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How do you fix the power door locks so you don't have the hit the button 5-6 times?? by DeLorean00
Started on: 02-06-2010 09:43 PM
Replies: 21
Last post by: skuzzbomer on 02-07-2010 12:56 PM
DeLorean00
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Report this Post02-06-2010 09:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DeLorean00Send a Private Message to DeLorean00Direct Link to This Post
First off I used the search button but I didn't seem to find my answer.

The reason I say that is because ever Fiero I have ever owned had this problem. So it seems like this must have been discussed before.

So how do you fix the power door locks so you don't have the hit the button 5-6 times to get them to lock or unlock??

Thanks in advance!!

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bmwguru
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Report this Post02-06-2010 09:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bmwguruClick Here to visit bmwguru's HomePageSend a Private Message to bmwguruDirect Link to This Post
lean over the console and manually operate it
or you could replace the door lock actuators
Dave

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1987 GT (my toy-see above), 1987 GT 3800s/c, 1986 SE with a VW VR6, certified master technician/shop owner
www.njautobahn.com
www.hausofguru.com

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DeLorean00
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Report this Post02-06-2010 09:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DeLorean00Send a Private Message to DeLorean00Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by bmwguru:

lean over the console and manually operate it
or you could replace the door lock actuators
Dave



LoL,

I bought brand new actuators from the Fiero store, same problem.

"+" to you for the help though.

[This message has been edited by DeLorean00 (edited 02-06-2010).]

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Jefrysuko
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Report this Post02-06-2010 09:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JefrysukoSend a Private Message to JefrysukoDirect Link to This Post
There are alot of things which contribute to this problem. The one which I think is the most significant contributor is the door latch itself. I was able to clean a set once in an ultrasonic cleaner and then lubed them with graphite which made the lock mechanisms work great.
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DeLorean00
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Report this Post02-06-2010 09:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DeLorean00Send a Private Message to DeLorean00Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Jefrysuko:

There are alot of things which contribute to this problem. The one which I think is the most significant contributor is the door latch itself. I was able to clean a set once in an ultrasonic cleaner and then lubed them with graphite which made the lock mechanisms work great.


Hmm good idea. Thanks "+" to you.
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Bloozberry
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Report this Post02-06-2010 09:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryDirect Link to This Post
I agree with Jefrysuko. The original grease in the door latch mechanism is so full of dust and grit by now that it's turned pretty much into gum. Just two weeks ago I was replacing the dew wipes on a Fiero when the customer complained of the same problem with the locks. So while I had the inner door panel off, I sprayed some degreaser as best as I could with one of those little straws to dissolve the old grease. I used electronics cleaner since that's what I had handy and since it dries without leaving a residue. Once they were as good as I thought they'd get without dismantling them, I sprayed some white lithium grease on them from the inside of the door and worked the latch and the lock to get it well lubed. They work like a charm now. I'd say 90% of the time they open with the first push of the button, and the rest of the time they open with the second push.
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bmwguru
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Report this Post02-06-2010 10:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bmwguruClick Here to visit bmwguru's HomePageSend a Private Message to bmwguruDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Jefrysuko:

There are alot of things which contribute to this problem. The one which I think is the most significant contributor is the door latch itself. I was able to clean a set once in an ultrasonic cleaner and then lubed them with graphite which made the lock mechanisms work great.


I agree. I use a lubrication that is made by Wurth. It is $22.00 a can, but goes on wet and turns into a clear paste that we use for door hinges and hood hinges during our regular oil services.
Like he said, it is 20 years or grime most likely causing your issues.
Dave
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jetman
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Report this Post02-06-2010 10:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jetmanClick Here to visit jetman's HomePageSend a Private Message to jetmanDirect Link to This Post
Yes, lube the latch mechanism. Easier said than done but I've found that I can take a can of PB blaster and using the little straw, spray this down through the dew wipes with the window down at the latch mechanism. The target that I aim for is the lever that has the actuator rods attached while moving the lock repeatedly. It has taken up to a 1/4 can to free up the stubborn ones, including spraying directly into the latching mechanism. I have to do this on both Fieros before the winter, especially the 87. Granted the proper way is to take the door apart, remove the latch but that's a pain and I get lazy at times.
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Valkyrie
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Report this Post02-06-2010 10:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ValkyrieSend a Private Message to ValkyrieDirect Link to This Post
Hmmm.. Just curious, are there no "more powerful" actuators that could be swapped in?
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IMSA GT
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Report this Post02-06-2010 10:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IMSA GTSend a Private Message to IMSA GTDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Valkyrie:

Hmmm.. Just curious, are there no "more powerful" actuators that could be swapped in?


I re-bent the rods slightly and also cleaned and greased the latch and moving parts. The lock now sounds like a gunshot it is so smooth.
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bmwguru
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Report this Post02-06-2010 10:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bmwguruClick Here to visit bmwguru's HomePageSend a Private Message to bmwguruDirect Link to This Post
just don't use a MINI Cooper's
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Valkyrie
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Report this Post02-06-2010 10:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ValkyrieSend a Private Message to ValkyrieDirect Link to This Post
Why's that? Are Cooper actuators no better?
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bmwguru
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Report this Post02-06-2010 10:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bmwguruClick Here to visit bmwguru's HomePageSend a Private Message to bmwguruDirect Link to This Post
I change the lock/actuator in a Cooper more often that I change the oil in them
Dave
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Report this Post02-06-2010 10:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TopNotchClick Here to visit TopNotch's HomePageSend a Private Message to TopNotchDirect Link to This Post
Get some aftermarket generic actuators and use them. They are WAY stronger than the stock ones, and can be had for 10 bucks or less.
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02greens10
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Report this Post02-06-2010 11:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 02greens10Send a Private Message to 02greens10Direct Link to This Post
As others said spray some wd-40 and then some oil on the door latch. Get it coated good. Then if the interior panel is off grease the rod where it touches anything. It slides in a plastic clip, so grease that. Grease the door latch also while you are in there. I had 2 of my cars have the rods for the door and lock totally rubbing, so I did a slight bend to make then not touch.

On the actuator I coated that with a thick oil, especially on the spring that operates it. It has alot of connections so the less friction the better. You would understand if you looked in there, and if you don't oil anything that is a rod and anywhere it touches, and I guarantee it will work.
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Report this Post02-07-2010 08:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
Yep, you need to pull off both interior door panels and give all the rods and linkages a good cleaning, then regrease them. The original turns to pretty much peanut butter after years. While inside, also clean up and lube the window tracks and slides. Everything will work like new.
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johnyrottin
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Report this Post02-07-2010 08:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for johnyrottinSend a Private Message to johnyrottinDirect Link to This Post
H E L L...if Bloozberry says to do it, i'm doing it!
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Bloozberry
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Report this Post02-07-2010 09:22 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryDirect Link to This Post
LOL... I like your sense of humour.
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tomsablon
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Report this Post02-07-2010 09:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tomsablonSend a Private Message to tomsablonDirect Link to This Post
yup, just time .took my doors apart ,got access to the moving parts .cleaned with wd,and (well targeted) brake cleaner . then used spray silicone first and a good coating of spray lithium(white )grease .hint. while your cleaning them work them back and forth and focus on the external latches .mine snap !!!!!!!!!!!! back and forth now
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johnyrottin
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Report this Post02-07-2010 10:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for johnyrottinSend a Private Message to johnyrottinDirect Link to This Post
This is going to be my next weekend project along with replacing my trun signal stalk. Kind of nervous about "just pulling" the stalk out.

[This message has been edited by johnyrottin (edited 02-07-2010).]

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Bloozberry
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Report this Post02-07-2010 11:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryDirect Link to This Post
It comes out with just a quick snap... here's what one that I replaced about a month ago looked like up close (notice the reason for replacing it)

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skuzzbomer
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Report this Post02-07-2010 12:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for skuzzbomerSend a Private Message to skuzzbomerDirect Link to This Post
I saved this link a good while ago... I have no idea if anyone has used this particular model on their Fiero, but it can at least give you an idea of prices for replacement parts.

http://www.allelectronics.c...CK-ACTUATOR/-/1.html
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