i know you can slap a breaker bar or 4 way on the crank and spin, but what are some other ways of testing an engine at the JY? i dont have a compression tester.

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First LX9 Fiero GT, 1987 | My Fiero Fuel Economy | MPG Display for OBD I
Youtube Videos of My GT | modernize your fiero with technology!
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem
Fiero's are people too. We pay just as much attention to them, if not more than our loved ones
screw paying those bastards. im not going to become rich by paying for things.....

Beg, borrow or buy a compression tester and do a full compression test, most of the time I refuse to buy an engine with out hearing it run or a tranny with out a test drive if possible.
Either way if you do mnot know the wreckers or some one who does becarefull because they can be crooked and in most cases the warranty they give is expired long before you get the engine running in your Fiero.
Most of the wreckers I deal with do not start the warranty time till the engine is running which really helps both finding a good engine and their ability to sell the engines. Dan

You can pull the oil dipstick and look for any signs of water contamination, usually the oil will look milky gray in color. Also, the junkyard will give you a limited warranty that the motor is usable. Take the motor home and tear it down for internal inspection. Pull the heads, etc. other than that you just have to hope the motor is o.k. Like I said, the yard does give you a warranty. Hope this helps you some. Ernie

If it were possible to bring in one of those small jump starter batteries, you could possibly hook up the battery and hotwire it with a compression tester plugged in.

If you dont have a tester, you could take off the heads and visually examine everything. This is also a good thing to follow up a positive compression test just to make sure everything is is in shape.

A scrap yard that lets you take off the heads before buying the engine would be rare in my neck of the woods. If you decided you liked another engine better, then they'd be on the hook to replace the head gaskets to try to sell the engine to someone else.

Here's a couple suggestions that you might find more practical if you can't get a starter on it:

1. take the oil filler cap off and peer inside the valve cover with a flashlight. What you're looking for is evidence of the previous owner's care... a nice clean valvetrain without sludgey or baked-on oil;

2. bring a breaker bar with you and turn the crank over at least one full revolution. If there is any binding then leave it there... it could be a sign of a broken timing belt, broken connecting rod, foreign pieces in the oil pan, you name it; also, turn the crank over a bit in one direction, then turn it in the other direction listening or feeling for a clunk as the wrench just starts to move in the opposite direction... this would indicate a bad connecting rod bearing.

3. look for obvious oil leaks like at the rear main seal, timing cover seal, valve covers etc. Leaks are bad enough, but they also are signs that the engine may have run on low oil if the PO neglected the oil level;

4. check that all the spark plugs can be removed and re-installed... (if they're missing, leave the engine there... there's no telling what might have gotten into the cylinders). Some engines are abandoned as a last straw when one of the spark plug holes gets stripped.

5. check to make sure the freeze plugs are all still intact. Scrap yards don't change the antifreeze in engines sitting in their yards for a couple years so the coolant can freeze and crack the block or blow a plug. A blown freeze plug is a sign that there could be other problems.

6. definitely check the color of the oil in the pan... chocolate brown means a blown head gasket;

7. know the engine welll, and make sure all the sensors are on it. Some engine sensors are like gold if you have to buy them separately... like MAF's that are anywhere from $200-$400.

8. try to get the engine wiring harness included as part of the engine... even if you don't need it, there are lots of great connectors you may find a need for in the future.

Edited to add: 9. check the condition of the spark plugs when they're out... they'll tell you alot about each cylinder's condition. If you have Haynes manual lying around, bring it with you because there's always a full color chart in them showing you what to look for when diagnosing via spark plug condition.

Well that's it for now... hope that helps.

[This message has been edited by Bloozberry (edited 04-15-2010).]

There seems to be some disagreement among our Fiero club members over what exactly is included when you buy an "engine" from a wrecking yard.

Some members say what you get is a "long block"... no intake, no starter, no ignition, etc.

Others say you get "everything", up to but not including the tranny.

So, for anyone who's bought a wrecking yard "engine", what did you get?

I am sure it depends on the yard or what you want. The last one I got from a yard was complete from intake to pan, but that was what I wanted.

[This message has been edited by LitebulbwithaFiero (edited 04-15-2010).]

i bought a 3800 from a rather large salvage operation in indiana, i was shown the vehicle on a moniter, as they were removing the engine, i couldnt hear it run, but i infact watched them ( on the moniter) drive it into the stahl, for harvest, and again assured it ran good! i was allowed too walk back too the car as they were removing the engine, so i could see the odometer, 87k like the told me, i was happy! went too grab a bite while they finished up, came back they loaded it, i payed and drove 3 hrs home! as i was unloading the engine i noticed the harmonic balancer was cracked, upon further inspection the rubber was actually seperated from the outter balancer! There was no way in hell that motor ran good with that thing on there! I called the yard and they basicly told me too $h!t in my shoe! So ive done the only thing i can do, replaced the balancer and am about a week away from seeing if she "runs good"! -strike

I like to get engines from cars that have been rear ended or hit from the side. I look for things like the belt still on the engine and original spark plug wires. Be upfront when you want something. If you like to gamble some yards will give you a good price if you buy with cash as is no warranty agreement.

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Turbo 3800 E85 5spd spec3
11.74@123

Don't know if this is directly related to testing for a good engine but what to steer clear of. I found a transmission for my son's wagon on car-parts .com, called them said they would garrantee it. Drove 2-3 hours to get it, loaded it up and drove home. After further reveiw of the sales receipt it said warranty would be voided if taken apart. Well you guessed it, bad tranny. I was going to change the fluid and filter, the pan was full of metal. I called them about this and they confirmed if anything was taken off it voided warranty. Well I won't make that mistake again.

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85 GT 3.4
14.9 @ 90 1.9 60' Old TH125/3.06
Unknown New 4T60/3.42

quote Originally posted by Lilchief: Don't know if this is directly related to testing for a good engine but what to steer clear of. I found a transmission for my son's wagon on car-parts .com, called them said they would garrantee it. Drove 2-3 hours to get it, loaded it up and drove home. After further reveiw of the sales receipt it said warranty would be voided if taken apart. Well you guessed it, bad tranny. I was going to change the fluid and filter, the pan was full of metal. I called them about this and they confirmed if anything was taken off it voided warranty. Well I won't make that mistake again.

Yes, I have heard this. If I bought a trans from a junkyard, the first thing I would do is drop the pan, but for most, that voids the warranty

quote Originally posted by Justinbart: I like to get engines from cars that have been rear ended...

Could be taking kind of a chance getting an engine from a Fiero doing that.

I would not turn the engine backwards ..keep turning in the correct direction rotation wise of you could risk damaging it

the yard i am reffering to is a pull a part

quote Originally posted by Erik: I would not turn the engine backwards ..keep turning in the correct direction rotation wise of you could risk damaging it

How's that Erik?

quote Originally posted by Bloozberry: How's that Erik?

I was thinking the same thing. Only thing I can think of is an overhead cam engine where the chain might slack when spun backwards. But to listen for the rods clunking you will not have to go that far back at all.

Most wreckers I deal with sell you what they call fire wall forward which includes the engine with all its parts, the tranny, wiring harness and PCM. Things like the fuel pump are seperate as well as any thing from inside the car you may want.
I find when checking engines over if the oil looks brand new that is a bad sign and I pull atleast one valve cover to inspect further at that point or just walk away from that one, also check the car for stickers from oil changes with mileage and dates on them as I have found a few with as many as ten stickers stacked on top of each other showing oil changes going back years.
I also look the car over closely as in most cases a clean car meant a good owner maintenance wise and I never but any drive train parts from a car with no or little body damage, if I have to ask my self why the car is there I do not touch it.
If the engine is out you can still do a compression test by either using a good car battery and booster cables or like I do by bringing along a battery booster pack with enough juice to crank her over to test compression on all cylinders.
Also do not forget to check the coolant for signs of oil due to the lower intake gasket failure most GM engines are prone to now. Dan

Allso look inside the glove box for maitence receipts.If the car was unkept inside,most likley the engine was unkept.Allso factor in the milage and call the wrecking yard and ask about if or any engine warrenty.

No brainer. Make sure the owner or a good yardman is your best buddy. Then ask him.

You really can't tell for sure. Especially if it's out of the car already and you can't see how bad the wreak was and you may also have to take thier word for it as to the millage. If the car was on it's side or at angle that starved the engine of oil for a even just a few mins the brearings and such may not have much life left in them. Hard rear-enders/head-ons can mess up thrust bearings and crank seals. Another thing to consider is how long it's sat, whereas things like valve seals and injector rings can dry up and need replacement. Salvage yards were not called junk yards in the past without reason. However, most times you'll be OK, if you can hear it run in the car and see the millage. As for me, I'd rather rebuild my engine and know exactly what I have than buy junker and have to maybe rebuild it later. Good hunting.

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quote Originally posted by Patrick: There seems to be some disagreement among our Fiero club members over what exactly is included when you buy an "engine" from a wrecking yard. Some members say what you get is a "long block"... no intake, no starter, no ignition, etc. Others say you get "everything", up to but not including the tranny. So, for anyone who's bought a wrecking yard "engine", what did you get?

good point! it helps to know what you are talking about in engines. a long block is an engine with heads and a oil pan on it. NOTHING ELSE. And engine assembly typically includes the engine and whatever the wrecker did not want to remove, typically the intake, fuel rail, sometimes the TB, some of the accessories and some of the brackets.... it depends who stripped what off it before you got there. If you want a FULL engine with harness, you have to ask for it. Never assume anything.

A PFF member here could not understand what I meant by "long block" on a 2.8 I was selling for almost nothing. He kept not understanding my explanations until I sold it to another member that gave me the cash first.

Remember that as well, no yard will hold on to anything for you to figure out what you want, If I'm standing behind you with cash, he will sell it to me if you don't instantly reach for your wallet and say I'll take it.

Also, I dont care how good it looks, if it's out of a car, it's a gamble engine. never pay a premium for a gamble engine unless the yard will give you a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty and a certificate of engine mileage. Otherwise to me it's a scrap engine that needs a full rebuild and I pay scrap prices. You would be surprised how good a pressure wash and a can of engine-brite can make a complete piece of crap engine look. and yes, I know of yards that do that crap, one big one in Grand Rapids I wont go to.

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Best RV, Camper, and Trailer dealer in West Michigan. http://www.cliffstrailersales.com and he's a fiero owner too!

a quick and easy way of telling is the cars condition, if the car is smased up, it was running and crashed (obviously) if it's not wrecked then probably something mechanicaly went wrong. could be catastrophic, could be minor. This is of course not 100% but it'll give you an idea when looking. wreck car probably has a good motor, good car might have a bad motor.

quote Originally posted by James Bond 007: Allso look inside the glove box for maitence receipts.If the car was unkept inside,most likley the engine was unkept.Allso factor in the milage and call the wrecking yard and ask about if or any engine warrenty.

not always true. Cars when they get at the Junkyard will get the interior trashed within days. I have seen a Beautiful G6 that had less than 6,000 miles on it that was smashed hard in the rear have the interior trashed within 5 days at the junkyard.

quote Originally posted by timgray: not always true. Cars when they get at the Junkyard will get the interior trashed within days. I have seen a Beautiful G6 that had less than 6,000 miles on it that was smashed hard in the rear have the interior trashed within 5 days at the junkyard.

Not so much a trashed interior it is more of a garbage filled interior with stains every where, ripped seats that have been that way for a long time not fresh damage, empty coffe cups and candy wrappers every where. Baiscally lookls like it was owned by some kind of pig.
Most often though I will not buy an engine out of the car where I can not look over the car, check the actual mileage and hear it running and always keep in mind they made more then one of each engine so do not settle for crap when you can do better. Dan

what can i do to tell if the bottom end of a motor is good? a shortblock basically.

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First LX9 Fiero GT, 1987 | My Fiero Fuel Economy | MPG Display for OBD I
Youtube Videos of My GT | modernize your fiero with technology!
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem
Fiero's are people too. We pay just as much attention to them, if not more than our loved ones
screw paying those bastards. im not going to become rich by paying for things.....

On a short block pop the bearing caps and see what the bearings look like. Scored and/or copper showing is not good. Check that the timing chain is tight if the cover is off. Also see if the cylinders are scored and look for oil sludge.

I always go to u-pull yards, so all the fluids are drained and a compression test would be unliklely plus potentially damaging. I've turned the engine over by hand, looked in the valve covers and then just pull it. One yard I've been to gave a 30 day money back guarantee on all parts. Another you can buy a 90 day guarantee, but only good for "store" credit. A junkyard with a 3/36K warranty would be interesting, guess that's the full service yards? Never liked their prices... Where I head to we're talking $150-250 for an engine assembly. That would be the engine and everything bolted to it except the trans.

Of course, if you're looking at a shortblock it is super easy to put new rings and bearings in before you bolt your heads on. Keep it low-buck unless you are going for a full-on rebuild.

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'88 Formula. 2800/automatic. Finally on the road!

The rest of the garage:
'92 LeBaron sedan: 3.0V6/5sp
'77 Camaro: 350/4sp
'71 Fiat Spider: 1800/5sp
'71 Mercedes 220D: 2.2L/4sp
'70 DeVille: 472ci/TH400
'62 DeVille: 390ci/Hydramatic Jetaway

I prefer buying a used engine out of a car I can start it up in. If I can buy a whole car even better. Thats what I did for my Coronet. I bought a complete, driveable Chrysler. If I buy a salvage engine, I want to start it up with a battery and can of gas. Dont even need a fuel pump, just put the gas can above it. If I cant hear it run, I wont buy...even with a guarantee that only covers giving you another engine....not any labor. A salvage engine should be complete from oil pan to intake/ fuel system. I could accept not having accessories like alternator or steering pump...but thats it.