Hi all. It looks like I have to cut the bolts on my front lower control arms to get them off when I replace my front cross member. I've tried it all, and they are frozen in the bushing sleaves. Been down this road before.
My question to you is this. What size bolts should I be looking for as replacements, and can I get them somewhere like Home Depot or Canadian Tire? I will order them from the Fiero Store if necessary, but If I can get them closer to home, I would prefer that.
Thank in advance all, for this advice and the wealth of advice you have provided over the years.
J
------------------ Jay Brintnell Southern Ontario Fiero Association and the Ontario Pontiac Club
Learning is not compulsory. Neither is survival. - W. Edwards Deming
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10:15 AM
PFF
System Bot
rourke_87_T-Top Member
Posts: 1347 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jan 2009
You should be able to find them at Brafasco or somewhere locally, it's the upper control arm bolts that are the difficult ones to find. You'll be able to find class 8.8 bolts anywhere, but you should use the class 10.9 for these...
Edit: class 10.9, not grade 10.9. Grade = imperial, class = metric. Bad habit...
[This message has been edited by BtotheB (edited 02-22-2010).]
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10:49 AM
rourke_87_T-Top Member
Posts: 1347 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jan 2009
I guess it is the rear bolts giving you a hard time, I ground them down flush, and spread the mounting bracket just enough to allow the rears of the arm to come out. I just burned the remaining portion of the rear bolt and bushing out, the front bolts I found much easier to remove once the front crossmember is out. Once crossmember it is out you can hammer them one way, spray then hammer them the other way, once they start to work back and forth, spraying them each time you turn it over. a little heat helps. Just be careful not to break off those crossmember bolts. Spray lubricant into the access hole in the frame rail. I have extra used control arm bolts, control arms, crossmember etc. so if you are stuck and need anything let me know, If you see the shiny wear on the long upper bolts, then they will have a bit of play, you will see what I mean. I'm not sure I have any extra of the long upper bolts. Rob
[This message has been edited by rourke_87_T-Top (edited 02-22-2010).]
Confirmed in the P Book: M12 X 1.75 X 90mm (10.9).
If you're looking for a Canadian source, I get all my specialty bolts from a local company here in Nova Scotia: Schurmann's Industrial Supply (902) 538-3612.
Edited to add source.
[This message has been edited by Bloozberry (edited 02-22-2010).]
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11:18 AM
Eclipse Member
Posts: 2040 From: Woodstock, Ontario Canada Registered: Jun 2004
Rourke, it's the front lowers. I have the new crossmember sitting on my workbend, and the bolts are not moving, even with a severe beating from my air hammer, and various other devices :}
I have new (used, sanded and repainted) upper control arms, long bolts, lower control arms, and all ball joints, and all new bushings, and a good crossmember to put things back together. I just need to get this last piece apart first.
When I did the uppers, I was able to grind them out, but I had spare long bolts and spacers on hand.
The reason I am dong this, is that my current crossmember is worn, and the holes in the sleeves for the upper long bolts have become elongated (on both sides), so no matter how much I tighted them, there is still movement.
Rourke, if I if I do end up cutting them, I will let you know. I work in Waterloo. Do you ever get down that way?
------------------ Learning is not compulsory. Neither is survival. - W. Edwards Deming
Jay Brintnell Southern Ontario Fiero Association and the Ontario Pontiac Club
[This message has been edited by Eclipse (edited 02-22-2010).]
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12:28 PM
Larryh86GT Member
Posts: 1757 From: Near sunny Buffalo NY Registered: Jan 2008
If you are cutting them, have you figured out a saw blade yet? I just did mine...used the diamond crusted blades. Plan on 2 blades for each cut (notice I didn't say each bolt). Let me know if you need a part number (got them at Home Depot) after finding someone here on the web who used them to cut theirs out.
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08:23 PM
rourke_87_T-Top Member
Posts: 1347 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jan 2009
The problem with cutting the front bolts is, enough of the bolt is recessed to prevent the arm from coming out, because it is seized in the bushing sleeve. Then it will be difficult with nothing to hammer on. You need to pull the front crossmember anyway, the front bolts will be easier to work at once it is on the ground. I strongly suggest not cutting them until you have this on the ground. I remember your previous thread. I had to deal with this exact same situation. When it is on the ground you will be able to tilt the crossmember to allow the lubricant to soak down into the sleeve. I forgot to mention I used a 6 lb hammer and I beat the hell out of the bolts. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/100642.html
[This message has been edited by rourke_87_T-Top (edited 02-22-2010).]
Could you help me understand why you would need to pull the front cross member to remove the front lower bolts? I cut through the bolts (both ends in 2 cases) and the arm comes off? The reason I ask is that I have another Fiero that needs the same work and if pulling the whole cross member is easier th3n that's the way I'll go.
T
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05:46 AM
Eclipse Member
Posts: 2040 From: Woodstock, Ontario Canada Registered: Jun 2004
I agree, If memory serves, the head of the bolt is on the rear side, making it near impossible to pull out without undoing the crossmember.
Rourke, that said, the crossmember I am working on is laying on my workbench. It's the one that is gong back on the car.
I will be pulling hte old one off the car before dissassembling it (it has the lower arms with brand new ball joints). I am going to use a grinder with a cutting disc.
------------------ Learning is not compulsory. Neither is survival. - W. Edwards Deming
Jay Brintnell Southern Ontario Fiero Association and the Ontario Pontiac Club
You are correct...it is to the rear and if you manage to get the nut off you can't slide it out..so I cut the head off.....you don't need to pull the cross member.
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07:17 PM
Feb 24th, 2010
rourke_87_T-Top Member
Posts: 1347 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jan 2009
MichFiero, this is a very specific problem that he is dealing with, the reason I included the link. I'm not suggesting that anyone that has a problem with control arm bolts should remove the crossmember. Eclipse's front crossmember is scrap. The upper crossmember sleeve is N.F.G. Removing the crossmember is a headache but if you need to remove it anyway it is just easier to get the bolt out with the crossmember on the ground, instead of laying under the car. If the bolt doesn't move either way cutting the head off won't be enough to get the control arm out.
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11:51 AM
Eclipse Member
Posts: 2040 From: Woodstock, Ontario Canada Registered: Jun 2004