what are the issues with the 2.8l v/6 engine, i am thinking of buying a 86 gt for time trialing and i want to know if the motor is worth it. oiling issues, connecting rods, crankshaft?
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08:27 PM
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buddycraigg Member
Posts: 13620 From: kansas city, mo Registered: Jul 2002
I've found that OEM valve guides seem to start wearing out around 60,000 miles (100,000 kms). The telltale is that you get the puff of smoke on start up.
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09:56 PM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17106 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
If the engine is currently in good shape, it will be fine as long as you take care of it. Use a good synthetic motor oil, in the specified viscosity. Don't use "thick" oil, because it may be too thick to get to some places in the engine, and you'll be hastening it's demise. If the engine isn't in good shape, rebuild it or get another one. As stated above, the valve guides may leak, but that puff of smoke at startup won't affect anything -- not even emission testing. My 86 SE puffs at startup, but still passes emissions.
As stated above, the valve guides may leak, but that puff of smoke at startup won't affect anything
As they get worse, they allow oil to be sucked down the intake valves' guides on the intake stroke. The oil is what causes the smoking and it will eventually coke up your cylinder heads and foul plugs. It's not critical, but just something to keep an eye out for.
The 2.8 is actually pretty tough. If it is a stock engine with stock internals of course you aren't going to have a race engine.
I've heard about oiling problems but I haven't encountered it. The oil pump intake screen tends to collect any sludge and that diminishes your oil flow volume.
I know that if you can get it to breath, it will wind up. The trouble is the intake and exhaust manifolds.
For autocross you want some grunt and a 4 speed will turn 15's on the quarter mile. If you want more off the line, you need to upgrade the engine to at least the 3.4. either pushrod or DOHC.
I don't know that I would use a 25 year old engine for time trialing. The metal is tired and you are likely to over cook it. For your purpose a new engine might be a good idea. BTW, the 3800sc is a good replacement but you need the ECM and wiring harness.
Wanna know how to find the oiling issues with a 2.8? Hold the engine at 5500 RPM for extended periods instead of down shifting.
No that is not me... I would be severely pissed off if someone did that to my Fiero... there is no reason for holding the engine at that high of RPM as it has little torque there and the oiling system, even in a new engine, is not up to the task.
[This message has been edited by carbon (edited 02-26-2010).]
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02:38 PM
Seanpaul Member
Posts: 1320 From: Santa Rosa, North CA. Registered: Mar 2003
Yep! I am cursed with blowing rods and rod barrings on the 2.8's!
Every 2.8 I have bought lasts a few weeks then bam! Just like on the vid above. When taking the engine apart i always see hardened oil clogged in the lifter Vally preventing proper down flow of oil back to the pan.
I have a question that should go hand in hand with this thread, The other day I was trying to get up my hilly driveway covered in snow and I had my Formula in first most of the time spinning the tires but never really going over 2500-3000RPM, Killed it a few times by it getting some traction and bogging down the engine, well when I finally got up and checked the oil the next day I went from a full dipstick to half a dipstick, but no oil on the ground what is the most likely scenario? Every time I change the oil i have to add at least 2 quarts it seems one every 1000-1500miles or so but i never see any oil spots anywhere
I've driven the pants off numerous engines and I've never blown one. Regular oil, not over-revving (except the Fiat ) and driving hard.
You have to know the engine's limitations and stay within them. However, careful maintenance goes a long way. And, gentlemen, we have OLD engines in these cars. You can't expect everything.
Arn
[This message has been edited by Arns85GT (edited 02-26-2010).]