How do you Check the REAR Balljoints? I know how to check the front ( because is has the spring pressure pushing down on the lower control arm) the lower arm on the Reardoesn't have the spring pressure on it. so if I put a jack under the control arm , the spring pressure is pushing down On The WHEEL. How To ? Thanks

I don't understand. How can the spring put downward force on a wheel but not the control arm? The rear should have spring tension even with the rear tires off the ground unless you are using lowering springs. Interested to know.

Jonathan

the spring(on the strut,is pushing down on the spindle (wheel is attached to spindle) you could take OFF the controll arm & the spring would still be in the same place. On the front, the spring pushed down Diectly "on the lower control arm, if you disconnect the balljoint, the spring pressure will force the control arm downward ! not so in the rear.

But if I'm not mistaken, raising the front allows the front springs to completely expand to little or no force being applied. The rears are in constant compression to some degree even when detached from the strut towers. I just found out that the rear control arms have their own upward spring tension. I don't know where that comes from.

As far as testing ball joints and other suspension components, I get them mixed up. One part is tested by driving in tight circles to see if there is any noise. Another test is to try to move the wheels in a 3 - 9 oclock rotating direction. A third test in the 12 - 6 oclock direction. I'd have to do a search for the different components themselves to know which test goes with which part.

I don't think it would be wrong to let time be a factor in your descision to replace ANY ball joints. If they are original, it couldn't hurt to get new ones before something happens. I'm definately not an expert on these things, though. I think your thread title may be hurting your posibilities of responses.

Jonathan

There's two ways to check. The best way is to lift the rear end of the car up and get a prybar between the bottom of the knuckle (under the pinch bolt boss) and the lower control arm. With the the prybar, try to move the knuckle upwards with moderate force and watch for any movement in the ball joint. You're looking to see if the ball end of the stud is lifting out of the cup side of joint. If there is any vertical movement, then the joint is worn out.

A less effective way to check is to grab the tire at the 12 & 6 o'clock position with the rear of the car in the air and wiggle the tire assembly while someone else watches for any relative movement in the ball joint. Again, if you see or feel any looseness, it's time for a new joint.

A more than 20 years old car deserves to get new ball joints + tie rods and this is not the most expensive items to replace

FRONT
- Front ball joint package = 63.95$ but you must be able to press lower ball joint (not easy) in control arm
- Tie rod Package = 84.95$
If you cannot press the lower ball joint
- Front upper ball joint = 2 x 19.95$
- 2 lower control arms with new ball joints 2 x 169.95$ (this is the most expensive)
Front total cost = 148.9$ or 464.75$ if you change the lowe ball joints

REAR
- Rear Tie Rod Package 95.50$
- Rear Ball Joint Package 47.95$ (you need to drill the 3 rivets per Ball joint and install the new ones with screws that are included in the kit)
Rear total cost = 143.45$
Price are from The Fiero Store

Doing this job, you would feel a big difference (less floating).
Next step would be replace the front sway bar with a stonger one and install a rear one.

Hope this helps

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Bernard
Fiero V6 GT 1987 (Manual)

quote Originally posted by Lou6t4gto: How do you Check the REAR Balljoints? I know how to check the front ( because is has the spring pressure pushing down on the lower control arm) the lower arm on the Reardoesn't have the spring pressure on it. so if I put a jack under the control arm , the spring pressure is pushing down On The WHEEL. How To ? Thanks

Blooz is right.
The way the Fiero is designed, to check the front ball joints, you need to unload them by lifting the car by the lower control arm enough for the tire to clear the ground. This puts the weight on the spring on the lower control arm, and takes weight off both the upper and lower ball joints and upper control arm bushings.
On the rear, unload the ball joint by picking up the car any other way BUT the lower control arm. This is how you would check for worn upper strut plate too. It unloads the strut/suspension top and bottom.

Kevin

well, I'll probably just change them, I'm changing the struts anyway.( I know checking the front is like any other car) Right now the cradle is OUT, so it's no Biggie" ! I knew I couldn't just slip a bar under the tire with a jack under the control arm (like the front), just wondered if there was a "correct" inspection "procedure". Thanks