier
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Report this Post05-01-2010 07:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for imacflierSend a Private Message to imacflierDirect Link to This Post
OK,

My clutch pedal is at or just barely above my brake pedal rather than the 1" higher it is supposed to be.

From searching, these are the primary causes:

-Bent Clutch Pedal
-Banjo upside down (loop pointing down rather than up)
-Bent banjo
-Worn clutch pedal bushings

What else is there? I speculate other causes could be banjo too short (see adjustible banjo posts), although I don't really see how the rod could become too short. A bad clutch master cylinder?

Ideas and comments, please.

TIA,
Larry
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thefredman
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Report this Post05-01-2010 08:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for thefredmanSend a Private Message to thefredmanDirect Link to This Post
I had to replace my clutch master cylinder. Is your car hard to shift? When replacing the master cylinder, you must bleed the m.c. and the slave cylinder. Do a search on this topic and you will find a way to bleed both.
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imacflier
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Report this Post05-01-2010 08:22 AM Click Here to See the Profile for imacflierSend a Private Message to imacflierDirect Link to This Post
thefredman,

Out of curiosity, did you replace both slave and cylinder at the same time? Or first one and then the other?

Thanks,
Larry
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Nosferatu187
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Report this Post05-01-2010 08:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Nosferatu187Send a Private Message to Nosferatu187Direct Link to This Post
It's possible the bore on your master cylinder has rusted, not allowing the piston to release all the way. Had something like this happen on my '86 GT. After opening the bleeder screw at the slave, I couldn't get it to pump any more fluid. The pedal would just go to the floor with no resistance. The bore of the master had rusted a little at the end of it's travel so the piston couldn't travel far enough to open the port to allow more fluid in. Cleaned up the bore and the clutch bled fine after that.

Mike
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imacflier
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Report this Post05-01-2010 08:44 AM Click Here to See the Profile for imacflierSend a Private Message to imacflierDirect Link to This Post
No, Mike,

It is apparently bleeding correctly.....gonna put another quart through it today. Rodney's slave. Just had noticed that the clutch pedal is not the quoted 1" higher than the brake which makes me suspect that I am not getting full stroke length from the clutch pedal. Pulling up on the pedal does not raise it any, so it seems as if it is not a rusty bore issue.

Thanks for the idea, though.

Larry
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Arns85GT
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Report this Post05-01-2010 09:20 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Arns85GTSend a Private Message to Arns85GTDirect Link to This Post
There were two issues I found with mine.

First off the banjo eye got worn. That created slop. To check this just wiggle the pedal with your fingers. If it moves up and down there is your problem.

The stock replacement though, won't necessarily work. The reason is worn parts. Get the adjustable banjo from Rodney. Well worth it.

Second issue is the clutch pedal itself. Mine was on its last legs and after I took it out to replace it with the Fiero Store steel pedal, it fell apart in my hands.

New steel pedal, Rodney's adjustable banjo and you're good to go.

Arn

BTW the job of removing the clutch is a MAJOR PITA

[This message has been edited by Arns85GT (edited 05-01-2010).]

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imacflier
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Report this Post05-01-2010 09:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for imacflierSend a Private Message to imacflierDirect Link to This Post
Arns,

Thank you. I will go check shortly. But, as I said, the pedal does not raise appreciably when pulled upon.

Larry
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