quote Originally posted by Boostdreamer: I suppose that they could have wanted the car in drive with the e-brake on too. I don't know these things! Anyway, I took my lug nuts loose and the wheel spins fine. Took the wheel off and the rotor spins fine. Put the lug nuts back on without the wheel and tightened them down to the brake rotor. Now it is frozen again. It seems to me that the clamping pressure of the lug nuts is pressing the rotor against the brake piston. I'm going to loosen the caliper bolts, re-tighten the lug nuts, then tighten the caliper bolts again to see if there is any relief. If not, I will probably have to compress that piston again, possibly both to make them work correctly. I bled them with no lug nuts in place so I can see how the bleeding process could have allowed the pistons to move too far with nothing holding the rotors in place. Jonathan

The caliper is supposed to slide on the caliper bolts/pins. It appears that the rotor is pressed against one side of the caliper (Why the rotor wont turn bolted down, but is free unbolted) It sounds like the caliper isn’t sliding on the caliper bolts, or hanging up where the caliper comes against the knuckle. Nasty corrosion in the pin holes / sleeves?

I haven't looked at it again but I would only suspect one of the calipers, the driver's side, to have any kind of corrosion. It is the one I recently changed for an old spare one I had lying around. The passenger side has been on the car and performing correctly. You and I both agree that the lugs are causing a pressing force against the inner pad and therefore the piston. I was doing the brake bleeding by myself so maybe that was the difference in the setup. I had bled them before and I'm pretty sure I took the wheels off then and did not put the lugs on against the rotors.

Or maybe it is because I tested the e-brake cable before putting the wheels on? I'll try it again and see what happens.

Jonathan

I had two where the caliper was totally frozen to the bolt that i had to cut the caliper apart to get them off the bolt pins. - Then after cutting the bolts free they came out no problem. They were in a 'no slide' condition.

I just went through a engine swap so I had them off for that event. The driver's side had been leaking so I wanted to take care of that. But anyway, I had no problem taking them off or putting them back on. I did have plenty of other brake problems that you may have read in my other thread in the General forum "Here's a little story about my brakes".

I should be able to remove them again and start over with the piston compressor tool from O'Reilly. Once I get all that set, I'll put three lugs on and tighten them down THEN do my bleeding and e-brake test.

Jonathan