Looking for tips or the best way to bleed a dry clutch system. Line is empty and have new master and slave. I have vacuum pump available to suck in brake fluid at any point. This is a stock 88 clutch system. Thanks.

Funny, I just logged on to update my post on this, and to ask if there was a specific way to prep a dry master, lines, and slave.

I was searching the archives for the information, but I can not finds anything except the typical "gravity VS vacuum VS pressure VS traditional bleeding" that describes nothing of the processes, but everything about the pro's and con's.

Myke
88 L4

Gravity bleed.

Jack up the left front corner of the car.
You want the master higher than the slave, and the left side of the car higher than the right.
Fill up the master.
Crack open the bleeder.
Gravity will cause the fluid to fill the lines and the slave, and will purge the air.
The fluid should drain out of the master slowly enough that you can keep an eye on it, and still not spill too much out of the back.
Keep the master full. You don't want it to run dry, as that will let more air in, that you'll have to bleed out.
Once you start to get fluid out of the bleeder, tap on it a few times with a screwdriver or wrench. Since the left side of the car is higher than the right, any bubbles will run uphill to the bleeder, and out.
Once you stop getting bubbles out of the bleeder, close the valve and top off the master.

That should be all you need to do.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 02-17-2010).]

Thanks, Should I at least fill the line to make it faster?

Yes, if the line is not full gravity bleeding won't work. Power bleed it a couple of times and then do the gravity bleed (be very patient, it takes half an hour) and you should be good to go.

I have not had luck om Fiero clutches with anything except a vacuum bleeder....works like a charm and is pretty cheap at your neighborhood parts store. AND you can do it with just one person.
Jim

quote Originally posted by bowrapennocks: I have not had luck om Fiero clutches with anything except a vacuum bleeder......Jim

I have two to use. Just not sure on an empty system. I have nightmare reminders of my Getrag bleed sessions. Haven't done one in years. With the hydraulic TOB of the 6-speed in my other car is such a breeze.

quote Originally posted by Indiana87GT: Yes, if the line is not full gravity bleeding won't work.

It worked for me. When I performed the auto-to-manual swap, I had to fill a dry clutch hydraulic system. I just kept the master cylinder full while the fluid worked through the lines, then cycled the slave cylinder through a few strokes to get the last few bubbles out. It was really that easy.

I had good luck with this, but this presumed that the master cyl and lines were OK...

I replaced the slave cylinder but left it unbolted from the transmission. Cracked the bleeder valve open, then tilted the slave so that the bleeder was higher than the rest of the cylinder. This put the air bubble at the top of the slave right under the bleeder valve. Did a normal bleed routine (helper in the cabin, slowly press the pedal while I work the bleeder valve.) Two bleed cycles and I got it nicely bled right off.

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Bob T.